Archive for April, 2006

Colours, Shapes and Sizes Make for Different Types of Goldfish

Sunday, April 30th, 2006

The types of goldfish vary, and the characteristics that make this diversity evident are recognized in their scale colouring, the shape and size of the goldfish, the look of their tails, and of course, by their different names. Nevertheless, regardless of how one goldfish may look, or if it has a different title from the next, all goldfish come from the same family, originating from the gibel carp found in the streams of China.

The only reason why there are so many unique looking types of goldfish is because they have been purposely bread to look different.

Why? It may or may not come as a surprise to you but appearance matters to goldfish enthusiasts, and may be something you will want to consider yourself when looking at the types of goldfish that are available on the market.

For instance, did you know that goldfish are available in more colours than just gold? In fact, there are goldfish that are coloured yellow, red, bronze, blue and even black! What’s more is there are some goldfish that have a mixture of colours in their scales. However, although goldfish scales can come in more than one shade, hue, or splash of colour, many types of goldfish are also categorized by their tails.

There are four types of goldfish tail categories that you can consider when selecting your goldfish. The four categories include the single tailed, double tailed, double tailed without dorsal fin, and the double tailed with dorsal fin. While each type of goldfish in these categories has differences within their own groups based on their colour, body and fin size, the one feature which remains constant within their grouping is their shape. Take for example the single tailed goldfish, which has three goldfish within its category: Comets, Commons and Shubunkins. Although each of these types of goldfish has a slender body shape, Comets generally have gold scales and a long single fin tail, whereas the Shubunkins is bigger in size, and has calico coloured (a mix of violet, orange red and black) scales.

Aside from these noted differences, you will discover that the single tailed goldfish, as well as the double tailed goldfish, share the same slender body shape characteristic; while both the double tailed goldfish with the dorsal fin and those without, feature an egg shaped body. Moreover, the double tailed with the dorsal fin, and those double tailed without the dorsal fin are unique types of goldfish that have exotic characteristics. Some of these characteristics include a wen (head growth) seen in the Oranda and Pearlscale goldfish, and telescope eyes, as seen in the Telescope and Moors goldfish.

As you can see, there are many aspects to consider when it comes to choosing from the different available types of goldfish. Just remember, depending on the fish you want, certain care methods will be required that are based on different characteristics for each of the goldfish types.

Can’t Get Your Dog To Get Up And Come To You? Read This

Saturday, April 29th, 2006

I was walking outside to open the front gate in front of my complex and saw two guys training a beautiful large German Shepherd dog, in front of my neighbor’s house.

They were both professional dog trainers that my neighbor had apparently hired to come by and train his dog when he’s at work.

I introduced myself and proceeded to watch.

See, the funny thing about many dog trainers is that they have an ego, and their ego often prevents them from accepting help from people who haven’t already demonstrated superior skill. Perhaps not a bad policy.

But whatever.

Anyway… the first fellow was standing and talking with me, and out of the corner of my eye I was watching the second fellow work with the dog.

They’d taught the dog to hold a “down-stay.” But the problem was, they hadn’t successfully taught the dog what “come” means, and that it’s okay to get up from the “down-stay” when the handler calls you to come.

The problem was, the second fellow was calling the dog to come, and while he was doing it, he was inadvertently bending forward and clapping his hands. And then he’d move a little closer to the dog—all the while bending forward.

The dog didn’t move.

“Come, Enzo. Come, Enzo. Come on, come on…”

The dog still didn’t move.

So, I asked the first fellow if it would be alright if I gave his assistant a tip that I knew would help to communicate with the dog that it was alright to get up and come to the handler.

I told him—the same thing I’d written about in my book (which you can read about at: http://www.dogproblems.com/newvideos.htm ) — that when the dog doesn’t understand this command, you need to be using your body language to LEAN BACK… and even walk backwards, away from the dog. This body language will more easily communicate to the dog what you want him to do. (Setting him up for success).

But the trainer was stubborn and wanted to do it his way.

“Pshah… I know what I’m doing. I’m a professional,” he said as he waved his hand in my face.

I stood there and grinned, knowing exactly what would continue to happen.

“Come, Enzo. Come, Enzo. Come on, come on…” he continued.

The dog still didn’t move.

Finally, in frustration… he looked in my direction, then back at the dog—and did exactly as I told him to do—leaned backwards, started walking backwards away from the dog—and called his name.

Enzo immediately understood and happily galloped over to the handler.

So, the next time somebody tries to tell you that there aren’t any “Secrets” … just watch what they’re doing and if they’re stubborn— just grin and DON’T TELL THEM ABOUT MY BOOK, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!”

Because even many so-called “professional dog trainers” don’t know everything.

Dog Crate Buyers Guide

Friday, April 28th, 2006

When dogs used to live in the wild, they needed a bolt hole for their own protection and peach of mind.

Throughout the years even though many breeds of dogs have been domesticated, they are still den animals and have a strong natural instinct to seek out a small, cosy place to rest for shelter and security. It is a place to make your dog or puppy feel safe, something to protect its back and yet still allows it to look around.

When used properly, crates are the fastest and most humane method of housebreaking dogs. Training a dog to use a crate encourages him to keep its home “clean” and never want to eliminate in its own bed. This can really aid toilet-training. How it works is that a crate acts on a dog’s instinct to keep its den clean and unsoiled.

Keeping your dog in a crate teaches him to “hold it” until he can go in an appropriate place, which helps your puppy develop his bladder control. A crate also promotes happiness in your dog as it feels secure and safe in its own “home”, therefore reducing behavioural problems such as excessive barking and chewing. A crate can also help break bad habits that improperly trained dogs may have developed over the years.

For older dogs, a crate functions as a “bedroom” where they can relax and escape the hustle and bustle of kids, other pets, and everyday family life.

Fabric, Metal or Plastic?

A lightweight fabric soft dog crate is suitable for crate-trained dogs. However they are not suitable for chewers, aggressive or nervous dogs. Plastic kennels are good for dogs that travel a lot and are generally the only method of containment accepted by airlines. Metal wire dog crates are ideal for home use.

They generally provide more room for the dog. They’re also sturdier, so should be able to stand up to your dog’s movement or activity and be able to last as your dog’s permanent “home”.

Whatever the make and design of the crate model, it should allow for proper ventilation and visibility, is durable and stable, has secure slide bolt latches for your dog’s safety, preferably has 2 doors for ease of access, can be folded or set up quickly especially for travel purposes and are well-coated (eg zinc or hard epoxy) for easier cleaning and anti-rust.

What size?

There is no correct size of dog crate for any particular breed. It depends on the size of your dog, the nature of each individual dog, and the amount of space you feel should be sufficient to allow your dog to rest and sleep in it comfortably and safely.

Your dog should be able to stand up straight legs inside the crate, turn around, and lie down in comfort. If the crate is too big, your puppy or dog will have enough room to soil one side and sleep on the other, which defeats the purpose of the crate.

Try to get a crate roomy enough to accommodate your dog’s full-grown size and get a divider panel. This way, you can keep using the same crate and have it “grow” along with your dog without upgrading the size several times.

What type of crate accessories can you get?

Toys and treats - always ensure that you have the appropriate toys and treats in the crate to keep your dog occupied and prevent your teething puppy from chewing on the crate’s metal bars or plastic panels.

Crate bedding - It is also important to purchase crate bedding for warmth and a crate cover is great for reducing the number of outside distractions your dog sees, which can reduce barking and stress in the crate.

Crate pad - a crate pad is more comfortable than the crate’s plastic pan.

A protection bumper - a bumper helps protect your puppy from injuries caused by chewing or leaning against the crate’s metal bars. This is also suitable for highly active dogs which tend to move around a lot in the crate.

Are You Ready To Breed Your Yorkshire Terrier?

Thursday, April 27th, 2006

The reported sales for Yorkshire Terriers is phenomenal. Over the past few years, the popularity of this breed as a family pet and as the dog to breed has seen tremendous growth. In fact, the requests for adorable Yorkie puppies is greater than the supply. This fact has many Yorkie owners wondering if they should look into the possibility of breeding their pet.

While breeding Yorkshire Terriers is a worthy goal, it is not for everybody or every dog. There are many things that should be considered before making the decision to breed your Yorkshire Terrier, the least of which regards whether or not you have the time and space to devote to breeding the energetic Yorkshire Terrier.

Many experts reserve the right to breed dogs to the professional breeder, and they will discourage anyone who has a idea to breed Yorkies from doing so. Though this may sound manipulative, there are good reasons why they discourage casual breeding. While I believe that there are many people who should not even consider breeding their Yorkie, I also feel that there are many intelligent people that can incorporate breeding into their lifestyle responsibly. To find out which category you fall into, consider the following points.

Pedigreed and registered doesn’t equal breeding material

Yes, a pedigree and registration are requirements before breeding any purebred dog, but their presence does not mean that you have a Yorkie worthy of breeding. Let me explain. The AKC and other registry organizations certify pedigrees and registrations that guarantee the authenticity of your pet as a purebred Yorkie; they do not certify quality. What this means is that an AKC registered Yorkie can have certain traits that are undesirable for breeding such as congenital health defects which are not discernable to the eye and undesirable behavioral traits, which can become more pronounced in the dog’s offspring.

Even breeders that possess dogs with Yorkie bloodlines of the highest quality do not breed all of their puppies. In fact, only a very select few ever get used for breeding. The ones that do are carefully evaluated for health quality, behavioral traits and breed standards in an attempt to continually improve the quality of the Yorkie breed. Randomly breeding registered Yorkies does the exact opposite, often resulting in sickly and below-standard puppies.

Breeding Yorkies is not an income opportunity

Breeding Yorkies for monetary gain is not a good reason to pursue breeding this exceptional breed. First, finding a bitch and sire of high enough quality to breed can be an expensive undertaking. Caring for your breeders and puppies until they are old enough to be sold can also be very expensive.

Think about it this way. The average Yorkshire Terrier litter is from one to four puppies. Now, you may be able to sell these puppies for $1,000 to $1,500, but Yorkies require veterinary attention and breeder care for the first three months of their life. Add on to this the cost of a possible Cesarean section and the fact that you cannot whelp more than one litter per dam per year, and you may find yourself in the hole rather than coming out ahead.

Time and dedication

It is estimated that the average breeder spends 120 hours per month caring for their Yorkies and pups. This 120 hours cannot be scheduled around other obligations; other obligations must be scheduled around your puppies. The small size of Yorkie puppies make them extremely susceptible to hypoglycemia and instant death during the first three months of life if they are not cared for properly. So, having a litter of Yorkies pretty much takes a considerable chunk of time and independence from your life.

And it doesn’t end when they are three months old. A good breeder will carefully screen and interview all potential buyers to ensure that their puppies get placed in only the best homes. They will also offer support to the puppy’s new family to make sure that they are properly prepared to care for the Yorkie, and they will stay available to help out any purchasers in need, even if it means accepting the puppy or full-grown Yorkie back into their home if problems arise.

If you are still not deterred after considering all of these breeding realities, you may just have what it takes to successfully breed Yorkshire Terriers. The next step is to find out all you can about Yorkies and how to breed them. The AKC is a great place to start. Good luck!

Discount Pet Stores

Wednesday, April 26th, 2006

Most human beings are animal lovers. They like to keep animals as pets for companionship and happiness. These pets deserve the best care just as anyone else in the family. Because of their love for pets, they are always looking for little things for their favorite animals.

The pet service and merchandise industry has grown dramatically in this age of pampered pets. Thus a large number of pet stores have come up all over. There are a number of pet products and supplies available in the market today. Pet lovers can buy these products from discount pet stores.

Low priced items available for pets from discount pet stores or shops are endless. Most of the discount pet stores have a fairly decent size and they carry everyday pet items and also special items. These stores stock more items than regular department stores or retail stores that sell pet products.

There are a wide range of discount pet stores to choose from. Both online and regular discount pet stores offer a range of items for the pets that you love. The online pet discount stores carry a wide range of product for your type of pet. These discount pet stores are very useful for checking out a wide range of pet items. Online stores are handy as they are easy to order from these stores

Most of the discount pet stores are pet friendly. They are all designed to provide comfort to the pet owner while he is buying things for his pet. Some pet discount stores offer countless services in addition to their regular services. They include grooming services, veterinary services and pet photography. Community service such as obedience classes, pet adoption clinics and lectures on pet care techniques are also offered.

A Horse Course, of Course, for Rescue Workers

Tuesday, April 25th, 2006

While trying to contain a tragic accident site on Long Island last month where a horse trailers became disconnected from its truck, rescue workers felt woefully inadequate trying to handle the injured and dying horses. Clearly, they had no experience with the large animals, and some were moved to tears when explaining how helpless they felt.

To remedy such situations and to prepare rescue workers for handling horses in emergency situations, the Connecticut Horse Council initiated the Horse911 project—a series of workshops geared toward teaching Connecticut’s firefighters about basic horse-handling techniques while promoting fire prevention and preparedness among barn owners.

According to a recent article in Connecticut’s Journal Enquirer, more than 70 firefighters from six Connecticut firehouses attended a recent three-hour workshop on saving horses from barn fires. With the help of accomplished horsepeople, firefighters learned how to approach, halter and lead nervous horses amid the noise and bright lights emanating from the fire trucks.

Facilitators described horse behavior and anatomy so that firefighters would have an understanding about how a horse is affected by smoke inhalation or in its reluctance to flee a burning barn. The workshop facilitators hope that the training will help firefighters feel comfortable handling horses in situations other than barn fires such as loose horses or in the event of a trailer accident.

The Horse911 project is conducted in partnership with the Connecticut Horse Council, the Career Fire Chief’s Association, the Connecticut State Fire Academy and the Connecticut Animal Response Team. In addition to providing firefighter training, the Connecticut Horse Council also offers seminars in fire prevention and emergency response for horse and barn owners. At the request of a barn owner, the council can also arrange for an area fire chief’s inspection of a local barn to further fire prevention safety procedures and practices.

The Connecticut Horse Council began in 1969 to defeat proposed legislation that would have banned the use of bits and spurs. Since then, the group has been involved in all areas relevant to horse industries in Connecticut. The council’s motto is “Horsemen United in Leadership, Service and Education.”

Considering the spate of trailer and loose horse accidents across the nation, Connecticut has the right idea in getting its area firefighters more horse savvy. One would hope that more horse associations across the nation find example in Connecticut’s Horse Council’s initiatives.

Dog Training Collar Basics

Monday, April 24th, 2006

Dog training collars can be really helpful for many dog owners. There are various different styles to choose from and they are all there to help you to control your dog.

The Main Features of a Dog Training Collar

As mentioned, each different dog-training collar is different from the next. There are some that are designed to fit around the dog’s noses, which control the direction of the dog. They are generally attached to the lead and every time the dog is pulling or you need to reprimand the dog for something, a quick, sharp yet gentle tug on the lead will turn your dogs head towards you, shocking them into doing what you want them to do. An example of this includes:

• The Canny Collar – A really good collar that has a ‘pressure and release’ system. It comes in seven different sizes so it will fit all breeds of dog snugly.

Others are less humane and a lot of critics say they are cruel. These include electric shock collars. Electric shock collars do exactly as they are called - they give the dog an electric shock whenever they do something wrong. Obviously this is really cruel and as safe as most companies say they are, they should never be used over other types of dog training collars. Unfortunately, there are a lot of collars like these on the market including:

• Petsafe Yard and Park Trainer – The collar comes with a handheld device for the owner. When your dog is wearing the collar, all you have to do is push the button on the handheld device and it will send a shock to your dog up to 400 yards away.

Again, electronic collars really should not be used at all and they can be extremely cruel!

There are also collars that are fitted with devices that aim to stop them barking. These include the:

• Static anti-bark collar – This collar has a built in on/off system that you can control. It also has a built in system which detects the vibrations within the dogs bark and it can determine whether the dog is barking or whether it has suffered a knock or a scratch.

The Cost and the Techniques Involved

If you choose a collar that is similar to the Canny Collar, you can expect to pay up to $30. However, for the electronic collars you can end up paying around $280! It all depends upon the size of your dog, what you want the collar for and how far you want the device to be able to reach.

The best way to use a collar is only when the dog is doing something you do not want them to do. They shouldn’t be used too frequently, as, although the shock may be unpleasant for them, they tend to get used to it and so will ignore what you want them to do. Also, always be quick to reward the dog when they have done something correctly. As long as you are gentle yet firm, the dog should learn quite quickly what is expected of them.

There are some books out there that can help you find the right techniques to help you use the dog training collars more effectively. So it is worth checking out your local library or even picking one up online.

Overall, dog-training collars can be really effective if used properly. You just have to do your research first!

How To Train A Puppy In 3 Easy Steps

Sunday, April 23rd, 2006

Think about how to train a puppy first and foremost if you bring a new puppy into your home. She’s not a toy, so don’t treat her like one. Make your new puppy welcome. Her new home will have strange sounds and smells, which she will have to get used to. This takes time. Here are my 3 easy steps on how to train a puppy with the least possible hassle.

1. Establish the basics first. Decide on her diet, the brand for dogfood she will have. You may have to change this, but choose carefully and it will probably be alright. Decide on where her bed is going to be. Don’t change this location if possible. This is her comfort place, just like your bed is to you, so choose a quiet, peaceful corner that she can feel is hers.

2. Use the same words or short phrases for the same expected results. For example, “go potty” for her toilet, and then always take her to the same spot in the garden, and “here’s dinner” for her main daily meal. Repetition in the same tone of voice, followed by the same action, is one of the keys to getting the same result with a young dog.

3. Do not heavily chastise your puppy, or shout at her, regardless of how bad a mess she has made, or how badly chewed the carpet is. Show your displeasure by being cool towards her. Frown and say little without any cuddles. This, coupled with lots of hugs and happy words when she does something right, will usually get the message across to her.

Don’t worry about how to train a puppy. It’s not rocket science. Just use common sense, and if you’re stuck, you can get an expert book guide to help you. There’s plenty of excellent ones available. Above all, have fun — your puppy deserves it!

Dog Training: Pro Versus Self-Trained, Which is Best

Saturday, April 22nd, 2006

Now that you have your new pooch, you need to train him. Yes you do, don’t argue with me. He’s not a human. He doesn’t get to do whatever he wants to do. He can’t poop where he feels like pooping. He can’t chew up whatever he wants. He needs to be trained, for your happiness and his. But should you do it yourself or should you have him professionally trained? The answer really depends on how much time you are willing to invest.

No matter the training (protection, behavior, search and rescue, tricks), you will invest a LOT of time training your pup…even if you have a professional do the training. If you have a professional train your dog, you will still have to follow up after he finishes basic training. You have to be consistent. You have to have patience. And you have to know what you’re doing, which is the mistake a lot of first-time dog owners make. They equate loving a new puppy with knowing how to take of and train a new pup. That’s where they make their first mistake.

If you’re going to train the dog yourself, there are a few basic commands every dog should know regardless of what type of training you give your new best friend. If Fido knows these commands and no other, and you work with him every day, he will be a well-behaved dog.

  • Come – this is the most important command your dog should understand (next to, “Don’t poop there!”). If Fido won’t come to you when called, he’s not an obedient dog.
  • Sit – Another important command is “Sit.” A dog that will sit when commanded is under the direct control of the owner.
  • Stay – “Stay” is often used in conjunction with “Sit.”
  • Down – All dogs need to know what it means when their master says “Down.” “Down” is often used for the over excitable pup who’s constantly jumping on people.
  • Go to bed – especially as pups, dogs tend to sleep when they want to. But if you don’t get your dog used to sleeping when you want him to sleep, you’ll deal with the “terrible twos” his entire life. If he knows what “Go to bed” means, he’ll sleep when you want him to. And if you’re smart, that will be when you go to sleep.
  • Drop it – “Drop it” is one of the most useful commands for your dog to know. Dogs tend to pick up everything in their mouths…remote controls, hats, sunglasses, little children. If you dog understands “Drop it,” you can make him drop your little brother whenever he’s using him as a chew toy.
  • Leave it and Take it – “Leave it” and “Take it” are used to teach dogs to pick up after themselves. Both are hard to teach, but very useful when you need a beer out of the fridge.
  • Heel – “Heel,” also “Close” or “By me,” is used to keep a dog right at the handler’s leg whether standing still or walking.
  • Okay – and “Okay” is your dog’s favorite command. Okay releases the dog from sit, stay, heel and so forth. “Okay” is also used to release the dog from training and lets him begin his favorite part of the day…playtime.

    But most people want even more training for their dogs, whether it is for protection, sport or fun. For most advanced training, especially if you are a first-time dog owner, it’s best to let a professional handle it. They have the equipment, they have the know-how and they have the time. Most advanced training, especially personal protection training, requires spending hours upon hours with your dog on a daily basis. And let’s face it, most of us don’t have that kind of time. But just remember, no matter what kind of training you decide on, simple behavior training, protection, search and rescue or tricks, you will have to reinforce the training on a daily basis. If you’re not willing to do this, you won’t be a very happy owner…and it will be your fault. As corny as it sounds, a well trained dog equals a happy dog.

  • Let’s Talk About Vaccines - Everyone Else Is!

    Friday, April 21st, 2006

    There is no universal protocol for canine vaccination schedules. Many vets recommend more vaccinations than most dogs require to be protected from contagious diseases. A lot of vets use the vaccination schedule they receive with the vaccinations they buy from drug companies. Vets are now realizing to trust vaccine makers may not be the best thing to do. Vaccine makers are in the business of selling vaccines.

    There are a number of things pet owners can do to make sure their dogs are protected against contagious diseases without overvaccinating. You need to learn about the diseases the vaccines defend your dog against. Before you allow your vet to vaccinated, ask your vet about the disease it prevents. What is its incidence? How is it transmitted? Is it more prevalent in your particular area? Ask your vet is the disease treatable, and if so, how many dogs recover? If you find out the disease kills many dogs who get it and the virus is everywhere, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease. If you find out a particular disease is very prevalent in your area, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease in addition to other appropriate vaccines.

    A list of vaccines for dogs that most experts agree puppies and dogs should be protected against - diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal would include:

    Canine Parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2)

    Canine distemper virus (CDV)

    Canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2)

    Rabies virus (RV)

    If you are concerned about overvaccination be sure to have your puppies vaccinated against distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, not before six weeks, and at least once after the age of 12 weeks, and a rabies vaccine given after 16 weeks. About two weeks after the last vaccination with distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, ask for a vaccine titer test to see if your puppy has been successfully immunized.

    Other vaccine tips you need to remember:

    Use vaccine titer tests to see if your dog is adequately immunized against the diseases that most experts aggree puppies and dogs should be protected against. These are diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal.

    Don’t use low-cost clinics for your dog’s vaccinations (unless the clinic is operated by a professional you know and trust). Instead make a relationship with a vet who will take time with you, who will ask your about your dog’s health history, answer your questions about the benefits and risks of various vaccines and recommend an individualized vaccination schedule for your dog that takes into consideration his lifestyle and environment.

    Take your dog to the vet at least once a year.

    Do not vaccinate dogs who suffer from chronic or acute health problems, running a high temperaturem, or who have a history of vaccine reactions. Do not vacciante elderly dogs just because if your dog has been vaccinated many times in the younger years, he is probably immunized against disease as much as he can be.