Pet Information

Coming to terms with one’s own mortality is something we all have to face at one time or another during our lives. I’ve had my own share of introspective moments on life, as I have seen the decline of elderly relatives’ health, and experienced the aches and pains associated with getting on in years (and I’m only 36-years-old). The aging process forces us to make adjustments to cater to surfacing limitations, whether we like to embrace them or not.

Our pets zip through their lifecycles much faster than we do, and that point when we need to start making special concessions for them can sneak up without warning. I am currently the proud owner of three fuzzy felines, two of which are in the midst of their twilight years. Göst (15-years-old) and Betty (10-years-old) may revisit moments of their youth by the hyperactiveness that is Otis (8-months-old), but I can see the aging effects when compared to the young spitfire. About a year ago, I started doing things a bit differently to make life easier for them, but it has since spiraled into me spoiling them to the point that they have got to think they hit the kitty lottery by having me for a father.

The first step to easing them into the geriatric state was a food adjustment. I started giving them soft food twice a day, mainly for two reasons: it’s easier on the brittle teeth, and the love it, which means that it will be eaten and they will maintain their weight. Of course, none of this really applies to Otis at this point, so he gets to enjoy the benefit of having older siblings.

Lately, Göst has been getting thinner despite the fact that he is eating regularly and still has a hearty appetite (he’s the first one to come begging for the afternoon snack). Having seen the decline of a skinny cat last year, I’m not pulling any punches and giving him just about anything he wants in order to keep his weight up. This means lots of extra kitty treats and saucers of cream when the other two are not looking. He has already surpassed the 12-year life expectancy for his breed (Scottish Fold), and I’d like to keep him around a bit longer, no matter what it takes.

Betty seems to be going through some type of kitty menopause, as she has got a new fire in her belly and an attitude that rivals the most ornery teenager. She will hiss at the other two if they even look at her funny, let alone dare to walk up next to her. I know this has a lot to do with the kitten, but her hissing is getting a bit out of control. She seems to have rubbed her throat raw and tends to go into hairball-like coughing fits at least once a week. I coddle her to no end, letting her know that she is very loved, despite the fact that she thinks I brought in Otis to torture her. We have our special alone time when I watch television in my recliner chair, which I believe she looks forward to every day.

I’ve also noticed that Göst has been derelict in his self-cleaning duties. As an all-white cat, he has always been very pristine and anal about looking his best, but lately he has been a little nappy-looking. It appears that he spends more time bathing the kitten than himself (and the kitten is not so great at reciprocating the favor). I brush him regularly, and that does a good job of picking up the loose hair, but I needed a little something extra. In comes the ionizing brush my mother sent me! I won’t pretend to fully understand the mechanics (or is it physics?) of ions, but it does seem to be working well. Göst and Betty have silkier coats and totally enjoy the feeling of being groomed (Otis has not gotten to experience the new brush just yet, as he wants to chew on it any time it gets close to him).

To further cater to the needs of my kitties, I purchased a mini staircase to facilitate the processes of getting on to my bed (their favorite napping destination). I figured this was a necessity, as they were have more difficulty with the jump. A couple of years ago I got a new bed, which included a pillow-top mattress. This mattress is about an inch taller than my old one, so that presented another hurdle (no pun intended) for the elderly twosome. Throw in the bulkiness of a down comforter, and it became quite the daunting task, but they managed.

Over the past couple of months I noticed that something needed to be done to help them out. Betty would make it about three-quarters up, and then claw her way to the top as if she were scrambling for safety at the edge of a cliff – kind of funny to watch, but not fun for her to go through (nor is it good for the condition of my mattress and bedding). Göst would sit on the floor and try to gauge the trajectory and angle of the jump, contemplating whether or not he could actually get up there. It’s a pretty pathetic thing to witness, as I can see the frustration in his eyes when he thinks he cannot make it. Sometimes he makes the effort, while other times he simply walks away feeling dejected rather than repositioning himself for an attempt. They took to the stairs almost immediately, and have since grown quite accustomed to it… even Otis finds pleasure in it, though he mostly uses it as a jungle gym or a launching pad for attack.

If I had to choose one special thing I do for the cats that might be deemed to be excessive, I would probably have to say it’s that I build fires for them in the winter. When they hear me rattling around the fireplace, they come running knowing that an intense heat-absorbing nap is in store. Of course, I get the benefit of a warm apartment when I have a fire, but I mostly do it because I know the kitties love it, and it’s so damn cute to see them sprawled out in front of it, oblivious to the world around them.

In this article, we hope to share with you the many aspects that this important subject has to offer. Deciding to get a pet and keeping it indoors will take a lot of responsibility. Chores such as feeding the animal or giving it a bath are just one of the few things the owner will have to do but there is more. Since these pets are not yet trained how to behave, the person will have to devote a lot of time and effort to make this happen.

The best time to train animals especially if one decides to keep it indoors is when it is still young and having kittens in the house is no exception. The good news about raising a cat is that it is easier to teach and maintain, unlike dogs that may require some assistance in a school.

The first thing that a person needs to know before getting a cat is learning about its behaviors. In general, these animals are very affectionate and are well behaved. When one notices certain changes in the mood of the cat, there is usually something wrong that can be corrected once the cause has been determined.

Here are some tips that can help a person train a kitten at home;

1. Kittens need exercise. If this is not done in the form of toys for the animal to play with, it will become restless and could do damage to your home.

2. Since kittens are not yet toilet trained, it is best to start by teaching it what to do with a litter box. The litter box should be big enough for the pet to enter and move around in. By adding newspaper and perhaps carpet, the animal will soon learn where to release waste when it is time.

3. The claws of kittens are not that sharp yet compared to older cats. So that these creatures will not damage the furniture in the future, it is best to get a scratching pad and teaching it that this is the proper place to scratch.

Praising the kitten for doing a good job and feeding it as a reward will help in teaching the kitten how to behave inside the house. The owner should not shout or hit the kitten since this will make the animal fear the person and no amount of effort in teaching it will work after that experience.

Kittens are lovable animals and by spending some time daily with them and with a little patience, this will all pay off as one can finally see that the animal has been finally house trained. Having this information handy will help you a great deal the next time you find yourself in need of it.

You’ve been to every local fish store in your area. You’ve spent hours online looking at Discus galleries. You’ve started thinking of things you can sell to pay for the Discus fish and aquarium set up. You’ve put your couch in the garage to make room for the aquarium. It sounds like you’ve been bitten by the Discus bug. Now, how do you get started?

There are as many opinions on how to properly raise Discus as there are websites devoted to them. You will find debates over planted tank vs. bare bottom, tap water or RO, what to feed them, how often to change the water and how much, it goes on and on. These debates contribute to making Discus keeping fun or a real pain. It really depends on your likes and dislikes. If you enjoy the excitement and challenge of learning something new and are able to successfully translate many different opinions into “what works best for you”, then keeping Discus will be a fun rewarding undertaking which you can enjoy for years to come. With that being said, the following are some guidelines to what I’ve learned over the years and what works best for me in setting up a new Discus aquarium.

Equipment

In choosing the tank, start with a minimum tank size of 50 gallons. Make sure you have a suitable place to set up your aquarium. You will want a very sturdy support for your tank which you will position in a location that doesn’t receive direct sunlight. The filtration system will be made up of two extra large sponge filters run by an air pump along with an external box filter such as an Aqua Clear properly rated for your tank size and containing a pre-filter sponge on the intake tube. You will need a heater with a ratio of 5watts/gallon, meaning a tank size of 50 gallons would require a 250 watt heater. The tank needs to be covered and there are hood options available when you purchase your tank. You will want one with a lighting strip as well as a cover for the tank. In a pinch you can always pick up a piece of Plexiglass from your local hardware store and cut it to fit. In order to keep the tank clean and maintained, you will need a siphon hose, a five gallon bucket and a clean utility sponge.

Preparing for Your Discus’ Arrival

You will want to have your aquarium cycled before adding your Discus. This means that the beneficial bacteria has been established in your filtration. There are many methods of cycling your tank so be sure to do your research and choose the option that fits for you. It is a very important step and is absolutely necessary. Putting your new Discus in a tank that hasn’t been cycled is a death sentence for the fish.

Buying Your Discus Fish

An absolute must is starting with healthy Discus. If you are lucky enough to have a reputable breeder in your area you are ahead of the game. If not, mail order is also an exciting option. There’s a real rush and excitement to having Discus delivered to your front door. Make sure to research any online vendor you may want to order from. There are some great breeders out there with a great selection. On the downside shipping usually runs from $50-$75 depending on the service. If mail order isn’t an option and you are left with your local fish store you’ll need to take some precautions and do your best to pick out healthy fish. If possible try to find a shop that specializes in higher end tropical fish and avoid chain stores. Find out what the shop’s quarantine and guarantee policies are. Ask them how long the Discus should be quarantined once you get them home. If their answer is “you don’t need to”, this is a major red flag. Ask questions to get a feel for how well they support and care for their product.

So, what does a healthy Discus look like?

Here a some things to look for in the Discus you buy:

When you walk by the tank, the fish should be active and come up to greet you. Avoid fish that are dark, hiding or hanging behind uplift tubes. The water in the tank and the tank itself should look clear and clean. If there are dead fish in the tank keep walking. Now, (if you haven’t left the store) look at the fish, they should have a full body that doesn’t look sunken and is free of scrapes, bumps, visible injuries and or parasites. The body shape should have a nice round appearance void of bent, stubbed tails and flat foreheads. Check the skin and make sure it doesn’t have a dull, matte, or slimy look to it. The fins should look healthy and not have a cottony or milky appearance. The fins should be intact with no white specs or splits and not be clamped to the body. The Discus should be using both pectoral fins to move about. Watch for how the fish are breathing. An overly rapid gill rate or if the Discus looks to be gasping is a good sign of gill parasites. The fishes movement should be fluent and have no problem with balance. You don’t want to pick a fish that can’t hold itself level. The eyes of your Discus should have a healthy clean look to them. The eyes are a good indicator of how well it’s been taken care of. You will want a fish with small eyes compared to its body with a centered pupil. Big or bulging eyes are usually a sign of neglect. Ask to see the Discus eat. Be wary if they feed live blood worms or tubiflex worms. Watch to make sure the fish are able to easily get the food into their mouth. Avoid fish that continually miss the food that is right in front of them or don’t seem interested in eating. Most 2″-3″ Discus wont have full body color or pattern at this size.

Installing Your Discus

For the proposed 50 gallon setup you will want to purchase from six to ten, two - three inch juvenile Discus. Young Discus like the security of numbers. Make sure you follow standard acclimation procedures and that your tank is fully cycled as stated above. As your fish grow and mature a pecking order will develop. Eventually the smaller weaker Discus will need to be removed in order to keep a 10 gallon to 1 Discus rule. In order to provide an easy way to keep a clean environment for your new fish, use a bare aquarium. That means no gravel or plants. The bare bottom tank makes it easy to vacuum fish waste and wipe down the glass. If you’d like, you can add a ceramic pot or two to give your Discus an anchor to establish territories but the pots will need to be moved and wiped down with your water changes to ensure they aren’t trapping waste. Once a week you will want to clean your pre filter and every few weeks, your sponge and box filters, being careful to use de-chlorinated water as to not harm the beneficial bacteria. A good tip here is to syphon some tank water into your five gallon bucket and use that for your filter cleaning water.

Discus Water

Clean water is a crucial element in growing out your fish. You will want to match the water conditions as closely as possible to that of the source of your Discus. Daily changes of 50 to 60 percent is recommended and at least on an every other day schedule. You will want to provide new tap water that has been de-chlorinated and matches closely to the tank water in temperature at 84 degrees. Avoid using RO water for young Discus, they need the minerals of harder water to aid in there development. Once they have matured and if you’re interested in breeding them you can dabble with softening their water. If you have purchased Discus from different places you will need to keep them quarantined separately for 4 - 6 weeks. Don’t Cheat!

Feeding Your Discus

Your new Discus should greet you at the front of the tank with a voracious appetite. Happy healthy Discus are always hungry. You will want to break up their feedings over several times during the day adding up to six small feedings. Feed a variety of foods using quality brands of dry and frozen foods. A good tip is to feed dry foods which your fish may not like as much early when they’re hungry from their overnight fast. Feed messy or frozen foods later in the day closer to your water changes.

The Discus hobby is a great one. It has its ups and downs just like anything. If you enjoy not only the beauty of the fish but actually watching their behavior, growth and and interaction, Discus keeping will stick with you. There’s a lot to learn and this is just a small start. Make sure you do a lot of reading and ask lots of questions. Start with healthy Discus, keep their water and tank very clean, feed them well, and you’re sure to succeed!

Regular ear care for your dog Routine ear care is very important to the health of your dog. Perform regular checks and cleaning between visits to your veterinarian, it will help keep your dog’s ears healthy and pain free. This is extremely important to do.

I have had Goldens and Black Labs for many years, and they are well known for ear conditions. But remember, no matter how efficient you are in caring for your dog’s ears, serious conditions may still arise. Also, beware when your dog flaps its ears too much; this can cause a hematoma, which I will discuss a little further on.

My Golden had to be operated for this. Regular inspection of your dog’s Ears By performing ear inspections you will be able to detect problems early. Use both your eyes and your nose. A small flashlight will assist you in seeing problems. I have “smelled out” more serious problems using my nose. This method can detect ear infections early. Normally a dog’s ears shouldn’t smell foul in any way. A dark waxy discharge this may be a sign of ear mites. A pus-like discharge along with a foul smell this is a sign of a bacterial infection.

Allergies are also known to cause a foul smell in your dog’s ears. My Golden had very sensitive ears. If something feels wrong, make sure you have your Veterinarian check it right away. Have your Vet show you what to look for, and how to look for potential problems! My Vet is an amazing teacher and he is always willing to show me things. What dogs are more susceptible to ear problems? Dogs with floppy ears, like spaniels and bloodhounds, are very prone to ear infections because very little air flows into their ear canals.

There are also breeds, like the Lhasa Apso, that have a heavy growth of hair inside their ears. Dogs that frequently swim are more susceptible to ear problems. And, Goldens can be very susceptible to ear problems. If you suspect that excess ear hair is a problem, you may need to remove the hair that grows inside your dog’s ears. This is not very difficult and if you have a problem, find a good groomer to do it for you. How to clean your dog’s ears: Your dog’s eardrum is better protected than a human’s, but you should still proceed with caution when cleaning the ear canal. Do not insert anything into your dog’s ear. Use only the small square cleaning pads, or cotton balls. Use anything that is very soft, but has no tips. Ask your groomer or Vet to show you the best way to clean YOUR dog’s ears… Checking your dog’s ears only takes a few minutes so make it a part of your dog grooming routine. And when your dog’s ears need a cleaning don’t put it off.

Remember regular cleanings can prevent many common ear problems. If you think a problem may be developing that is beyond the scope of your home dog ear care routine, take your dog to the vet for a check up immediately. An infection, if left untreated, can be very painful.

Hematomas My Golden had one once, a big one, from shaking her head because of her ear condition. My Vet says a hematoma can turn into a very serious condition if not treated. Hematomas are collections of blood. They are common in ears because there doesn’t seem to be anything in the ear to generate enough pressure to stop bleeding until the ear swells enough with blood. Ear infections, ear mites, fly bite irritation, mosquito bites, allergies and immune mediated diseases have all been implicated as underlying causes for this problem. Anything that causes the dog to flap its ears can make this happen and it appears to occur spontaneously in a number of dogs. Large hematomas should be treated surgically or medically. Surgery usually involves making an incision on the inner aspect of the ear and draining the blood, removing any blood clots that are left and then suturing the two sides of the ear together by putting sutures all the way through it, in a “mattress” pattern. Sometimes it is possible just to place a drain and massage the blood out of the ear daily until it heals. Side note:

If you use a commercial ear product please make sure it is of good quality and please make sure it is the proper product for the condition. So many dogs have had tremendous ear pain and complications because of the wrong product, or the wrong use of a product. An educated dog owner is the best kind of dog owner.

This article is designed for educational and entertainment purposes only and should not be used in any other manner. This information is not intended to substitute for informed medical advice.

Dr. Jane Bick’s also has a wonderful ear solution, plus, regular online telephone call in opportunities where you can ask her questions. Dr. Jane Bicks http://www.healthypetnet.com/mydoghouse

More and more stores have started to sell food for insects. But this food is often very expensive making the savings of breeding at home nil. So I’ve put together a list of low price food for most feeder insects. I’ll break them down into the individual insect species.

Crickets

While some breeders feed crickets exclusively grain foods, I’ve found this provides the crickets with none of the protein that your pets require. Here’s an inexpensive recipe I’ve been using for a while. The main ingredient is dry cat food, followed by bran or oats, as well as vegetable scraps. Start by blending the cat food dry, making a fine powder (you could use a food processor as well). Mix about 3 parts cat food to 1 part bran or oats. If you like you can add fish flakes or other dry grains, but these could get expensive. And for moisture I’ve Found that carrots or potatoes work good. You could also use a simple sponge placed in a jar lid. Just make sure the sponge is clean and doesn’t contain any soap. I purchase all these items at my local dollar store. There is no need for premium ingredients.

Mealworms

For meal worms I use a simple mix of bran and oats. I purchase these from my local feed store in big bags that last months. I also like to add some of the cat food as well. I’ve found the protein and brewers yeast that is in the cat food helps the mealworms grow faster and larger. I use to use carrots or potatoes for moisture, but have just discovered cactus pads are the best moisture source. When they are finished there is only a thin cactus skin left. The cut pieces also don’t mold either.

Roaches

Feeder roaches are even easier. I provide a slice of inexpensive bread or just left-over bread scraps from the kitchen. I also provide a small dish of the cat food as well. For moisture I like the sponge in the shallow dish.

I hope this has been informative, and remember that most of these insects can eat simple vegetable or fruit scraps. So before you try the expensive commercial food try some cheap home made recipes first.

We all know that taking a beautiful photo of humming birds is hard to obtain, even when they are inside cages. The only thing that you could do is buy a hummingbird feeder to bring these birds into photographic distance. But these ready-made hummingbird feeders are somewhat expensive. Worry no more, because you can make your very own hummingbird feeder for free. All you need to do is recycle used or old prescription vials for making nectar dispensers. Hummingbirds are known to feed on nectars.

The materials needed to make your own hummingbird feeder are clear prescription vials with a fitted cap, a few feet of thin wire or heavy thread and transparent tape or scotch tape. You may also need a sharp pointed metal object like an ice pick.

To start with this project, heat up the ice pick or whatever sharp pointed metal you are using and make a pair of holes on each side of the prescription vial, near the open end where the cap is placed. You have to make sure that they are close but not too close that the holes are covered with the bottom of the cap when it is placed on. The size of the holes should be small enough to keep the liquid inside the container.

Next, round up the thin wire or thread. Secure it by wrapping with the scotch tape or transparent tape on each end of the thread or thin wire to the prescription vial. If you want extra holding capacity, wrap a second piece of transparent tape around the prescription vial.

Basically, that’s all you have to do in making hummingbird feeders. It depends on you how many hummingbird feeders you want to make, but if you want to enjoy watching more than just one hummingbird, you can make a number of these feeders and tie them into a mobile and place them in your backyard.

To fill up your hummingbird feeder, remove the cap holding the prescription vial on and fill it up with nectar and replace the cap. Closed tightly, turn the prescription vial upside down as quickly as you can. The feeder’s hole should be at the bottom, a small amount of nectar will leak out the feeder’s holes, but as soon as the vacuum inside the prescription vial is created, the leakage will stop.

Now we come to making the nectar for the hummingbirds. Basically there are two choices of nectar. First is the nectar mix that is commercially available in a granulated form. Or second, you can make your own nectar from a sugar solution. For the purpose of information, honey is not recommended. Research proves that too much honey is harmful to hummingbirds, since it weakens them and may cause death to these birds.

Just where to hang the feeders? In general, it is good to hang these feeders in any part of the garden where there is no direct exposure to sunlight and where the wind will not be able to shake the feeder. Direct sunlight speeds up fermentation of the nectar inside the feeder. It is recommended to hang the hummingbird feeders near the flowers in the garden to further attract these birds. Now, you can enjoy watching hummingbirds hovering and perching on your own feeder.

Your attitude at this time is very important. The manner in which a Shih Tzu matron accepts or rejects her offspring is often in direct response to your attitude or even the whelping box site.

Normal Shih Tzu puppies are plump and firm at birth. They have good muscle and skin tones. The skin on the abdomen, feet and mouth is pink. If Shih Tzu puppies cry continuously or constantly squirm and crawl, these are signs of infant distress. Well-nourished, healthy Shih Tzu puppies are warm, quiet and sleep most of the time. They yawn at awakening. Do not excessively handle newborn Shih Tzu puppies. Do not allow others to handle newborn Shih Tzu puppies. Only the breeder or caretaker should handle newborn Shih Tzu puppies. Excessive handling of more than one person increases the chance of transmission of infections to the newborns.

Unthrifty Puppies

Unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies have poor muscle tone. Obvious signs of discomfort are constant crying and initially high levels of activity. Unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies appear thinner than siblings and are limp to touch because of poor muscle and skin tones. Unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies may feel cold to your touch or cooler than their siblings. The skin over the abdomen, feet and mouth interiors may appear reddish purple or paled when compared to other siblings.

An unthrifty Shih Tzu puppy is usually incapable of sustained nursing and readily loses nipple contact with the dam. They become easily chilled. Such unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies may respond positively to a few milliliters of raw liver juice fed daily for their first few weeks. Supplementary tube or bottle feeding for three or four days every four hours around the clock may be necessary. If you notice a weak, unthrifty Shih Tzu puppy, remove it from the litter and maintain it in the puppy box. You can place the Shih Tzu puppy back on the dam at regular intervals under your close supervision. This way the dam is able to stay in touch with the weak unthrifty Shih Tzu puppy. She will stimulate elimination, clean and nurture them at this time. This regular periodic tactile time helps avoid failure-to-thrive syndrome. Many weak and unthrifty Shih Tzu puppies can be successfully saved.

Premature Puppies

The first 24 hours are critical to premature Shih Tzu puppies. They must be maintained on an hourly schedule. The next 48 hours requires an every 2 hour schedule around the clock. The following 48 hours can be stretched to a 3-hour schedule around the clock. By the fifth day, premature Shih Tzu puppies, can be changed to 4-hour intervals. At one week, the night feedings only can be set to a 6-hour schedule, resuming 4-hour intervals during the day. This is a highly intense schedule for a breeder or Shih Tzu puppy mid-wife. It must be maintained until the premature Shih Tzu puppies are ready for their first semisolid foods at about 13 days of age and after their eyes have opened. Many premature Shih Tzu puppies can be saved on this routine.

There are a number of important aspects when brushing your dog’s teeth and keeping his/her teeth and gums in tip top health. So what do you need to know about keeping your dog’s teeth healthy?

Well, first of all you need to feed your dog raw, healthy food - raw meat and bones, with some raw vegetables and a little fruit from time to time. If you feed your dog convenience food, make sure you feed natural, premium dog food - not the commercial dogfood found in your supermarket or even dogfood recommended or sold by your vet.

If your dog eats healthy, premium, preferably raw food, then the need for brushing your dog’s teeth will be reduced - and quite probably eliminated.

But many people do find that their dog’s teeth do need brushing regularly (or from time to time).

So how do you brush your dog’s teeth?

Step one is to pick an appropriate pet toothbrush. Save yourself time by not buying a child’s toothbrush which is usually too hard for dogs. The ideal dog toothbrush will have a long handle, an angled head to better fit the mouth and extra soft bristles. Another option is the finger toothbrush that fits over the tip of your finger.

Step two is to select appropriate toothpaste. The best pet toothpastes contain enzymes that help control plaque. Try to avoid toothpastes with baking soda, detergents, or salt sometimes found in human pastes. Fluoride may be incorporated to help control bacteria. Rather than placing the paste on top of the brush try to place it between the bristles. This allows the paste to spend the most time next to the teeth.

Step three is to get the brush with paste into your dog’s mouth and all the teeth brushed. Most dogs accept brushing if they are approached in a gentle manner. If you can start when they are young, it’s quite easy, but even older pets will accept the process. Start slowly, you can use a washcloth or piece of gauze to wipe the teeth, front and back in the same manner you will eventually be using the toothbrush. Do this twice daily for about two weeks and your dog should be familiar with the approach. Then take the pet toothbrush, soak it in warm water and start brushing daily for several days. When your dog accepts this brushing, add the pet toothpaste.

The Whippet is a sensitive, intelligent and sweet dog. They make good watch dogs. They need plenty of exercise and a safe place to let them run would be ideal. They are generally not to be trusted with other pets as they may consider them fair game. They are said to do well with other canines and children, especially if well socialized when young. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the Whippet is 17 to 20 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 18 to 28 pounds.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Whippet is no exception. Be on the look out for skin problems, upset stomach, genetic eye disease and sunburn. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The Whippet has a smooth, firm, short, close and easy to care for coat. She should be brushed and rubbed down with a damp chamois regularly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, avoid mats, help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet.

Life Span

The Whippet can live between 12 and 15 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

The Whippet comes from Great Britain where they were used for hunting fast small game and later radcing. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1888.

Some Registries

• UKC United Kennel Club
• NKC National Kennel Club
• CKC Continental Kennel Club
• APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
• AKC American Kennel Club
• FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
• NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
• KCGB Kennel Club of Great Britain
• ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
• ACR American Canine Registry

Litter Size

4 to 8 Whippet puppies

Category

Hound

Terms To Describe

Elegant, fit, speed, power, strength, balance, affectionate, friendly, gentle

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

• Pretty much odor free coat.
• Makes a good watch dog.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

• Does poorly in cold climates.
• Makes a poor guard dog.

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

You let them sleep in your bed when you shouldn’t. You stay up all night with them during thunderstorms. You constantly clean up after the little messes they leave around the house. And you’re always forgiving them when they get into trouble. You know you’d do anything for your pet, (don’t even pretend you were thinking about your children!) so why should they be left out of the kitchen? Take your pet’s diet into your own hands and bake them up a batch of their favorite treats.

Nutrition

Like people, pets have specific dietary needs. Depending on whether they’re cuddly new puppies or sweetly serene older cats, satisfying these needs are important. Just like in your own diet, pets need proper amounts of fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, energy, protein and water. Here’s a quick – but far from complete – reference guide for feeding your pet.

Fats – Both cats and dogs need omega 6 fatty acids in their diets. Cats require two (linoleic and arachidonic) whereas dogs only require one (linoleic). Omega 3 fatty acids are not considered necessary in the diets of cats and dogs.

Carbohydrates – Though these sugars and fibers are not essential in terms of nutrition, they are extremely important for your pet’s energy level.

Vitamins – There are two types of vitamins that your pet (and your family) should consume on a regular basis: fat-soluble and water-soluble. Fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E and K) are required in small quantities daily because the body stores them in the liver and other body fat. Fat-soluble vitamins (B1, B2, B3, B6, B12) should be consumed daily as the body does not store them as well.

Minerals – Often appearing on canned food labels as “ash,” these inorganic materials are important for your pet’s daily requirements. Macrominerals (calcium, phosphorus, sodium, chloride, magnesium and potassium) are all required in relatively large amounts (grams per day) for your pet. Microminerals (iron, copper, zinc, magnesium and selenium) are required in relatively small quantities (micrograms or less per day).

Energy – It can be difficult to determine how much food to feed your pet, especially if he’s growing quickly. Animals need calories for energy just like humans do, so this is an key part of their diets. PetDiets.com offers a food calculator that helps you figure out exactly what to feed your pet.

Protein – Rather than requiring protein in their diets, pets need a certain amount of amino acids each day (cat need 13 amino acids and dogs need 12 amino acids). It doesn’t matter what the source of this protein is (chicken, beef, soybean, lamb, etc.), it just needs to appear in their diet. This is a slightly controversial topic as some veterinarians feel pets must consume meat while others advocate a vegetarian diet. Speak to your veterinarian to get his or her opinion.

Water – You should always have fresh water available for your pet. They don’t know how to ask (though they can certainly make it clear sometimes), so don’t make them beg. Water makes up between 40 and 80 percent of your pet’s body mass, which makes it crucial that they have constant access to it.

Remember, these are just guidelines. If you have questions about your pet’s diet, please speak to your veterinarian. You can also consult PetDiets.com, which is an informative website run by veterinarians.

Is Chocolate Really Toxic for Dogs?

Yes! The rumors are true – large amounts of chocolate can be lethal for dogs. Chocolate contains theobromine, which is a stimulant found in the cocoa bean that affects the central nervous system and the heart. Different types of chocolate have different affects, and it also depends on how large your dog is. If he accidentally eats an M&M, you don’t have to rush to the vet, but if he consumes an entire chocolate cake, there may be cause for concern. Just beware of what your dog eats and keep in mind this potentially dangerous situation.

Supplies

It’s awfully hard to make the perfect dog bone without the perfect dog bone shape! Check out these sites for cookie cutters and more.

Good Dog Express

Dog Like Nature

Birthday Express

SitStay.com

Bay Village Store

Foose Cookie Cutters

Recipes

You’ll be amazed at how easy it is to whip up a batch of kitty treats or doggy bones. Your pet will flip for the homemade goodness and you’ll love knowing they’re healthy. Spoil those little (and not so little) fur balls with home-baked treats in their favorite flavors. There’s even one for your feathered friends!

Cats

Kitty Heaven (Sardines and Rice)

Ingredients

2 flat cans of sardines in oil

2/3 C. cooked rice

1 Tbs. cooked chopped liver

1/4 C. parsley, chopped

Directions

Combine all ingredients. Stir with a wooden spoon to break up sardines into bite-sized pieces. Store unused portion in refrigerator, tightly covered.

Yield: 2 servings

Fabulous Feline Fish Balls

Ingredients

3 baby carrots, cooked until soft

2 6 oz. cans tuna in olive oil, drained

2 oz. cooked herring, skin removed

2 Tbs. whole grain breadcrumbs or oatmeal

2-3 Tbs. grated cheese

2 tsp. Brewer’s yeast

Several pinches of chopped catnip

1 large egg, beaten

2 Tbs. tomato paste (not ketchup)

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Mash the carrots with the fish, breadcrumbs or oatmeal, cheese, Brewer’s yeast, catnip, egg and tomato paste to an even paste. Mold into small balls and put on a greased cookie sheet. Bake for 15-20 minutes, checking frequently. The fishballs should be golden brown and feel firm. Cool thoroughly. Refrigerate extras.

Dogs

Liver Squares

Ingredients

1 lb. beef liver

4 eggs

1 C. cornmeal

1/2 tsp. garlic powder

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix all the above ingredients in a food processor or blender until smooth. Pour onto greased 8 inch square pan. Bake for 30 minutes. Let cool - then cut into squares! Your dogs will love ‘em!!

From: Recipe USA

Dog Treats

Ingredients

1/2 C. cornmeal

6 Tbs. oil

2/3 C. water or meat broth

2 C. whole wheat flour

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix well. Roll out to 1/4″ thick. Cut into shapes. Baste with meat drippings and bake for 35-40 minutes.

From: Recipe USA

Pet Party Mix

Ingredients

2 C. Cheerios

2 C. spoon-size shredded wheat

2 C. Crispix

1/2 C. melted butter or margarine

2 Tbs. dry gravy mix

1/2 C. Kraft grated American cheese powder

1/2 C. bacon bits

1 C. dog jerky/pupperoni/sausage

Directions

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Pour melted butter into 13×9″ baking pan. Stir in cheese powder, bacon bits, and gravy mix. Add cereals and stir well until all pieces are coated. Heat in oven for 45 minutes. Meanwhile cut doggie meat treats into 1/2 inch pieces. Remove cereal from oven, add doggie treats. Store in airtight containers. May be frozen and keeps well.

From: Recipe USA

Cheese Bone Dog Cookies

Ingredients

2 C. unsifted all-purpose flour

1 1/4 C. shredded cheddar cheese

2 C. garlic, finely chopped

1/2 C. vegetable oil

4 1/2 Tbs. water

Directions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Make a cardboard pattern of a dog bone, 4 inches long or use a dog-bone cookie cutter. Combine flour, cheese, garlic and vegetable oil in container of food processor. Cover, whirl until mixture is consistency of coarse meal. With a machine running, slowly add water until mixture forms a ball. Divide dough into 12 equal pieces. Roll out each piece to 1/2″ thickness. Cut out bones. Transfer to ungreased cookie sheet. Do not reroll scraps. Bake in preheated hot oven for 10-15 minutes or until bottom of cookies are lightly browned. Carefully transfer bones to wire rack to cool completely. Refrigerate in airtight container.

Fidos Fabulous People Biscuits

Ingredients

1/4 C. hot water

8 cubes chicken bouillon cube

1 pkg. dry yeast

1 tsp. sugar

1 1/2 C. tomato juice

2 C. all-purpose flour

2 C. wheat germ

1 1/2 C. whole wheat flour

Directions

Preheat oven to 300 degrees, then pour the water into a large bowl. Add the sugar and yeast and let stand for about 5 minutes. Then add the chicken bouilion cubes. Crush them with a fork as you stir them in.

Add the tomato juice, 1 C. all-purpose flour and the wheat germ. Stir with a large spoon to form a smooth batter. Then stir in the remaining all-purpose and whole wheat flours (this will make the dough very dry and stiff). You’ll probably have to use your hands to finish mixing.

Sprinkle flour on your cutting board, then take a couple of handfuls of dough out and work into a small ball shape. Then, with a rolling pin flatten the balls to about 1/4-inch thick on the cutting board. If the dough is too sticky, add a little more flour

Use a table knife to cut out people shapes. Then repeat the whole process again with the rest of the dough, working a few handfuls at a time. Finally, use a spatula to put people biscuits onto a cookie sheet. Then bake at 300 degrees for about an hour. Afterwards, let them dry in the turned-off oven for about 4 hours.

Serve with a bowl of water and a nice big bone.

Western Ranch Biscuits

Ingredients

1 pkg. dry yeast

1/4 C. warm water

2 C. warm beef broth

1/4 C. milk

1/2 C. honey

1 egg, beaten

1/4 C. bacon grease or margarine

1 tsp. salt

2 1/2 C. flour (white, oat, or rye)

1 C. cornmeal

1 C. wheat germ

2 C. cracked wheat

3/4 C. wheat bran

3/4 C. oatmeal

3/4 C. grated cheddar cheese

3 C. whole wheat flour

Topping:

1 C. beef broth

1/2 tsp. garlic powder

3 Tbs. oil

Directions

In a small bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water. In a large bowl, combine beef broth, milk, honey, egg, bacon grease or margarine, and salt. Add yeast/water mixture and mix well. Stir in flour, corn meal, wheat germ, cracked wheat, wheat bran, oatmeal, and cheese. Add whole wheat flour, 1/2 C. at a time, mixing well after each addition.

Knead in the final amounts of flour by hand to make a stiff dough. Continue to knead for 4-5 minutes. Pat or roll to 1/2 inch thickness. Cut into bone shapes and place on a greased baking sheet. Cover lightly and let set (rise) for 30 minutes. Bake in a 350 degree oven for 45 minutes or until lightly browned on bottom. Prepare topping during last few minutes. Turn off oven heat. Remove biscuits from oven. Immediately dip biscuits in topping. Return them to oven and leave biscuits in oven for several hours or overnight.

Carob Dog Cookies

Ingredients

1/2 C. whole wheat flour

1 Tbs. baking powder

1 C. peanut butter

1 C. milk (1% or 2%)

2 eggs

1/4 C. honey

1 C. carob chips

Directions

Combine flour and baking powder in large bowl. Set aside. In separate bowl, combine peanut butter, milk, eggs and honey. Mix until well blended. Stir in carob chips. Drop by heaping tsp.ful on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes or until centers are done. Remove and let sit one minute, then transfer to wire rack to cool and harden.

Birds

Bird Biscuits

This is an easy recipe to make because you can use the same biscuit mix you’d use for your family. Before you bake your family’s biscuits, save some mix for the birds and follow this recipe. Then bake them all together!

Ingredients

Biscuit mix

1/2 jar baby food sweet potatoes, squash or garden vegetables

1/2 jar baby food applesauce

2 Tbs. wheat germ

1/4 C. hand feeding parrot food

1/4 C. Beak Appetit, any flavor

1/2 C. oatmeal

1 Tbs. dry crushed red peppers

Directions

Prepare biscuit mix. Mix remaining ingredients together with biscuit mix very well. Coat your hands with flour (mixture is sticky) and shape mixture into 2 or more biscuits. Place on cookie sheet. Bake in oven preheated to 425 degrees until golden brown. Break up into serving pieces and give to birds. Freeze leftovers for later.

Copyright © 2006 Ampere Media LLC