Archive for October, 2006

Dog Training Equipment You Will Need

Tuesday, October 31st, 2006

Training your dog to perform basic obedience commands can enhance your relationship with him, boost his confidence, and overall, help both of you to lead a more peaceful and happy life together! A well-trained, well-mannered dog is truly a great companion to share your life with! In order to begin training your dog, you will need certain items that will facilitate the learning process. First of all, you will need some type of collar. We recommend using a flat, nylon buckle collar, or for very small dogs, a harness. The collar can also serve to display your dog’s identification tags in case he gets lost.

In addition to the nylon collar, you will need a 6-foot leash. You may choose any material type that you please, but we recommend using a nylon leash. Leather leashes also work very well, but can sometimes be a temptation for your dog to chew on. Metal chain leashes can be very hard on the hands during training and retractable leashes tend to be very cumbersome and hard to handle for training purposes. Nylon leashes are durable, comfortable to use and generally long-lasting.

Another essential tool for training your dog is some kind of motivator. Different dogs will be motivated by different things, so the best way to choose a motivator is to get to know your dog! Generally speaking though, nearly all dogs will respond to food or treats and those that do not, will most often respond to toys or just love and attention. For the purposes of this training ebook, we will focus on using treats as the main motivator for your dog. If your dog is motivated by toys or attention, then simply use that in place of the treats. We recommend using soft, easily breakable treats, as opposed to hard, crumbly treats. The reason being that hard treats tend to crumble onto the ground and can distract your dog from learning because he will be too busy picking up the crumbs from the ground! You will want to break the treats into very small pieces, so that they last longer and so that your dog does not start to feel full and lose interest in the treats while you are still training.

This last tool is absolutely essential to any training program. Make sure you have this tool before beginning any training exercise and, in fact, anytime you are working with you dog at all. The tool is: A Positive Attitude!! Always approach training your dog with a fun and positive outlook. Your dog will most likely pick up on your mood and respond in kind. The idea is for training to be fun and enjoyable for both of you. If you start to feel frustrated, then take a break. If you feel stressed at all, then leave training until later.

So, gather up your training equipment, round up your dog, and get ready to start training.

Wolf Pack Ways - Arrival of the Wild Wolf Pups

Monday, October 30th, 2006

Why study wild wolf society? Wild dog behavior and dog instinctive behavior have their genesis in the dog pack. The similarities of dogs with their cousin, the wild wolf, are so striking that we can gain much dog behavior and communication understanding through glimpses into wild wolf society. This series of articles deals with the wolf pack, pups in the wild wolf lodge, the alpha leader of the pack, treatment of different pack members according to their wolf pack rank, and similar issues.

Let’s start at the beginning, with the pups and the wild wolf lodge. Wolf pups are born at the same time of spring as the caribou and moose calves. This gives the hunter and the hunted fair time to raise their offspring in peace. As anyone can see, if things were not set up in this order, a herd would soon be wiped out due to over harvest of the defenseless young.

Wolves generally use the same wolf den (also called wild wolf lodge) for all members of their pack to birth their pups. Wild wolves only mate once a year — in springtime. Only one pair of wolves from each wolf pack will mate (not always the alpha leader), and that impregnated female uses the den that year.

The wolf pack changes locations in late summer, when the pups are big enough to keep up with the adults. They change again in winter, as soon as the tundra caterpillars stop creeping. That is when they return to the “family site” (nesting wild wolf lodge).

Teamwork, order, and discipline prevail in the wild wolf pack, just as it should in a properly ordered dog home. Upon their return to the lodge, all pack members will go into the den one-by-one, and each will clean out a section.

The only time the wild wolf pack will use dens outside of their established summer and winter quarters is during the migration between the two sites. The wolf pack will continue to use the same home dens until the male alpha leader dies and one of his offspring takes his place.

The new alpha leader will have a mate from another pack — usually one about his age who has chosen to leave her pack and find a new one (as many adolescent wolves do at age two). Family members do not mate. The new alpha female often digs a new den, and the whole family chips in together to make the new site a good home.

The wolf pack eagerly awaits the arrival of her pups. The male alpha leader leads them to the wolf pack lodge when the expecting mother gives him the signal with her eyes.

The members of the wolf pack wait outside the lodge until they hear distant puppy whimpers. Wild wolves and domestic dogs alike have keen hearing and a discerning sense of smell. Through the sound of the cries, the wolves know how many pups have been whelped. Through scent, they know the sex of the pups.

The pack also howls very loudly to celebrate the arrival of the pups. This continues for several minutes up to one-half hour. When such an announcement is made, rival packs often rush to their territory borders to remark with fresh scent messages. This reminds the other pack of the rival’s strength, capabilities, previous battles where they were the victors, and so forth. Wild wolves know and respect boundaries (so it is not unreasonable for you to expect your domestic pup to observe the boundaries you establish, either!).

Unlike some species of animals, the wolf alpha leader will not kill pups created by another pair in his pack. All members of the wolf pack adore and care for the young ones. You may have benefited from this same phenomenon if you have older, well-trained, emotionally stable dogs who eagerly groomed and trained your new puppy as though she were their own. What a welcome relief to have them lead, teach, and discipline the pup, greatly reducing your parenting burden! Gain even greater understanding of your domestic dog behavior and communication in the next few articles as we explore more wolf pack ways.

Are Laser Pointers Safe for Your Puppy Dog?

Sunday, October 29th, 2006

Are laser pointers safe to use with dogs for training or play? Some dogs have developed serious “obsessive-compulsive” type behaviors (known as a “stereotypie̶ ;) when allowed to chase the dot from a laser pointer, yet others do not develop these behaviors. So how do we know if our dog is at risk of developing a stereotypie when exposed to a laser pointer, and is the light dangerous to our dog’s eyes?

Some breeds seem to have a greater tendency to develop abnormal behavior when exposed to a laser pointer, but these breeds are also popular as Service Dogs and many have been trained to ‘target’ a laser dot in their work without developing abnormal behaviors. So, while some people say that certain breeds should not be allowed to play with laser dots, that does not mean that your particular dog of this breed will develop a stereotypie. Conversely, it does not mean that just because you don’t have a dog of one of these breeds your dog is safe, either.

Some signs that a stereotypie may be developing are:

- pawing or scratching at the area/s where the dot was last seen for more than 1 minute after the dot has gone

- patrolling the area/s where the dot was last seen more than 1 minute earlier

- repeatedly returning to the area/s where the dot has been seen for no apparent reason other than to chase the dot again

- developing strong chasing behaviors for other light or shadow sources

If your dog displays any of the above signs then it is time to stop using the laser pointer as your dog is at risk of developing a serious behavioral problem. You should consult an experienced animal behaviorist if using a laser pointer is important to any of your training goals.

It is strongly recommended that you do not use the laser pointer to play games with your dog. Nearly every dog will enjoy chasing the laser dot, but it is not worth the risk. There are safer games to play, and dogs who enjoy chasing laser dots will probably be just as happy to chase a ball or play tug.

If you are training your dog to ‘target’ a laser dot, then approach training with the aim of minimising chasing behavior. Introduce movement slowly, and be mindful that you are teaching your dog to ‘target’ using some specific behavior that you have defined and trained. I suspect the risk of a stereotypie developing is minimised when training is approached in this manner.

Treatment for obsessive light or shadow chasing should be performed under the guidance of a veterinary behaviorist. Medications are available which may be effective. Do not under any circumstances attempt to punish obsessive light or shadow chasing.

Is the light from a laser pointer safe for a dog’s eyes? Generally, the light emitted from a laser pointer is very weak and will probably only cause temporary dazzling if pointed directly into a dog’s eye by accident. Prolonged or repeated exposure could be harmful and should be avoided.

Can Cat Lovers Ever Love Dogs?

Saturday, October 28th, 2006

People often define themselves as either a cat lover or a dog lover, but the question remains can a cat lover ever love dogs? Or, dog lovers ever love cats? It takes a lot for a person to change even in the simplest of ways. This seems to be one of the many difficult ways because of the huge investment people put into their pets.

The Dog Lover

The dog lover often loves their dog for many reasons. Dogs are playful and attentive to their owners. They love to spend their time hiding under their owner’s chair or chasing their tail. It just seems as if they are fun loving creatures. Sure, they bark and they can be very annoying when they want your attention even when you are busy. But, they won’t fail to greet you when you come home and you are where their loyalty lies no matter what.

The Cat Lover

On the other side of the coin, we have the cat lover. Cats are more independent and more self centered. But, they can provide much affection to their owners nonetheless. They can be playful when they want to be. They can also be full of personality, good or bad. Cat lovers love this about their animals. They are themselves. Of course, they can be rather snooty to some. They are independent and they certainly won’t greet you unless it is in their best interest to do so.

The Conclusion

While it seems that many people have an overall preference for one type of animal to the next, there is nothing to say that they can not switch from being a dog lover to being a cat lover. But, it is unlikely that they will receive the same attention from their pet as they did with the other species. Dog lovers will forever value their best friend while cat lovers will always value their cat’s personality.

If you are a dog lover or a pet lover and are thinking of venturing to the other side, consider the various differences in these animals before you do. You’ll find that many times, it is the qualities that the pet offers that makes them the right, the most attractive choice to you.

Hunting Dogs: Essential Training Equipment and Information

Friday, October 27th, 2006

Producing a “finished” hunting dog, one that will perform the tasks of pointing out game or retrieving game, is not a simple matter. In some cases, it can take several hunting seasons and specialized training equipment to achieve the desired results.

It would be ludicrous to begin training a dog to perform hunting skills without first teaching it basic obedience. Your dog must be able to sit, stay, remain quite and come on demand before moving into the more complex areas of the hunt. The success of the hunt, as well as the safety of the dog and its handler, is directly correlated to the dog’s performance and self control. For example, an unruly dog that barks at incoming geese will not only spoil the hunt, but will not be invited back again. Further, a dog that bolts out of a blind too quickly can jeopardize a shot and even cause a shooting accident. Control is most essential.

When the hunter is ready to begin training his dog for the hunt, there is a variety of equipment that will prove valuable. Probably the first and most essential item is a piece of 3/8-inch polypropylene rope of about 30 feet in length. The rope allows the handler to maintain control of his dog during exercises and eliminates the chance of having to chase the dog and correct him for straying.

Most dogs have a natural fear of loud noises, especially gunfire. Therefore, the trainer will have to involve a training pistol or firearm in his training program. A handgun is preferable; a shotgun is too large and difficult to handle while holding the lead line and juggling other training devices. When training the retriever, training “bumpers” or dummies are utilized to teach the dog to fetch. These aides come in various colors and sizes. White bumpers are generally used for “marking” drills where the dog is being taught to retrieve by sight and colored bumpers are used for “running blinds” where the dog is sent blindly into an area to retrieve a downed bird that fell out of sight.

The retriever should be trained to respond to the sound of a whistle. The voice of the dog’s handler will not always be loud enough or distinct enough to alert the dog to give up the search and return to the handler’s side. Some of the more elaborate whistles come with built-in megaphones that allow the sound to be heard more easily and direct the blaring sound away from the hunter(s). They are usually well worth the extra cost.

Some trainers will use a friend or “bird boys” who position themselves some distance from the trainer and toss the bumpers high into the air to simulate a falling bird. For those who train without assistance, bird launchers are a big help. These launchers come in single or multiple bird capacity; however, they are usually bulky and can be expensive.

Electric dog training collars are effective but controversial. These collars have a small electronic device attached that administers a remote controlled mild electric shock to the dog. The control is hand held by the trainer. These pieces of equipment allow an immediate correction when the dog fails to respond to the more conventional command. The level of shock involved has been compared to the static shock one receives from a carpet or from touching a car door handle in cold weather. Actually, the electric collar could be considered a humane alternative to the aggressive tactics or brute force used by some trainers.

One of the best ways to embark on training your hunting dog is learn from the experts. Training tips and guidelines are now available on tapes that show the student step by step training procedures. These instructional tapes should be on every novice trainer’s list of essential training equipment.

When you’re training your dog in the wilds you should be prepared to care for him if he is injured. Therefore, the final thing on our list of essentials is a First Aid Kit. Many of the items you’ll need for your dog are also appropriate for use on humans, so the kit can be mutually beneficial to both you and your dog. Fill the kit with such items as: sterile bandages, topical solutions, tape, scissors, tweezers, antibiotic ointments such as Neosporin, ibuprofen (safe for both humans and canines) and possibly a veterinarian prescribed anti-inflammatory such as Deramaxx or Rimadly. A well stocked First Aid Kit has prevented many a pleasant hunting trip from becoming a nightmare.

Gifts For Dog Lovers

Thursday, October 26th, 2006

Our passion for dogs can sometimes go to the extreme. We treat our pet like it was our own baby, not to mention the love we feel for newly born puppies. Is this just a case of “man’s best friend”? Or is it something greater?

We’ll let you be the judge of that.

Dogs are just so cute that some dog owners go to the extent of calling their pets “sweetie”. Others call their dogs their “kids,” or “babies.”

Dog lovers are limitless in the terms of affection they can come up with for their pets. It is even common to see pets that look like their owners, and vice versa. This is probably just another sign of our love for them.

Dogs give unconditional love to their owners. This is a characteristic of all dog breeds. A lot of dog lovers return this love in the form of dog gifts. And the selection of dog gifts appear in all shapes, varieties, and sizes.

There is a wide selections of dog gifts. There are dog baskets, dog books, dog collars, dog crates, dog clothes, food, dog accessories, medicines, vitamin supplements, just to name a few.

Dog gifts can be any dog related item, from dog toys to dog supplies and to a program in dog training. Whatever the giver can imagine.

A common misconception among gift givers is that dog gifts are gifts for pet lovers or the owners themselves. In most instances, they are not. They are for the dog. But in a way, they benefit the dog owner by saving him or her from the expenses he/she would have incurred buying the items.

Dog books are great gifts, generally given to new pet owners. Normally, they contain details pertaining to dog breeds, guidelines in taking care of dogs, nutritional details on the specific breed, methods of dog grooming, tips, and everything in between.

Dog toys may be given as gifts as well. Like children, dogs are fond of playing. In fact, quite a number of breeds are recognized for their playfulness — some are born ball chasers.

Obviously, in giving toys as dog gifts, you must be careful not to get a toy that could potentially harm the pet. It is wise that you choose those toys that are primarily made of vinyl or latex materials.

Also, avoid those that can be torn in smaller pieces, as they may stick in the dog’s throat. One toy you can get is cheap tube of balls, but they must be large enough that they won’t fit into the animal’s mouth. Or it can be an old sack, or better yet, the sneakers that he likes to chew.

As these examples show, you need not always buy a gift made specifically for dogs. But if you choose to, there are many dog websites that can provide you with a good selection of products. Furthermore, you can also buy from a local pet shop.

Moreover, if you cannot choose a dog gift yourself you have the option of giving the dog owner a gift certificate. This is an ideal way of giving a gift, because in this way you are giving the owner the chance to decide on the gift he thinks would be best for his pet.

Aquarium Hang on the Back Power Filters (HOB Filters), Their Strengths and Weaknesses

Wednesday, October 25th, 2006

HOB filters (hang on the back- power filters) are quite popular for good reason. They are generally inexpensive and simple to operate. But they do have a couple of weaknesses.

[1] Bio filtration; The Aqua clear is better here than others, but it has a weak impeller design that is not very durable and they are prone to leaks. The Aqua Clear is also a poor mechanical filter with a high “flow by rate” (the amount of water that actually is forced thru the filter media). That leaves the cartridge models starting with the Penguin. The Penguin has a much lower “flow by rate” than the Aqua Clear and is less prone to leaks, but their bio filtration is poor, even with the bio wheel, which is vastly over-rated in my tests I preformed through my aquarium maintenance business. I removed the bio wheel on penguin filters on comparable aquariums with comparable bio loads and fish and found no discernable ammonia spike. Yet when HOB filters that had running pre filters attached to their intakes were removed, there were discernable ammonia spikes.

The Whisper and ReSun the HOB filters I prefer the most. Both these filters have a low “flow by rate”. The ReSun is a much better value and is less prone to leaks, but the ReSun currently has a poor choice of filter size options.

This brings me to the point that ALL HOB filters should be equipped with Pre Filters (the Filter Max is the best due to its patented sponge technology). Pre Filters vastly increase bio filtration, are inexpensive ($4.99 and up), prevent baby fish from being sucked into the filter, and provide a measure of bio stability when the cartridge is changed.

[2] The other weakness of HOB filters is the poor cross circulation they provide (HOB filters provide vertical circulation). Cross circulation is especially important in larger aquariums such as a 48” 60 gallon aquarium. For small aquariums such as 20 gallons or less, this is of less concern, although I would still consider an addition filter such as an air driven sponge filter for redundancy. This is easily remedied with an Internal Filter. I recommend the Via Aqua Internal Filter due to its reliability, and inexpensive sponge media which keeps it simple to keep.

For more information about sponge filtration, please see this article: “Sponge filtration”

Old English Sheepdog Puppy And Dog Information

Tuesday, October 24th, 2006

The Old English Sheepdog is a lovable, even tempered dog. She is more meant for the country as opposed to an apartment. She has plenty of fur to distribute when shedding plus she takes a ton of time for grooming. As a puppy she takes up to two years to mature. She generally gets along well with other pets and children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Old English Sheepdog is 22 to 24 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 65 to 90 pounds. The female ranges from 20 to 22 inches to the withers and 60 to 90 pounds.

*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Old English Sheepdog is no exception. Be on the look out for Canine Hip Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), cataracts and Immune Mediated Hemolytic Snemia. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

*Grooming. The Old English Sheepdog has a profuse, coarse, shaggy coat. Much time must be scheduled to keep this fine dog brushed regularly. She will need to be professionally groomed occasionally and your groomer needs to train you in her daily or at least several times a week maintenance.

Her ears should be checked once a week and be kept clean. If you have her professionally groomed, make sure ear cleaning and inspection is part of the package. No water or excess fluid should get in the dogs ears, and do not try to irrigate the ears. Ear cleaning is too complicated and critical to instruct here. Look for hair growing in the ear canal, excess wax, or moisture. If her ears have a discharge, foul odor or she seems to be in distress and you suspect an infection, or tumor, consult your veterinarian.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet.

*Life Span. The Old English Sheepdog can live between 12 and 13 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

*History. The Old English Sheepdog comes from Great Britain where they were used to herd cattle and sheep. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1888.

Some Registries:

*Old English Sheepdog Club of America

*UKC United Kennel Club

*NKC National Kennel Club

*CKC Continental Kennel Club

*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.

*AKC American Kennel Club

*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale

*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club

*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain

*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club

*ACR = American Canine Registry

Litter Size: 5 to 8 Old English Sheepdog puppies

Category: Herding.

Terms To Describe: Intelligent, adaptable, powerful, shaggy, agile, lovable,

*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

Good watch dog.

Like to hang around the house.

They love children.

More protective then she looks.

*SPECIAL BAD POINTS

Poor guard dog.

Can be stubborn.

Needs good obedience training.

They may try to herd the kids or other animals.

Barks loudly.

Slow learner

Slow to mature from a puppy.

High maintenance grooming.

When she seasonally sheds, she sheds.

*Other Names Known By: Bobtail

*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

Beds for the Pets: Sleeping in Comfort

Monday, October 23rd, 2006

As we love to have a comfortable place to sleep so do the animals. So there are various types of beds for the pets to give them a comfortable sleep. Most of us have the dog as a pet. For the pets we specially have these beds designed for their fullest comfort. This type of beds mainly includes the outdoors beds, luxury beds, and puppy beds. For the various types of dogs there are various types of beds like the large dog beds and the small dog beds. Whereas when we look out for a bed for a cat then there are various types of beds depending upon the breed and the size of the cat.

Comfort and luxury:

The beds not only provide comfort but also look great due to the material used. Some of the pet beds are made up of the micro velvet nylon. The specialty of this is that it is washable. Due to the flexibility of the pet bed it can be used in traveling. The other advantages of these beds are that the machine can wash it and the covers are also removable and replaceable. Pet beds are available in various colors.

Material used for the pet beds:

The material used is not just for comfort but for style also. There are various types and sizes of these pet beds. Some of the pet beds are rectangular in shape. The material used for the pet bed is polyfiber, which is washable and removable. There are various sizes of the beds right from small to extra large. Some pet beds are round in shape for the protection of the animal. These beds are used specially when the animal is small in size or by age. The thick inner cushion provides with the fullest comfort to the animal.

Other varieties of pet beds:

The other varieties of pet beds mainly include the ones with the shape of a doughnut while others are reversible. The reversible beds have an advantage that both sides can use them. The inner cushion is removable and it can be washed easily. Some of these pet beds have an additional advantage of a crate pad.

Bed for cats:

The beds for cats are mainly required so that they are shielded from the winter and protected from the floor, which is cold. Most of the cat beds are made specially considering the window or the porch. To make the cats more comfortable the beds have a system of heating. This controls the temperature of the bed and the cats are protected from cold.

Other advantages of the Pet beds:

The pet beds give the animals their own space and the house has a more organized look. These beds can be bought online also.

Dog Training Collars Are Not All Alike

Sunday, October 22nd, 2006

If you are a new dog owner or simply need to give your dog some additional training one of the first things you need to think about as a dog training collar. Back some years ago there weren’t many options, but today there are many different kinds of training collars and, depending on the task at hand, you may need to buy one particular type or many.

All dog training collars and not created alike in some may be more appropriate for the type of training you need to do if your dog. Here’s an overview of some of the different collars available and what they are best suited for.

Martingale collars are best described as a limited to choke collar. These are similar to a choke collar, however they will not constrict smaller than the size of your dog’s neck, therefore will not roughly choke your dog. They do get tight enough so the dog cannot wiggle out of them and are great for agility training. this type of collar is great when you need to call it that you dog cannot wriggle out of but also did not want to worry about your dog accidentally getting choked.

The head collar looks kind of like a horse halter and goes around the dogs face with the leash attachment under the muzzle. Many people mistake this for muzzle but in fact it is not keep you dog from biting but so that you can lead him from the head. When you read your dog bites had his body has to follow and therefore you have good control over getting your dog to go where you want them to go. This type of collar can feel really weird to dog might take awhile to get used to it. Training with the head collar can be tricky since you don’t want to simply lead to your dog around like a pony or he will become dependent on you meeting him and won’t have a mind of its own!

The pronged collar is good for dogs that are very strong and have a muscular neck. This is a good collar to use if your dog is really wild and you have trouble controlling him. The collar has prongs which poke out into the dog’s neck - not sharp prongs, but more like fingers in the applied pressure helps to control the dog. Some people feel that these collars are cruel (they do look kind of mean, but are not as bad as they look) but they can give you an edge until you can get enough training under your belt to be able to control your dog with a regular collar.

The choke chain used to be really popular caller and leash control device but it’s not use too much today. this is basically attain a ghost or rank and when you make on the chain it tightens up on the dog’s throat. they are out of favor today as the type of training you get by using this kind of chain is usually based on punishment in today’s way of thinking is that positive reinforcement is way better way of training your dog. These can also be very dangerous if the chain gets stuck your dog can literally choked to death. If you do use the choke chain you need to make sure you are with your dog at all times and never leave him change out anywhere with a choke chain collar on. the variation to this, the limited choke collar, is made up of a nylon strap and has the ring sewn into a piece of material so that it cannot move as far and could never choke your dog.

Electronic dog collars can be an effective training device if used properly. Personally, I wouldn’t really want to shock my dog but many people do report that these work great and lessen the training time. The way the callers were is the caller has a receiver that can admit a small jolt of electricity. The trainer holds a remote and when your dog starts to exhibit undesirable behavior you press a button on the remote ( or turn a knob) and he gets a jolt. Eventually he learns when he exhibits the undesirable behavior, he’ll get an unpleasant jolt and therefore this discourages him from repeating this type of behavior. The problem is that many people use this as a punishment when in fact it is intended to simply get the dog’s attention. Don’t wait until your dog is barking excessively and then administer the punishment. In order to properly train your dog you need to be observant and see when he is about to bark and then give him the shock to distract him from the barking behavior in the first place.

No bark collars are intended to discourage a dog from barking. they do this by sensing the vibration of the bark and then providing some sort of deterrent. The chart can be one of three things either shock, a noise, or puff of citrus spray. Once you dog associates back to barking with one of these unpleasant occurrences he might think twice before he barks again. While this might work to discourage her dog from barking, you may be better served by figuring out why he’s barking and trying to eliminate the behavior that way.

Choosing a dog training collar as a matter of personal preference and the needs of your dog. When training, always remember that positive reinforcement is better than punishment and in fact punishment rarely works. Be kind to your dog, be persistent and be patient and you’ll soon have a well-trained and obedient companion for life.