Archive for December, 2006

Student Finances and Budgeting

Sunday, December 31st, 2006

Yawn. This is what you might think when we start discussing budgeting, but do not be mistaken, ensuring that you manage your finances effectively can make the difference between completing your degree or diploma with the rest of your friends and dropping out of university on your own because you couldn’t afford to feed yourself.

Some students are more fortunate than others and will be receiving financial help from family or funds. Others will be borrowing the largest sums of money that they have ever borrowed so far in their lives (and just wait until you get a mortgage!), accruing debts that will last for years after graduation. It took me almost 8 years to finish repaying my Student Loan! Whilst the repayment of any long term, low interest loans such as Student Loans may be at the deepest depths of your mind right now, you’d be doing yourself a favour by reminding yourself when you’re trying to decide between the Gucci sunglasses or the Prada bag.

Do you know how much money you have as income each month? Do you know exactly how much you spend on the essentials like food and accommodation? Let’s face it, most people reading this will not have a detailed breakdown of their incomings and outgoings. Even if you have a budget set out, do you stick to it?

Okay. Let’s presume that you’re leaving home and are university bound, ready to take on the world. Now let’s discuss how to make sure your finances don’t prevent you from staying there!

Setting a budget is not a difficult thing to do. If you’ve got access to a spreadsheet application then great. If all you’ve got is an A4 pad from the Stationery Box then don’t worry. Creating the budget plan is the easy part. Being disciplined enough to stay within it is the hard part. If you haven’t tasted university life yet then you may not understand, but once you start buying books, meeting people and going out then you will thank me for taking you through this (I happily accept most major credit cards and beer vouchers through the post!).

Firstly, some thinking. Determine exactly how much money you’re going to be receiving each month (doing it monthly gives us more meaningful numbers and allows for weekly fluctuations). Whether it be from a loan, savings, or family, just come up with a ballpark figure. Then create a list of all the things you think you’ll be spending on in any given month. At this point, it’s worth asking someone who owns their own house what they have to spend on. Try your parents as they’re more than likely willing to make you feel guilty about how much time you spend on the phone or how much more it costs them when you don’t switch off the lights.

Here’s a sample list of things for you to consider. Note that we’re not providing any figures because these can vary greatly from person-to-person and different locations.

Incoming

  1. Student Loan
  2. Family contribution
  3. Wages
  4. Other

Outgoing

  1. Tuition fees
  2. Accommodation fees
  3. Electricity
  4. Gas
  5. Water
  6. Landline telephone
  7. Mobile telephone
  8. TV licence
  9. Insurance
  10. Transport (if you are taking your own car then break this down further e.g. petrol, road tax, insurance)
  11. Toiletries
  12. Laundry expenses
  13. Clothing
  14. Course books
  15. Internet connection
  16. Entertainment (think about all of the things you do for fun e.g. cinema, booze, clubbing, magazines, cigarettes)

Once you have your list, input it into your spreadsheet or pad and starting assigning some values to them. Sum up your expected outgoings and subtract them from your incoming. Hopefully, you’ll have a positive number left over. If not, then it’s time to start pruning that outgoings list and dropping what you can or start thinking about earning some extra money from a part time job.

If you’re already working and still feel uncomfortable about your finances then try speaking to your Student Welfare Officer. They might be able to give you specific advice about your given situation. It’s also worth speaking to your bank’s student advisor as they will often arrange for things like interest free overdrafts.

A general word about credit cards. It’s more than likely you’ll open a student bank account once you start your course. There are many benefits to be had including free banking, interest free overdrafts, cheque book, debit card, free advice, pens, balloons… So it makes good sense to do so. Often, banks will also start to offer you credit cards and these can be a mixed blessing depending on how you use them. They’re often fee-free and may come with perks such as redeemable points or free insurance. They can also be a good way to start a credit file on yourself so that when you come to request a large loan e.g. mortgage then the lender will have some frame of reference to look back upon. Of course, this can be a bad thing if you default a lot and never meet your minimum repayments. If you can use them sensibly i.e. only use them to buy things that you can afford so that you pay off the full balance each month. Be aware that it becomes all to easy to start maintaining a balance on your credit cards. As a result, you’ll start paying interest at relatively high rates.

Whatever you do, don’t take the hiding-under-the-blanket-will-make-it-go-away approach because racking up huge amounts of debt now will come back to haunt you at some later date. Of course, I want you to enjoy yourself, but just be aware of your (financial) limits!

Hypoallergenic Dogs

Saturday, December 30th, 2006

When we talk about hypoallergenic dogs, we mean that they have a less or reduced tendency to cause allergies or allergic reaction among allergy sufferers.

It has been estimated that about 10% of the US population is allergic to animals (American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology). Symptoms of the reactions can range from watery eyes to dangerous asthma attacks.

The problem is not with the pet’s hair. It is the dander, or microscopic scales of dead skin (similar to, but much smaller than the dandruff on the human scalp) which pets are constantly shedding that is the cause. They are so tiny that you seldom know that they are circulating in the air or laying on the furniture and carpets because they are so small.

Here is a list of Hypoallergenic Dogs. If I have missed any I do apologize.

  • American Hairless Terrier
  • Basenji
  • Border Terrier
  • Cairn Terrier
  • Chinese Crested (hairless)
  • Havanese
  • Kerry Blue Terrier
  • Maltese
  • Miniature Schnauzer
  • Portuguese Water Dog
  • Shih-Tzu
  • Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
  • Spanish Water Dog
  • Standard Poodle
  • Standard Schnauzer
  • Tibetan Terrier
  • Toy Poodle
  • West Highland White Terrier
  • Wirehaired Fox Terrier
  • Yorkshire Terrier
  • Please remember that no dog is 100% hypoallergenic and also that allergic sufferers react differently to each separate breed of dog.

    For Westhighland Terriers owners, such as myself, the news is good. They are considered good for allergy sufferers, with a relatively low dander (ranked number 7). However you need to be reminded that one person’s allergies may vary greatly from another person. It is always advisable to visit the home of the dog you wish to have, before you bring it home. I hope that you found this article of use to you

    Good health and happiness

    (Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

    German Pinscher Puppy And Dog Information

    Friday, December 29th, 2006

    The German Pinscher makes a very good house dog. They need plenty of exercise and a properly fenced in enclosure for exercise is ideal. They get very attached to their human families and make good watch dogs and good guard dogs. They keep themselves so clean and odor free that they have been compared to cats. They can be well socialized with other pets and older children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

    *Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the German Pinscher is 16 to 19 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 25 to 35 pounds.

    *Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the German Pinscher is no exception. Although they are considered a very healthy breed, be on the look out for skin allergies and sensitivity to vaccinations, especially if several are given at one time. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

    She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

    *Grooming. The German Pinscher has a smooth, close lying, short and dense coat. She is an average shedder and should be brushed regularly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

    Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

    Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.

    *Life Span. The German Pinscher can live between 12 and 14 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

    *History. The German Pinscher comes from Germany. They were first recognized by the United Kennel Club in 1991.

    Some Registries:

    *German Pinscher Club of America

    *UKC United Kennel Club

    *NKC National Kennel Club

    *CKC Continental Kennel Club

    *APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.

    *AKC American Kennel Club

    *FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale

    *NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club

    *KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain

    *ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club

    *ACR = American Canine Registry

    Category: Working

    Terms To Describe: Elegant, strong build, powerful, muscular, agile, energetic, loyal, intelligent, fearless, determined

    *SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

    A very good watchdog.

    Not a barker.

    Almost no dog odor.

    Bonds closely with master.

    They keep themselves very clean.

    Good guard dog.

    *SPECIAL BAD POINTS

    Must be controlled as they may run off.

    Requires plenty of exercise.

    Can be hyperactive if bored.

    *Other Names Known By: Deutscher Pinscher

    *Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

    Dog Obsessive Behavior - Digging Dog

    Thursday, December 28th, 2006

    Obsessive compulsive dog behavior such as chasing tail, digging dog, and barking dog can drive you to distraction, but the dangers to your dog are ever deeper than that. What at first might appear to be dog instinctive behavior by your pup could grow into much more if it becomes a “filler” of his time and energy, a preoccupation, a frequent distraction … then a habit … then obsession. It does not have to be that way, as I will explain.

    Oh, NO!

    Your garden is a mess. Your beautiful, prize-winning garden into which put a lot of back breaking work, irreplaceable time, and loving care… You have tried in vain to fill in the holes, but Patch just keeps digging again and again and again …. It is too much. Regardless of how hard you try, you cannot patch up what Patch has done!

    You look with heartbreak at the digging disaster, but you have not yet seen Patch. Then you do … Patch is one sight to see! Nothing but mud from the tip of his nose to the end of his tail. You sigh, wash Patch, and bring him inside. Outside, he would just go right back to digging.

    The problem in this all-too-common example is that the poor dog is bored out of his brain. Finding some avenue for release, he is compensating for his lack of mental challenge by pouring himself into this activity which he has created on his own. If dogs are not given a mental challenge, they WILL create one!

    Further, Patch has not been corrected in a form he understands or takes seriously. So, as far as he is concerned, no one really has a problem with what he is doing. A little yelling, well, big deal to a compulsive dog. That’s a minor annoyance in the scheme of things, of diving into his compulsion then going inside with the family.

    If Patch is of a herding breed or hunting breed of dog, then take him to a class for this twice a week. You must work with his dog instinctive behavior, as you cannot destroy it. Instinct will take over if you do not work with it. So develop and use his innate skill to give him a source of pride, a mental challenge, a job. Make the time every day, rain or shine, for a good 45 minute walk with him morning and evening, or a combination of walk and run. Get a treadmill for the rainy days if you want to. If you cannot give him what he needs, find someone who will.

    Remember to challenge Patch’s mind. Have him stay at a heel, focused on you, during a walk or run. His challenge is, despite distractions, to stay fully focused on you.

    Dog obsessive behavior does sometimes occur, but it does not have to stay forever. You do not have to have a digging dog. If you suspect a chemical or biological problem, consult an expert in both traditional and natural veterinary medicine or do the research yourself, but do not ignore it. Usually, though it is a matter of sheer boredom. For Patch’s sake and yours, do what is needed for him. Your flowers would clap their leaves together if they could!

    15 Must Know Tips When Travelling With Your Westie

    Wednesday, December 27th, 2006

    Taking your Westie along can make the family vacation more fun for everyone, but only if you plan carefully. Here are some tips to make travelling with your West Highland White Terrier more enjoyable.

    Health and Safety

    No 1: - Bring your Westie to the vet for a check up before going on a long trip.

    No 2: - Make sure all his vaccinations are up to date. Also take vaccination records with

    you. Health certifications are required for airline travel.

    No 3: - To keep your Westie healthy as you travel, bring along a supply of his regular food

    and some local, or bottled, water.

    No 4: - Be sure to bring any medications your Westie needs. These have to be prescribed by

    your vet.

    A crate is an excellent way to keep your Westie safe in the car and is required for airline travel. It can also keep your pet from getting into trouble in a hotel or at your host’s home. Crates are available from most pet supply stores.

    Look for these features when purchasing:

    No 5: - Large enough to allow the dog to stand, turn and lie down.

    No 6: - Strong, with handles and grips, and free of interior protrusions. Leak-proof bottom covered with absorbent material.

    No 7: - Ventilation on opposing sides, with exterior rims or knobs to prevent blocked

    airflow.

    No 8: - “Live Animal” label, arrows upright, with owner’s name, address and phone number.

    No 9: - Stock the crate with a comfortable mat, your dog’s favourite toy, and a water

    bottle, and your dog is ready to go

    No 10: - Consider a permanent form of identification, such as a microchip This is something

    that you should do whether you travel or not. So many things can happen to separate your

    dog from his identification tags. Microchips and tattoos are always there. The cost is

    relatively low.

    For Lodging:

    No 11: - Find out in advance which hotels or motels at your destination or on your route allow dogs. Many do not, or have size or breed restrictions. If your West highland terrier is allowed to stay at a hotel, respect other guests, staff and the property.

    No 12: - Keep your Westie as quiet as possible.

    No 13: - Do not leave him unattended. Many dogs will bark or destroy property if left alone in a strange place. Crate him when he is left alone –turn on the TV.

    Prepare For Health Problems that are Common To Most Travellers:

    No 14: - Constipation can plague travelling pets. It can be caused by lack of exercise or water, infrequent stops or anxiety about strange new territories. Temporary constipation is not a serious problem and will usually clear up before long. For a Westie, you can prepare a useful preventive with figs, prunes and raisins as well as fresh berries or other fruits in season. Bran or psyllium husks are also helpful.

    No 15: - Nausea grips some animals when they ride in a car or plane, and they will either vomit or salivate excessively. The B-complex supplementation will help prevent nausea. Also, encourage your Westie to lie down on the floor of the car as a preventive.

    Tips of How to Keep Your Shih Tzu Safe during the Holidays

    Tuesday, December 26th, 2006

    The “end of the year” holidays can present some particular hazards to the health of your Shih Tzu, and consequently to your peace of mind. Here are some ideas that have worked for many people to make this time a happy one for all.

    Make sure you check your vet’s holiday hours and emergency contacts and have the information easily accessible.

    Think before you decorate with plants. Shih Tzu will all nibble household plants. Many household plants including mistletoe and some poinsettias can make your Shih Tzu very ill. Make sure your holiday plants are out of your Shih Tzu’s reach.

    If you have a Christmas tree, you should put only unbreakable decorations at the bottom of your tree, so there is no danger of your Shih Tzu batting a glass ball and breaking it, or the Shih Tzu chewing your grandmother’s antique bubble lights.

    If you have a live tree in water, wrap the base so your Shih Tzu can’t decide to take a drink of the water. Many modern live trees have been sprayed with chemicals that may be toxic to your Shih Tzu.

    Be very, very careful about candles. Your Shih Tzu may be enticed by the flicker of the flame, and may singe his whiskers or worse. Place glass “hurricane lanterns” or other attractive covers over candles to protect your home and your Shih Tzu.

    Think ahead to New Years Eve, and plan how to keep your Shih Tzu from becoming frightened by the traditional firecrackers and other noisy merriment. Some Shih Tzu may be severely traumatized by fireworks, be sure to leave them inside if you go out to celebrate.

    Shih Tzu may be stressed by the changes in household routine during the holidays, especially if you are stressed yourself. Some cats and dogs respond to stress by becoming hyper or hysterical, and some simply retreat. Plan to spend some special time with your Shih Tzu to calm yourself and reassure them during this period, and if your Shih Tzu is especially upset with strangers visiting, prepare a “refuge” he can go to and escape the “maddening crowd.”

    Have yourself a very Merry Christmas and New Year with your Shih Tzu by your side.

    This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

    Dumb Dogs

    Monday, December 25th, 2006

    For example, “Come here! You dumb dog.” Why would the dog want to come back if it left for a reason and is it laughing at you for calling it dumb?

    Your new puppy is now at its new home. Checking out its new home, it has its first accident. You scold the puppy, “bad dog!” It’s time to go to bed. The puppy is put on its new bed to sleep that you got especially for it. It cries and cries. You have been told to put an alarm clock beside the puppy in its bed so it will think the clock ticking is the heart beat of its mother. This doesn’t work. Next, the hot water bottle, it will think the bottle is the warmth of its mother and will be content and go to sleep. That idea doesn’t work either. You need to get some sleep but there is no way to sleep with a new puppy crying. Next plan, pick it up, cuddle and talk to it. Finally, it goes to sleep so you lay it back down in its bed. You are awakened by the pitiful whimpering of a baby. Picking up the puppy again, holding it close to you on your chest. It is now quiet and asleep. You fall asleep also.

    Hurry! Get to the door. Whoops! Too late. Another accident. It’s not really the puppy’s fault. You slept in to late because you were tired from not getting enough sleep. It had to go and couldn’t get to the door quick enough. The day goes on trying to get it out each time it squats or acts like it has to go outside. Each day is a new task, both you and the puppy are learning. It has learned that going to the door and scratching on it with its paw will get him out and in when it wants. It becomes a constant thing and you are wearing yourself out going back and forth to the door. You put your foot down and say, “That’s enough, in or out?”

    When it comes to playing, dogs are always ready. Most dogs love to play ball. You throw the balls, the dog runs for the ball. “Bring it here.” You say. The dog gets the ball and brings it part way back. You are now chasing the dog in order to get the ball from it. It runs around while you chase it and then it drops it when you finally get to it. You throw the ball again. The dog does the same thing. You chase him again to get the ball. You throw it one more time, the dog runs but you decide that the dog is just not getting it so you give up. The dog comes over to you with the ball and drops it at your feet. Who’s the dumb one here?

    Let’s go get the mail. The dog decides it wants to help carry the mail in. You give it a piece of junk to carry. You figure the dog will chew it up anyway. It carries the mail proudly in the house and drops it on the floor. Pretty darn smart, huh? Each day it carries in a piece of mail right in the house. One day, instead of carrying the mail in the house, it decides to veer off from the back steps and take the mail in the back yard. The chase is on, catch me if you can. It’s time to have some fun with momma.

    The sun is shinning through the window in the living room while you are enjoying having your morning coffee. Your dog comes in the living room with something white in its mouth. It has dad’s socks. You tell it to bring the socks to you. It comes almost within reach and then turns sharply to the left. You call the dog again. It comes almost close enough for you to touch the socks and it jerks back again. Finally, it brings the socks to you. That’s one way to get attention.

    Now it is time to leave the dog by itself in the house. First time will be for a short time. Your dog goes to the door as you are leaving but you tell it that it has to stay. It looks confused and pitiful standing there. You hate to leave it by itself but know you have to teach it that it will have to stay by itself some times. You are only gone a half hour. When you return the toilet paper is strung the whole length of the house. The book you had been reading, left on the couch, now looks like it has gone through a shredder. It has to be scolded. It isn’t allowed on the furniture but after leaving it the next time, you only pretend to leave. You pretend to lock the door and go outside. Opening and closing the car door so it thinks you are leaving, you go to the window and look inside. Your dog has decided to make itself at home and have a seat up on the couch. You run in the house quickly in order to catch it on the couch. Your dog is standing on the floor looking at you and wagging its tail.

    Some people believe in reincarnation. Some people believe that when you are reincarnated that you come back as a dog. Some times when you talk to your dog, it seems to know what you are saying. Anything is possible but dogs are not so dumb, are they?

    Obedience Training for Your Dog is a Must!

    Sunday, December 24th, 2006

    How many times have you been in a public place with your dog, and he / she refuses to listen, or even urinates somewhere they shouldn’t? It happens all the time to numerous people every single day! What about your dog growling or barking at new guests over at your house? Does your dog whine at the site of table food? For many people these problems and many more have become a part of everyday life.

    These problems are very serious and should be addressed. A spoiled dog can easily be turned into a biting dog without any warning. Numerous studies have linked undisciplined dogs to biting and other forms of aggression. Nobody likes to be sued either! The way some people are in todays world, it wouldn’t be surprising if you were taken to court over a simple incident involving your dog no matter how minor it is.

    Yelling at or trying to intimidate your dog may seem like the right thing to do at the moment, but that can have a crucial impact with trust issues and / or relationships with them. It can be very frustrating trying to keep a dog under control. Thousands of people simply give up hope, and do nothing to solve any of these problems. That is a huge mistake! Why live year after year with a dog that doesn’t listen, tears up furniture, growls at guests, begs for table food, and other numerous issues. Something must be done!

    Hiring an obedience trainer could be the answer. If you have plenty of money to spare, I say go for it! It may be expensive, but it is very much worth the price. However, if you are like me, you don’t have spare money to pay an obedience trainer. Obedience trainers can cost upwards of $500 to $5000! There has to be another way.

    Stable Cleaning

    Saturday, December 23rd, 2006

    At some stage in your life as a horse owner, you may find it

    necessary to stable your horse. It may only be for a couple of

    nights, a week or a more permanent situation. No matter your

    reason or the length of your horses stay, it is important that

    you clean the stable at least once a day.

    So you arrive at your horse’s stable with a cheery “Good

    Morning!”. You organize their breakfast, change there pajamas

    (rugs), maybe go for an early morning ride (nice and chilly on

    those crisp winter mornings). But no matter what else you do,

    there is one thing every owner of a stabled horse must do. And

    that is to clean up the mess, from the night before.

    What a mess!! It really amazes me the mess one horse can make

    within 8-10 hours! I have been greeted with a wide variety of

    “Good Morning” situations from my horses over the years. From

    finding poo in the feed dish (which is still hanging on the

    door!), to finding poo right in front of the door in the walk

    way! No matter the mess, it still needs to be cleaned up. Not

    only can a dirty or poorly cleaned stable cause diseases to

    fester but it will smell bad too.

    Here are some simply steps to help you in cleaning out your

    stable!

    You will need a good stable fork/rake and a wheelbarrow or

    bucket.

    It is always helpful if you can remove your horse from the

    stable. This way you aren’t worried about him/her escaping. If

    you can’t make sure they are tied up securely.

    Remove any other objects which may get in your way, such as

    water buckets and horse toys.

    Using your stable fork/rake remove all large visible piles of

    poo.

    Remove any obvious wet patches.

    Starting on either your left or right in a circular pattern

    around the stable, toss a fork full of stable bedding towards

    the side of the stable, remove any poo or wet that this process

    uncovers.

    Remember to dig down to the floor so that all the bedding gets

    exposed, and continue till you are back to where you started.

    Your stable bedding should now be all piled up around the sides

    of the stable and the floor exposed. If the floor seems wet

    (will be in most cases) it is great if you can leave it exposed

    for a few hours to dry out.

    Starting at either the right or left, pull the bedding down from

    the edge with your stable rake, so that the bedding comes back

    to its original level and covers the previously exposed floor.

    Continue around till you are back at the start.

    You may find that you need to smooth out the bedding so that it

    is level and covers the floor evenly.

    I have always found it a good idea to leave an area in front of

    the door free from bedding, this will help reduce the bedding

    that gets ‘walked’ or ‘kicked’ out by your horse.

    You may find that when cleaning, some bedding drifts into the

    water. It is always a good idea to clean out your horses’ water

    after finishing the stable.

    It may be necessary to add some new bedding to you stable, this

    is usually done once a week, but depends on your horse.

    It will also be necessary to remove all bedding from your stable

    on a regular base. This will depend on numerous factors and is

    up to your discretion. If it is getting smelly - then its time

    for a full clean out!

    Now that you’re done, you can enjoy some quality time with your

    beloved horse!

    Happy Horsing

    Tina Williamson

    Gifts-for-the-Horse-Lover.com

    For that special Horse Gift

    5 Things You Didn’t Know About A Yorkshire Terrier

    Friday, December 22nd, 2006

    Many assume that, because the Yorkie is such a small dog, it will have few needs. This is not true. As with any breed, the Yorkie has elements that may make it your perfect pet… or the worst choice you could make. Before deciding on any dog, you must consider certain aspects.

    One: grooming. The Yorkie has a good deal of hair that requires high maintenance. You must brush every day and clip regularly. Though this breed sheds little to no hair, which makes it excellence for allergy sufferers or those concerned with ruining furniture, it still requires extensive care. Many owners chose to have their Yorkies professionally groomed, but this costs money. If you are not willing to take the time to have your Yorkie groomed, or to do it yourself, this is not the breed for you.

    Two: health concerns. Though the Yorkie is a sturdy dog, it is still a little one and prone to certain problems. Its size makes it likely to get hurt more easily from a fall or roughhousing. This does not make it suitable for families with young children. Also, Yorkies can suffer from teeth problems. The best way to handle this is to use dry food only to build up strength, and have regular Vet visits. Finally, if you intend to breed Yorkies, you must realize that females can have problems delivering due to their size.

    Three: exercise. Yorkies are, by nature, active dogs. Routine exercise will be at minimal since they will keep themselves busy during the day. Still, these dogs love to go for walks or to play in the yard. You must make sure they are secure, however, as they might run away. A Yorkie has high hunting instincts and is inclined to chase.

    Four: training. The Yorkie is a bit of a contradiction. Though it can be easily trained, it will ignore that training when it sees fit. This can make it appear to be a breed of lesser intelligence. This is not true. Yorkies are actually quite clever and capable of handling most problems. They just also happen to be stubborn creatures. Training will be a constant thing and will require time and attention.

    Five: temperament. Yorkies are blessed with that infectious, fearless Terrier temperament. This is both a blessing and a curse for owners. These dogs demand your time and attention. Also, they will do as they please–this extends to chasing down whatever animal happens to cross their path if they are able (including dogs as large as Great Danes). Because of this fiery nature, Yorkies require an owner with patience and a disciplined mind. Your Yorkie will be devoted to you; he just might not always listen.

    If any of these characteristics seem too overwhelming, the Yorkie–or any other Terrier–is probably not for you. These are not timid animals and do not need timid owners. Instead, you must be willing to face the challenges of owning this breed for, with those challenges, comes a wonderful pet.