Pet Information

Having a collection of striking fish in your living room that are normally only found in the ocean provides serenity and is a great attraction for family and friends visiting your home. Although it may seem difficult to maintain or expensive to setup, having saltwater fish differs little from a normal tank.

One of the first steps in having a saltwater fish tank in your home is a review of your finances to determine that you have enough money to start and maintain your tank. Approximate start-up costs for a saltwater fish tank are around $500 (USD), which doesn’t include the cost of fish or the upkeep.

The next step is to determine where your tank is going to be located and what type and size of tank you are going to purchase. Some tanks are small enough to sit on a table, while others come with their own stands. Particularly large tanks may require structural support so that the floor can bear the additional weight. When choosing the location for your tank, keep in mind its accessibility in regards to cleaning and maintenance. You must also select whether to have a glass or acrylic tank. Glass is easier to clean, but you can drill holes in acrylic tanks that allow filtration to occur out of sight underneath the tank.

After purchasing your tank you must buy other needed equipment such as a filter, air pump, and heater. You also need to choose a bed for the tank and a saltwater mixture which will create the best conditions for your fish.

Once you have purchased all your items except your fish, assemble your tank and test it out to make sure it runs properly. Once you’re certain it works okay, continue to let cycle, making adjustments to get the tank to its optimal level for the fish you are going to purchase. Once this is done, it’s time to take a trip to select your fish. The ocean, where saltwater fish live, is the largest of all the water bodies. It’s home to millions of species – playful, colourful, savage and awe inspiring, and many of these varieties are appropriate and available for saltwater tanks. When you bring your fish home, keep the fish in the bag and place it in the tank. This will allow the fish to adjust to the temperature in your tank. After a few hours, add one-fourth cup of tank water to the bag to let the fish adjust slowly to the water, and within an hour, repeat this step four times. After that you can put the fish directly into the tank or hold it in a quarantine tank for a few days or weeks until you certain it is healthy and able to thrive in your tank water. This is highly recommended if you are adding this fish to a tank already housing other fish, as one sick fish can kill all the others in your tank.

Having a saltwater fish tank not only adds beauty but is also quite easy to do. Once you have purchased all your equipment, tested it out, bought your fish and attuned it to your tank, it’s time to sit back, relax, and enjoy the ease of keeping saltwater fish in your home and what they add to it.If you are looking for more information then please feel free to visit our site at http://www.saltwater-fishtank.com

The fact that the doe chose solitude place to deliver and raise her young ones, can make the hunting easier for the hunter if he can locate them. The doe might leave her place for sometime, but she always comes back to that place as long as it is safe from enemies and there is food. In this article you will read on natural of the deer to help you for better hunting.

Some of the more important facts (from the hunter’s viewpoint) which I learned about deer habits may be best stated by presenting a brief sketch of the life of a deer. It is best to use a doe for example because she is the most important unit of the herd. She does the reproducing, is responsible for the training and is the leader of the family group. Her life begins when she leaves the winter yard during her first pregnancy. Before this time, she has been learning the things that she must pass along to future generations and most of her actions have been under the direction or supervision of other deer. At this time she becomes a separate and distinct unit representative of the herd.

When the herd leaves the yard in the spring of the year, each doe leaves the rest of the animals and seeks a place where she can deliver and raise her young without interference. If there are not too many other deer in the region, she will pick a place where she will be alone; otherwise she will pick an area as far removed from other deer as possible. Why a doe with the herd instinct of deer should seek solitude for a portion of her life, is a question which I have not tried to answer. The fact that she does is sufficient for deer hunting purposes.

After finding a satisfactory spot, the doe makes herself familiar with the surrounding country. This area will probably be her home range for the remainder of her life, spending most of her time within the boundaries of this area with short trips to other nearby ranges. Sometimes these excursions away from home are made for no apparent reason and sometimes natural enemies cause her to leave home for a time. She always returns as long as there is food and comparative safety on the home range.

The size of this range varies in different localities, with food and shelter being the determining factors. In my section, this home range seldom extends more than two miles from a central point. Somewhere on this range, the doe bears her young. A single fawn is usual in first pregnancies, although twins are not uncommon. As soon as the fawn is able to follow its mother, they travel the range together. They find or make the trails which they use, select their favorite bedding grounds, become familiar with the food possibilities, find the danger spots, as well as the safe ones, and when the hunting season starts, they are probably more familiar with their home range than the average man is with his home town.

During the rutting season the doe will be visited by a buck. This will probably be the only contact she will have with other deer unless there are other family groups nearby and the ranges overlap. There might be meetings of the two groups while they are occupying the common range. One group will seldom leave its range to follow another group, each usually returning to its own territory.

As soon as snow comes, the fresh vegetation and green type of food becomes scarce, and the deer join other family groups in an area where there is browse and shelter. They then spend the winter in a yard in the company of other deer. Even in the yard, if it is a large one, the herd seems to divide into family groups, mature bucks joining groups of their choice.

Sometimes the deer are much more familiar with their home range than those who are hunting for them. They may settle to some place else but are always around the range of their place where they raise their new ones, which give the advantage for the hunters to locate them.

Dogs are arguably one of the best companions that a human can find, so it goes without saying that getting one has probably crossed your mind at least once before. If you have gone beyond just thinking about it and have begun to seriously consider the option of getting a dog, then it is important to know what you will be getting into. It is very easy to see the appeal of owning a dog, but there are many responsibilities and commitments that are involved.

For one thing, owning a dog is a usually a 10-15 year commitment, since that is how long a typical dog will live. This means that your dog will be with you through whatever life stages you live through, including dating, marrying, and having children.

Along with this, having an adorable, friendly canine companion around you for so many years will inevitably lead to some attachment. No one likes to think about death, but sooner or later the reality of mortality will come into full view, and you should be prepared to deal with the loss. If you are married with children at the time of your loss, the pain will affect more people than just yourself.

Dogs, just like children, require a lot of your time and attention. Though they don’t need constant attention 24 hours a day, seven days a week, they do require you to spend at least a few hours a day to play around and exercise outside. Dogs that do not receive enough attention or care may develop behavioral issues.

Dogs will also be very affectionate and will want to be around you for much of the time you are at home. They will even sleep near you when they take naps and may even want to sleep in the same bed as you. Be prepared to take a firm stance on this if you do not want your dog to sleep in the same bed as you do.

On the other side of the coin, not all the time you spend with your dog will be fun. They require you to feed them, give them water, clean them, and pick up after them. Periodic visits to the vet are also something you should be prepared for. Whether it’s for a yearly checkup, an examination regarding an illness, or emergency visits, visits to the veterinarian will cost you some money.

After talking about all of the responsibility of owning a dog, it should also be noted that there is a great deal of comfort, joy, and fun that come with having a dog. They are not nicknamed “man’s best friend” for no reason. After experiencing the joys of having a dog, all of the responsibilities and commitments listed above pale in comparison and won’t even be burdensome when you realize who you are taking care of.

Dogs

Natural horsemanship has become very popular in the last few years, with Pat Parelli’s name at the top of the list of trainers using this method. He has his own unique program in place for horse owners to follow, or to at least take into consideration when working with their horses. One of the great things about natural horsemanship is that you can use the methods on your young horse that has not yet been worked with, or on an older horse that you would like to help.

Parelli makes getting started relatively easy. He has taken the first steps and made them into games that you can ‘play’ involving your horse. Parelli uses language and communication that he says is used by horses to establish friendship and leadership. The order of the games is important so you should follow them through from beginning to end. All you will need for the games is your horse, a hope halter and a long lead rope.

The Friendly Game is the first game. This game proves you are a friend to the horse and can be trusted. You should start quietly and with smooth movements at first, especially if your horse is nervous. Run your hands all over your horse and then move on to using the lead rope. After your horse accepts the lead rope, you can add things like plastic bags, blankets or anything you have handy.

The second game is called the Porcupine Game. This game teaches your horse to move away from pressure and not lean into it. Use your fingers to apply pressure, starting with gentle pressure and moving to stronger pressure if the horse does not respond. He will learn that if he moves away from the pressure, the release is his reward.

The Driving Game is the third game. This will teach your horse to move away from implied pressure. You will not actually touch him, but will suggest for him to move with your gestures. Start out at close range and work your way away from your horse. You can start by asking your horse to move his head. Ask him first by pushing your hands towards him, but not touching him. If he does not move, gently tap him and then use stronger pressure until he responds. As soon as you get a response, stop and pat him.

The fourth game is the Yo-Yo Game. This game will help you get your horse moving backwards as well as forward, without having to pull on the lead rope for either direction. You face your horse and get his full attention focused on you. Leave the lead rope loose and start wiggling your index finger. At first your horse will not move so take the next step and move your whole arm along with your finger. This will make the rope start moving which should get your horse to back up. Eventually, your horse should move back with you only having to wiggle your finger.

The Circle Game is the fifth game and may look like lunging. In this game you will send your horse around in a circle, he will maintain the gait and direction until you ask him to stop. He should face you and swing his hindquarters away from you. Start by pointing your arm and lead rope in the direction you want your horse to go. You may have to encourage him at first by swinging the lead rope towards his hindquarters with your other hand. Once he is moving, keep your feet still. When you want him to stop, gently pull on the lead rope and have him face you waiting on your next command.

The sixth game is called the Sideways Game. This will involve things you learned from the Porcupine Game. You should use light pressure on your horse’s shoulder and hindquarters to get him to move sideways. Move the shoulder a little, and then even him up by moving the hindquarters.

The seventh and last game is called the Squeeze Game. Since horses are claustrophobic by nature, this may not come easy to some, but it will help your horse learn to calmly move through tight spaces without panicking. Start with a gap between you and a fence, wall or barrel. Send your horse through by pointing the lead rope with your arm outstretched. Once your horse can move through this gap, make the gap smaller and smaller until your horse is just able to go through without touching anything. This game is great for helping your horse load into a trailer.

These games can be done by anyone on any horse and will help open a line of communication between horse and rider. You will see that these games not only help to handle your horse on the ground, but he will also seem more calm and attentive under saddle.

For a long time I’ve felt, believed and experienced that nutrition is key to health. Junk goes in and the result is poor health. Maybe not immediately but definitely it will add up to a toxic level and cause poor health. This goes for all living things. No one or being lives forever, obviously, however we want to extend the time we have and make the time we have a healthy one.

During my hundreds and hundreds of hours research in investigating dog foods I found the most remarkable things. Some of what I found was shocking and other facts were down right disgusting. For starters, the dog food industry is totally unregulated meaning that manufacturers can, and do, put whatever they want into “food”. There are documented reports of animal waste products, ground up dog carcasses, non human edible grade products, and other animal wastes put into dog foods. These acts are not myths or legends unfortunately.

Among the ingredients in about 99.99% of dog foods you find sugar, salt, corn, phosphates, artificial flavors and colorings. It appears as if the simple dog food has turned into a fast food garbage dump.

Dogs are naturally carnivores and scavengers however since their domestication they have relied on human help in the nutrition arena. As we have moved from fresh foods to processed foods so have our dogs. Just like us our dogs have now inherited human like modern diseases (from cancer, diabetes, and skin ailments to early death).

Veterinarian Dr Jane Bicks has written that dogs should be living in the range of 18-25 years old. This has been supported by friends of mine from other countries where dogs who eat “closer to the earth” commonly live to those ages. Basically we are killing our dog with processed foods.

I must admit to having certain biases based upon personal experience, knowledge about health, and what I’ve learned. For example, there is a lot of literature on the inability of animals to assimilate fractioned nutrition. What is fractionated nutrition? It is vitamins and supplements. Check the super market or even some of the premium dog food brands and you’ll find them packed with vitamins and supplements. But, that doesn’t mean they are good!

Let me explain. The processing of and extracting of “nutritional value” causes molecular differences between food and these “vitamins”. The result is that the body doesn’t assimilate it. Here are list of some of the things you loose with fractionated vitamins over foods: compound vitamins and minerals, trace minerals, enzymes, flavonoids, carotenoids, pigments, terpenes, chlorophyll, coenzymes, covitamins, amino acids and much more.

Animals aren’t designed to consume fractionated nutrition. Animals are designed to consume food not chemicals. The concept that altered nutrition fulfills the body’s requirements is false. This goes for all animals not just humans.

So, the movement toward providing dogs with raw (such as the BARF diet) and pure foods is a fantastic one. As a dog owner I know it can be rough to provide and shop for my dogs like they are humans but it is necessary for them to be healthy and live long lives.

More and more people are beginning to make their dog’s food at home rather than buying commercial formulas. Homemade dog food doesn’t contain any substances that could possibly be harmful to your dog’s health such as artificial coloring and artificial flavors.

Another reason to make homemade dog food is the preservatives added to the commercial dog food. Homemade dog food has the benefit of optimum freshness without preservatives.

There are dogs that would greatly benefit from a homemade diet. Some dogs who suffer from allergies that cause severe itching may find relief once switched from commercial dog food to a homemade diet.

Processed dog food is a relatively new product and scientists don’t fully understand the differences between commercial food and a diet of fresh food. There may be problems occurring in a dog’s health because he is being given food that has had the nutrients cooked out of it and then sprayed back on.

It’s also possible that the extremely high heat used to produce commercial dog food may alter the protein structure in the meats used. It’s not proven whether such protein alteration negatively affects a dog’s health, and since dogs seem to maintain their regular health during regulated feeding trials most people feel that commercial food is good enough to maintain their dog’s health.

What if you want more than to give your dog a food that is “good enough”. There are many recipes you can use. There are ebooks available with a variety of recipes that will provide your dog a well-rounded diet full of nutrition and every vitamin and mineral he needs.

There are certain foods you want to avoid, such as fatty meats, cured meat, (sausage, bacon, hot dogs), any fried foods and raw pork. You also want to avoid any milk, cream, ice cream, pastries, white bread, sugary foods, grapes, raisins and onions. Also, keep in mind that anything you consider to be junk food would not be good for your dog.

Healthy foods to give your dog would include raw or cooked lean cuts of meat: beef, poultry, lamb, whitefish and fatty fish (like salmon). Also included in a healthy diet are cooked grains, eggs (raw or cooked), finely chopped or ground raw vegetables (remember, no onions), and bits of fruit (again, remember to give your dog no raisons or grapes).

These are just the basics. There are books on the subject that provide great recipes and a full list of good foods and foods to stay away from.

A basic formula for a homemade diet would be 50 percent protein, 25 percent vegetables (ground so they are easy to digest), and 25 percent grain (such as rice and oatmeal). Add to that some supplements of certain vitamins, minerals, and oils rich in omega-3 for healthy skin and coat.

There are some pets that do not do well on a homemade diet so be sure to check with your vet before making any changes to your dog’s diet. After making the change, pay attention to how your dog responds. Not all dogs thrive on a homemade diet.

Some dogs may have trouble adjusting and others might not like the food or suffer from temporary digestive upset. Slowly changing the dog’s diet, gradually giving more of the homemade food and less of the commercial, can help alleviate stomach upset.

If you have the time it takes to prepare your dog’s food, or feel very strongly about providing your dog with the best diet possible, a diet of homemade food can’t be beat.

Chewing is a common problem in all dogs. Your Maltese is chewing because he may be bored, lonely or stressed. If you have a Maltese puppy that chews, he could be teething.

Here are some training tips on how to stop your Maltese from chewing.

1. If chewing is a problem for your Maltese, keep him in a restricted area when not under your supervision. If you are not able to keep an eye on your dog, place him in a crate and provide him with chew toys. Do not let him roam freely in your house until he’s been trained not to chew.

2. Use deterrents such as bitter spray or cayenne pepper on table legs, wooden furniture and carpet to discourage your Maltese from chewing. They are ideal for items that you cannot keep out of reach from your dog. You will still need to provide toys for your dog to chew. Do not give an old shoe or furniture. Otherwise, your dog may think that it is ok to chew on similar items.

3. When you catch your Maltese chewing, tell him ‘NO’ firmly and give him a chew toy instead. Praise him enthusiastically when he chews on the toy. You must only correct him when you catch him in the act.

4. Give your Maltese a variety of chew toys to keep him occupied. Each week, alternate his toys so he has something different to play with.

5. If your Maltese is chewing because he is bored or lonely, make sure he gets plenty of physical and mental exercise. You are more likely to have a well-behaved, healthy and happy dog. Bring him for a long walk, a run or play with him. In addition to obedience and behaviour training, teach your dog new tricks. He enjoys learning them if you praise or reward him with his favourite treats. Exercise can also help to relieve tension and overcome boredom in your dog, thereby preventing most behaviour problems.

6. If you take time to puppy proof your home, there is less chance of your Maltese finding valuable things to chew. Keep hazardous items such as electric cords, chemicals, sharp objects and poisonous house plants out of reach from your dog. Besides training your Maltese to stop chewing, you are also preventing potential accidents from happening to him.

It takes time, patience and consistency to train your Maltese from chewing. If you find a method that works, apply it consistently in your Maltese training. If none of the above methods work, you may want to consider using an anti-bark collar.

Dogs are just like people when it comes to liking something. They have different tastes and feelings towards different things. Certain dogs may like one taste of dog food while another may not even give it a chance. The only way to know what your dog will like for dog treats is to try different ones and go from there.

There are so many different kinds and tastes when it comes to dog treats. The different flavors may not be as agreeing with all dogs. The only way to know if your dog will like a certain dog treat is to give him one and see what the dog’s reaction is. If the dog likes this particular dog treat, then he will surely let you know by wagging his tail, and licking his lips.

If the dog hates this dog treat, chances are he will drop it to the ground, sniff it and walk away all after he gives you a very dissatisfying look. This is how most dogs would react. Some dogs may even bark at you as if to say, “what were you thinking”. However, this is the only way that you will ever know if the dog agrees with your choice in treats or not.

If you have more than one dog, you may find that they all like a different treat. If this is the case, then you will have to buy more than one brand of dog treat. When this happens, it may be hard to keep them straight especially if you have a few dogs. The best way to keep the dog treats separate and know which one is for what dog, you will have to put them in separate containers and mark them.

There is crunchy, soft, sweat, and salty dog treats available. There are so many that you will be sure to find a few dog treats that your dog will love.

Keeping the dog treats in airtight containers with lids will keep them safe and secure from the dogs as well. They will not be able to help themselves when they feel like it. Use clear plastic or glass containers and write the dogs name on the outside of the container so that you know what dog treats are for what dog. This will make your life a whole lot easier because you will not be mixing up the treats. That will make your dog just as happy and satisfied as you are.

Anemia is defined as an overall reduction in the number of red blood cells within the bloodstream. The overall consequence of anemia is the inability of the blood to supply desired levels of oxygen to the tissues throughout the body. The signs of anemia include pallor in the mouth and around the eyes, (loss of normal pink color), gradual weakness, and the inability to exercise, rapid breathing, and an unsettled behavior.

The three major causes of anemia are (1) Destruction of red blood cells by parasites, poisons, bacterial toxins, and immune reactions. (2) Loss of blood as a result of accidents, poisoning, bleeding ulcers, and parasites such as hookworms or whipworms. (3) Reduced or abnormal production of new red blood cells in the bone marrow due to tumors, poisons, acute infections, kidney disease, and most frequently by vitamin and mineral deficiencies caused by poor diet.

A simple blood test performed by your veterinarian can tell you if your dog is anemic. Treatment of anemia depends on the cause. While treating the cause, the vet may also give your dog anti-anemic drugs such as iron supplements and vitamins, while putting him on a strict diet to speed up his recovery. Additionally, you shouldn’t overtire your dog during his recovery, rest is important. Anemia as well as any other disorders can be spotted early if you take your pet to the vet twice a year.

One of the biggest question asked of the discus breeder is “how do I determine the sex of my fish?” There are very few easy identifiable identifiers in this process. Here, we will discuss the methods used by some of the top breeders.

In juvenile fish, determining sex is almost impossible. It is only when they begin to pair off that an opportunity arises to help in the determination of sex. Juvenile fish, both male and female, have a rounded dorsal fin, and it is not until they begin to mature that a difference can be detected. As it is never wise to excessively handle the fish, close observation is in order to aid the breeder.

In Allnut Enterprises’ King Discus Hatchery, for example, it is an easy process to determine who is who, as we have observed these fish for a while, and can determine the sex of the pairs we own. This would be true in any hatchery. But to the uninitiated or casual observer, this would not be easy to do.

Some of the identifiers: The male will have thicker lips to aid him in his fight to protect the female, and will be more aggressive. He will be larger than the female, his forehead is thicker, and we have observed that if the discus are a bit shy, the male will have a tendency to stay between the female and the observer.

The dorsal fin of the male will be pointed, and the female’s dorsal fin will be rounded. Note that in juvenile discus, this is not apparent.

The breeding tube of the female, between the anus and anal fin, is broader and rounder than the male, and will have a blunt tip. The male, in turn, has a smaller, sharper breeding tube. Be aware that this is only evident during spawning, and should be closely observed.

It has been said that the male discus fish will tend to have a less intense color and more pattern while the female tends to be more colorful but with lesser pattern. I disagree, because too many variables are in place here, such as the health of the discus, the water parameters, and feeding pattern.

In an interesting article by Jeff Richard, he discusses an article from Diskus Brief, a German publication, which reports a very successful way of determine sex of a discus by using simple geometry. Jeff reports, and I quote: “Picture a discus facing to your left … you would be looking at its side. Find the Dorsal (Top) and Anal (bottom) fins and look where the fins slope down toward the Caudal (tail) fin … make sure you’re looking at the fins after they have curved back toward the tail. The Dorsal and Anal Fins become (almost) straight after the fins curve down (or up) toward the Caudal Fin … extend an imaginary line along this straight section of the 2 fins back toward the tail which just touches the Dorsal & Anal Fins past the Caudal Fin. These two imaginary lines should intersect behind the fish. The key to sexing the fish is where the lines cross the Caudal fin. If they pass through the Caudal Fin, the fish is most likely a FEMALE. If they miss or just touch the Caudal Fin, then most likely it is a MALE.” Thanks, Jeff!

Sexing Discus is difficult at best. The easiest way to do so is to raise a group of at least six to eight discus, and allow them to pair off when ready. It is a beautiful sight to see this happen, and makes the hobby well worthwhile.