Pet Information

1. Keep your pregnant cat indoors.

Don’t expose an expecting kitty to danger. But there are more reasons. Some queens go into heat even during pregnancy. Cats are capable of being pregnant of two different litters at the same time. And of course, a pregnant cat should not give birth in a cold place outside.

2. Give your kitty the right food.

It should be high on calcium and protein. Kitten food is specially designed to meet the need of pregnant and nursing felines. Vitamin supplements are recommended too.

3. Do not give any medication during pregnancy.

A pregnant cat should get medication only in emergency. The same goes for deworming products, or products against fleas. If she has worms or fleas, first consult your vet.

4. Make your cat a comfortable nest bed.

A box filled with newspaper usually does the trick. Put in a warm sheltered place, preferably a location your cat frequently visits. Make sure all is ready two weeks before birth.

5. Find a home for your kittens - before they are born.

It will give you peace of mind to know where the kittens will go. Finding a home for a kitty can be time consuming. You’ll have more time for that before they are born.

6. Use non-clumping litter for her box.

Sometimes cats give birth in the litter box. If a kitten is delivered in clumping litter, the mother kitty might refuse to clean her newborn off as the clump is all over the sac. And the baby drowns in its own fluid.

7. Keep other cats away from her.

You have more than one kitty? Your pregnant cat wants privacy. She doesn’t like the company of other cats during this period, even if she knows these cats very well.

8. Buy enough food for your kitty… and you.

You should have no reason to leave your kitty alone on the days before and after birth.

9. Check which vet is available.

Have a piece of paper with the phone number of the closest emergency veterinary clinic. If there’s no such clinic in your area, find out which vet is available for emergency care. One phone call to a local vet is usually enough.

10. Get the right information about cat pregnancy.

Only if you understand what you see and hear, you will be able to recognize complications. Plus… there are many problems you can solve yourself, if you know how. So, do not panic. Get the right information instead.

Because you maintain a hectic calendar, you probably have to leave your dog at home alone on many an occasion. The good thing is that dogs act as guards who keep strangers and intruders away from your property. There have been innumerable cases of burglary, however, where the dog doors were used as the point of entry. The plain hanging screen dog doors are major attractions for burglars as they prove easy to be opened. The bad thing is your poor dog needs to get in and out of the house when you’re not there.

To keep this from happening to you, buy electronic dog doors instead. Electronic dog doors are much safer because they can only be operated through the use of electronic keys. These electronic keys can be placed on the collars of your pets so that only it can gain access to the electronic passageway.

Electronic dog doors are endowed with a directional sensing system that determines the distance of the dog from the door. Information regarding the direction that the dog is going is sent to the dog door system, so it will not open when the dog is just walking around, sleeping, sitting or eating nearby. The door is only unlocked when the pet is aiming at the door’s exact direction.

Electronic dog doors are the best to use. With such a door, you can be assured that unwanted guests can never enter your home, and that all your belongings – including your dog – are always safe and secure.

A collar is essential for a dog. All pet dogs must have a collar with proper tags containing the address and telephone number of the owner. The very thought of a dog being stolen or lost is heart breaking. The chances of getting it back are very good if the dog is wearing a collar and an identity tag. Dog collars are also very useful for walking and exercising dogs.

It is important to have a collar that fits well. Dog collars give dogs a certain look and collars are designed according to the type of dog. Giant male dogs usually have thick and durable collars, where as female dogs look better wearing a light colored, fancy collar. Dog collars differ in color, size, style and material. It is important to choose a collar that is comfortable and does not irritate or choke the dog. Leather dog collars look classy and are affordable as well. They are extremely durable and ideal for larger dogs.

There is a wide range of leather collars available, as well as on the Internet. Soft leather collars are made to enhance beauty and are very comfortable. The leather hide is selected, cut and polished. It is then stitched to perfection. Leather dog collars are available in rainbow colors that look attractive. Collars can be personalized by attaching engraved id tags. Most leather collars need little or no maintenance. They should be kept dry and away from excess moisture and heat. Snow and weatherproof collars are ideal in extreme weather conditions. Leather conditioners are available that are specially formulated to clean and maintain the leather.

The studded, spiked leather hunting dog collar are some of more popular types. Tan leather collars are favorites among pet-owners. Reflector strips can be attached to the collars to protect dogs at night.

The result of the shooting on the target, beside it was caused by the type of the gun which he used, is also depending on the ability of the hunter. There are some methods in this article which you can use to improve your shooting ability.

The deer hunter’s ability to place his shots depends on many things other than a straight-shooting gun equipped with the proper sights. The fit of the gun has an important bearing on his ability to make fast accurate shots. In a shotgun, this fit is all important, but most rifles are made with an almost straight stock which will fit the average shooter. To judge the fit of a gun, place it at the shoulder in shooting position, and see where the sights are pointed when the cheek is placed in contact with the stock. The eye, both sights and the target should be in line if the fit is perfect.

Minor faults in gun fit can be overcome by changing the position of the shooter’s left hand on the forearm of the gun, but if it requires a strained or awkward position to line the sights on the target, the gun should be altered by a good gunsmith to fit the individual. The shooter should use the same sighting method at all times. It is no use for him to sight his gun in on a target range by bringing his front sight down in the notch of the rear sight so that it can hardly be seen and then shoot at running deer with half of the front sight above the notch. This changes the point of impact so that he will overshoot. His sighting habit should be consistent with his sighting procedure when shooting at running deer and at these times he seldom has the time to draw a fine bead.

While shooting on the target range, the shooter has a large variety of positions to choose from, but in the woods his choice is limited. The prone position is prohibitive except in rare instances. The bench rest is out unless he can improvise one by utilizing some handy tree or limb. When doing this, never place the gun barrel in direct contact with any solid object, but use the left hand as a shock absorber or rest the arm on the object and support the gun with the hand. The kneeling position may be quickly assumed and often this is the best position the hunter can use. While this makes for steadiness of aim, the target area is limited to a small segment of the surrounding area. The time necessary to adjust the position to a deer which runs out of this target area is often just the amount of time needed by the deer to reach protective cover. The off-hand shooting position is the quickest and often the only position which the hunter can take, and time spent in the practice of it will pay off in the woods. All of the motions that are used in assuming this position should be made instinctively. Once the target is sighted, the eyes should not leave it until after the shot. The right foot should shift automatically to a position that will counteract the gun’s recoil and place the shooter’s body at the proper angle in relation to the target. The target should be about half way between straight ahead and a point at a right angle to the left.

The fit of the gun has an important bearing on hunter’s ability to make fast accurate shots. The shooter should use the same sighting method at all times. Use some positions which a hunter feels that make him easier in to shoot his target. While shooting on the target range, the shooter has a large variety of positions to choose from.

A flea is a warm bloodsucker; it may infest your dog and may possibly suck on your blood as well. It is therefore necessary to make sure flea will not be allowed to roam around your household.

Prevent the spread of fleas The best way to get rid of flea on your dog is to ensure that these small bloodsuckers will not thrive on your pet and around your household.

• Vacuum your home thoroughly giving close attention to corners, cracks and the basement. This is because fleas thrive on warm and humid area. They are also very small that they can hide on the corners and cracks.

• Fleas are also very tiny and may hide on carpet fibers and upholstery. They have spiky body that is hard to entangle from your carpet fibers. You therefore need to be vigilant especially on your carpet and upholstery.

• Wash pet beddings regularly. Use hot water and keep it as soapy as possible.

• Bathe your pets weekly and make sure you dry him thoroughly.

Signs of Flea presence in your pet

• Excessive scratching and biting.
• Raw patches especially around the tail and lower back.
• Presence of black, granular dried blood.

Fleas reproduce quickly, thus when you see these signs you may need to be wary because this may lead to severe flea infestation around your home. Removing fleas from your pet Fleas do not easily go away by scratching and biting. They have the spiky body that keep entangles in your dog’s hair. You may therefore need to remove them manually.

• Remove fleas using fine-toothed comb.
• Drown the fleas removed in a basin of soapy water. You read it right, drowning works for these tiny bloodsuckers.
• Use flea shampoos or flea powders, if possible, ask your veterinarian for chemical-free flea treatment. This is to avoid subjecting your pet and your family to chemical overdose.

Non-toxic treatment Water is the most effective flea treatment for your dog. As mentioned, drowning work against fleas. It may help if you can train your dog to bathe while submerged in water up to his neck. This will drown the flea and will be easy for you to comb them away.

Detergent also helps kill flea eggs, combining detergent with water will ensure that you discard the flea and the egg that may become bloodsuckers as well.

Your dog is your best friend, ensuring that he is free from flea will give you the enjoyment of your dog’s company.

Fish tank filters are available in many different types and styles. This if often one of the most difficult but important decisions that faces someone who is about to set up a new fish tank. You may want to ask the person who is selling you the tank about which fish tank filters are recommended for your particular model. There are several types of fish tank filters that you can buy, and the designs are described below.

There are five main fish tank filters to consider. They are: power filters, canister filters, wet/dry filters, internal filters, and inline filters. Each one of these has their own advantages and disadvantages. Also, each one of these comes in many different models and sizes. Shop around and get the filtering system suitable to what you are planning to do with your fish aquarium. Do not get one that is too small for the job and also watch being sold one that is simply oversized.

Power filters provide even water distribution which causes good filtration. These power fish tank filters are also good at maintaining water flow, even if the cartridge should become clogged. This is a good feature to have, because it can help to keep your fish happy, even if a problem with the cartridge arises. Canister filters are great for people who plan on having a lot of plants in their tank. Wet/dry filters are among the most quiet and efficient filters on the market. If you are thinking about breeding your fish, you may want to go with an internal filter. Internal filters have been proven to be among the best filters to use when breeding fish. Last, inline filters are the best at controlling water chemicals. Inline fish tank filters also take up the least amount of space.

Fish tank filters can sometimes be a difficult buy because of all of the options available. It is important to keep in mind what you are looking to get out of your tank. Also, be sure to ask questions when you are purchasing your filter. This can be the best way to make sure you are getting what you want. There are some good and knowledgeable sales people available to answer your questions. The filter is not the place to try to save money, but rather the area of greatest concern. You want your fish to be healthy and happy, so spend the time needed to find out about all the different filter options.

Yorkshire Terriers, Yorkies for short, are a joy to have around and make great and well-loved family pets for many homes. For these reasons, the popularity of the breed has seen phenomenal growth over the past few years. Currently, the Yorkshire Terrier is the breed to have and buy for many families looking for the perfect canine companion. But before you get caught up in the rush to buy one of these adorable puppies, there are a few things to consider to ensure that you buy the best puppy that you can possibly find.

Generally, the Yorkshire Terrier is a lively and hardy breed, but just as with all purebreds, they can be prone to developing certain health and behavioral conditions which can make them hard to deal with and expensive to care for. By doing a little research and taking a few precautionary assessments before deciding which puppy to buy, you can greatly reduce your chances of purchasing a puppy that will cause you a lot of heartache down the road.

The most important thing to consider when buying a puppy is the breeder. Before even looking at puppies you should have a good knowledge of the breeder and several referrals indicating that he or she is a top of the line breeder with the best interests of the Yorkie breed at heart. If you have any qualms about a breeder, do not buy a puppy from him or her, regardless of how cute or healthy a puppy appears to be.

Here’s why: A good breeder is conscious of the inherent characteristics that are common in the Yorkshire Terrier breed. A competent breeder will not breed all of their dogs just because they are registered and pedigreed; they will select only the best Yorkies for breeding to minimize undesirable traits, both health related and behavioral related, and to maximize desirable traits. Certain congenital birth defects are also a result of careless breeding. So, choosing a competent breeder increases your chances of having a healthy and happy Yorkie.

A good breeder also invests in the proper care for all of their new puppies. Yorkie puppies are extremely fragile when born and do not really become self sufficient or able to be separated from their dam until they are 3 months of age or older. Before this time they are very susceptible to health conditions such as hypoglycemia and allergies to vaccinations. For these reasons, it is important to never buy a Yorkshire Terrier puppy younger than this age or before it has had at least two of the three required rounds of vaccinations. Any breeder who wants to bypass the waiting period and sell their puppies earlier than 3 months does not have the health of the puppy in mind and would likely not be the best breeder to deal with.

Another must have when dealing with a breeder is a sales contract and a guarantee. If a breeder is not prepared to guarantee their puppies’ health in writing, then you may end up with an expensive puppy that only lives a few short months. A good guarantee will replace your puppy or refund your money for any congenital defects found within the first year.

Also have a thorough knowledge of the AKC standard for the Yorkshire Terrier breed before going to look at puppies. By following the AKC standard, you will have a good idea what to look for in certain puppies. Considering that most reputable breeders only have a limited number of puppies available, and then they are available only occasionally, it may take a lot of puppy shopping before you actually find a puppy that meets all of the standards. If you are planning to show or breed your dog, your wait may be even longer. So, be prepared to not find your Yorkie on the first go round, actually expect it. Then you won’t be disappointed.

Do not be fooled by breeders trying to push “miniature” Yorkies. There is no such thing as a “miniature” Yorkie, just Yorkies that are smaller than others. In most cases, very small Yorkie puppies passed off as “miniature” are actually the runt of the litter and prone to health problems such as thyroid disease.

Remember to keep all of these pointers in mind when looking for your new Yorkie. By doing so, you will ensure that your new puppy is a happy and healthy addition to your family.

Is your dog bored with you? Do you come home every night and throw the same ole ball? Well, try something new for your good buddy, purchase some dog agility equipment for lots of backyard fun. Agility training and equipment will stimulate your dog’s mind and add more of a physical challenge to your dog’s body.

For backyard agility fun there is a whole aray of equipment options and selections. If you have a huge yard to play in you could select standard competition size equipment. If your yard is average to small you might select from the “mini” equipment choices. You could select from the mini-dogwalk, mini-teeter, mini-Aframe and mini-tire. Mini equipment is easier to move, costs less than standard size equipment, and normally, easier to train because the dogs safer.

Mini-equipment is sturdy enough for all size dogs, young pups enjoy playing on the obstacles, and because they are lower to the ground safer if they jump off. Railings are often added to the mini-dogwalk for puppies protection. Large dogs can also enjoy the solid mini-equipment.

A contact trainer is fun for backyard playing or training. The contact trainer is a combination of the pause table, one side of a mini-Aframe, and one side of a mini-dogwalk plank. Dogs have great fun running up the planks and sitting on the table.

Don’t forget to take time and teach the Table. The Pause Table becomes the “magic” table. Train it and your dogs will eagerly run to the table as their “launching point” for more agility fun. Use the table as a central point, like the center of a clock, to go to and to come from varies locations, distances and directions. Setup other obstacles at the 12 o’clock position, 3 o’clock, 6, and 9 o’clock position. Start with your dog on the table and direct your dog back over the obstacle at 12, come in to the table or go to the 9 o’clock obstacle, and so on. It’s a great way to practice threadles, weaves, and serpetines, backs and all your directional commands.

Weaves made from PVC are economical and easy to setup for backyard training. More than any other obstacle weaves do require repetitive practice and are a must to have in order for dogs to successfully learn and complete the set of 6 or 12.

A number of jumps will add variety to any backyard course that you setup. Four to eight jumps enable you to practice jump chutes, grids, jump boxes, or jump circles.

Guinea pigs originated from the Andean region of South America, presently known as Ecuador, Bolivia, and Peru. They were a food source for mountain tribes around the year 2000BC. They are still to this day used as a food source in that area. They also live off of families scraps and are used as pets or collectors of evil-spirits in healing ceremonies. European trades transported quinea pigs to Europe, people saw them as exotic pets.

Where do Guinea Pigs get their name and why?

No one knows for sure just how the guinea pig came to be called a “pig”. They really are not pigs but are larger rodents. However they do tend to make noises that are very similar to that of a pig. They alos have some similar physical features with a pig. Their heads are large, with a rounded hind end, and with no tail. The guinea pig is also able to survive in cramped conditions such as a “pig pen” therefore they were easier to transport to England. Even in other languages they are referred to as pigs. The Dutch often called them “Guineas Biggetie” (Guinean piglet). In Germany they use the term “Meerschweinchen” (little sea pigs). The Germans gave the guinea pigs the name from when they would stop in the New World to stock up on provisions and would purchase large amounts of guinea pigs for their main source of meat.

What kind of environment do Guinea Pigs live in?

Guinea pigs are very social animals living in large groups consisting of sows (females) and boars (males), the offspring are called pups. Their life expectance is any where from four to eight years. In the year 1997 it was recorded that a guinea pig lived for a record of 15 years. Guinea pigs mate for life unlike similar rodents who have several different mates. Domesticated guinea pigs generally are kept in groups of two, either all females, all males, or one female with a neutered male. All male groups usually do well as long as there is no females brought into their environment and they have enough room in their cage.

When in the wild they can be found in little groups grazing grass a lot like a herd of cattle. They are more active during dawn and dusk making in harder for predators to see them. When the are frightened they can move surprisingly fast. Domestic guinea pigs are often more active for longer periods of time and taking little naps in between.

Domestic guinea pigs usually are kept in plastic cages with softwood chip bedding. They are kept indoors, they are not capable of handling exposure to the elements or predators.

Continuation of Day Seven

Around ten that night Kathy called me back upstairs to check out a noise she heard in the kitchen, one of the sticky traps was turned over and in the middle of the floor. We started the watch routine again and we sat quietly in the dark for over hour. I remembered an old wire trap that I had in the building out back, this was about ten inches by eighteen inches and has a door on each end with the bait on a trip platform in the middle, I set it up and baited it with the peanut butter, block of the remaining door opening and waited again. Kathy retired around eleven and I camped out on the love seat in front of the fireplace where I could watch the kitchen door way by the night light.

A little after one in the morning I dosed off and woke suddenly when something touched my right arm! I got a glimpse of something flashing toward the kitchen, it looked small but I was not sure if I was dreaming or not. I waited awhile to see if anything moved, then got up and turned on the lights, there on the carpet just before you enter the kitchen was a fresh mouse drop!

Tired, I gave up for the night, moved the large cage out to the carport, cleared the doorway and went down stairs. Kathy informed me that she heard a scratching sound over the ceiling in our bedroom while I was upstairs. I went back up and re-baited the traps with fresh peanut butter, mover one spring loaded trap and one sticky trap down stairs, then retired for the night.

Day eight Hubert = 2, Willard =4

This morning I check all the traps, no mouse or rat, found one more mouse drop on the kitchen floor and several droppings at the base of the lamp next to the armoire. While making coffee I noticed that the peanut crumbs in the kitchen drain, where I rinsed off the spoon the night before, were missing. Looks like he is finding plenty of food.

We called the exterminator. No one could come out on the same day and I was not convinced they could find him. One of the companies recommended Rid-A-Critter a company specializing in rodent removal. He seemed very confident that they had to right bait to trap him so we set an appointment for two the next day.

At lunch time Mom found that the rat had eaten a large hole in Dad’s bread during the night. Willard has zeroed in on the kitchen. I finished with our Monday morning work at the church and headed for the hardware store again, picking up some pellet rat poison that everyone was telling would make them thirsty and cause them leave looking for water before they die. However I still wanted to know where he was before putting out the poison. I did not want to tear out the ceiling in the basement.

I got home and checked all the hiding places again and not knowing where he was decided to hold off on the poison and make another trip to the hardware store for some of the larger sticky traps for rats as that is what worked the last time. I picked up four of the big ones, blocked off the kitchen door way with them baited with peanut butter and a piece of bread stuck on top. Three cover the space in the door way so I placed the forth on the top stair, just in case he was in the basement.

We retired for the night after I promised to check on the traps during the night.

Day nine four in the morning

I awoke at four and all was quite, but I knew that I had better check the traps, so I got dressed and went up stairs, turned the lights on and one of the three traps in the door way was missing, I search the living room and then the kitchen no sign of a rat or sticky trap, I could not believe it! Back in the kitchen and under a free standing cabinet, behind a potato jar was the trap up on its edge. It was a mess with hair and much more stuck all over it, but no rat. All of a sudden the paper around the edge flower pot moved and I started looking closer. He was behind the cabinet with two feet on the wall chair rail and two feet on the back of the cabinet top. I ran for the fireplace tongs but I could not get to him, with him being able to get away.

I went and got the wire cage trap from the carport and set it next to the cabinet and blocked off an area so he would go into the trap. I then went to the other side and flushed him out. He ran down and into the trap and back out again before I could get the trap door closed. He headed to the back of the kitchen and under the pillows on the bench.

I proceeded to build another barricade across the middle of the kitchen with the wire cage trap in the middle open on both ends so he could see through and take the easy route. He ran right through the trap jumping over the plate that trips the trap and into his hiding place in the living room under the TV console. Willard had won again! Now that I knew where he was it was time for the poison.

It was five in the morning, so I made a cup of coffee, ate some breakfast, set the poison on each side of the console, turned out the lights and waited. A little after six I heard him munching on the pellets, I continued to let him eat for about 15 minutes before getting up. Now I had to keep him upstairs until Rid-A-Critter arrived. I found another hardware store that had a large plastic mouse trap that I could leave the front open and place water with more rat bait. It had a hidden spring that may hold his head in the trap. I set that up next to the opening along the wall with the other bait hoping he would get thirsty and go for it.

Two in the afternoon and help has arrived!

Jeff Vredenburgh and Brandon Shore with Adcock’s Rid-A- Critter were eager to take over. I gave them a brief history and showed them where Willard was hiding. They got their net, gloves, and three foot grabber and started to work. After about ten minutes of checking under the TV console with flashlight and mirror, they spotted him. The TV console had a brace in the middle that blocked my view so that I could see only less than one side at a time, when I would move to the other side the rat would move also, so I was never sure if he was under there. After we moved it away from the wall, they could get a good view of him.

Now it started to get interesting as they tried to position the net and flush him out. After several attempts he escaped, ran over my foot and headed down the hall toward the back of the house.

Mom was in the bedroom with the door shut and Dad was in his chair writing a letter. He was under the desk, then under Dad’s chair, up a lamp, across the book shelves and then back under the desk again. My grandson and I had the door way blocked and they’re sure was a lot of excitement in that small room.

He got into the lower drawer of the desk and as they were taking the items out, he moved up to the next drawer.

When they removed the middle drawer, he moved up into the top drawer until there were no more drawers too hid in.

With the glove hand they finely caught him. Out of the house at last.

Our thanks to Jeff and Brandon for their brave action and best of all nothing was broken.