Archive for October, 2007

Your Guide to Housebreaking a Puppy

Wednesday, October 31st, 2007

A puppy is a young animal that is only just beginning to have control over the sphincter muscles that control his functions. This control is weak, and has been building up largely due to the fact of his unwillingness to soil his own quarters. Your job now is to concentrate his attention on further control, and to extend his unwillingness to soil his sleeping area or anywhere else in the house.

Any pup younger than 3 – 4 months old will not have enough muscular control to do what you want him to. Almost any attempt to house-train a puppy before he his physically ready will only confuse him and set back all your training efforts. The most practical method of training involves paper training. He first learns that newspapers spread out on the floor are the place to go. Then his attentions are progressively directed to the outside.

Despite popular lore, housebreaking is neither a hard or extensive job. Ten days to two weeks will see the worst of it out of the way. Keep in mind that the job requires a constant vigilance, but if you do it right, there is a great feeling of accomplishment and it’s done for his lifetime.

You should exercise control over the intake as well as the outgo. The puppy will be fed at regular intervals and he should be watered only at specific times. Give him his water bowl about an hour after he has finished eating and let him during as much as he wants. About half an hour after the watering, start watching or take him out for “time to go.”

The ideal housebreaking room is the kitchen as it usually has a linoleum floor and in most cases a back door leading outside. Wherever you choose as his room, put down several layers of newspaper or training pads are now available. When he relieves himself, praise him, and pick up the sheets he used right away.

If he doesn’t use the papered area, take him gently over to the spot, push his nose at it, but not in it, and tell him “No, bad dog”, and then take him outside immediately. Have faith in him and praise his accomplishments, if you’ve done everything patiently and well up to now, you may never have another moment of trouble with him.

How To Stop A Dog From Digging

Tuesday, October 30th, 2007

Not many things in this world are more frustrating than a dog that won’t stop digging holes in your yard. You’ve probably tried all the usual methods to get him to stop digging including yelling at him, spanking his rear and restraining him with a rope or chain. Let me guess, none of the above worked too well, did they? If none of the above methods work, then how can you get your dog to stop digging? This article will first, explore why dogs dig and secondly will provide some proven methods to help stop your dog’s digging problem.

Dogs dig in the yard for a variety of reasons. They dig in order to create a cool place to lie. They also dig when they are bored or frustrated. Some dogs even dig as a way to be playful. They also dig when they want attention from you. They have learned that by digging they can get you to pay attention to them, even if it is only to yell at them briefly.

You can help a bored, frustrated or playful dog by providing him with more exercise, regular obedience training and companionship. Provide shade for your dog so that he has a cool place to sleep. You can protect your garden and flowerbeds with fences and harmless repellant sprays. For persistent diggers you can provide him with his own sand pile and praise him when he digs there.

For the dog that absolutely will not stop digging, you can try burying balloons in the area where he digs. You can also squirt him with water or bang pans together when you catch him in the act. Any loud noise will help, including shaking pebbles or coins in a coffee can. Just be sure you only use these methods when you actually catch him digging. The key to training a dog is consistency, by staying consistent in your training methods you will help insure you are successful in your dog training efforts.

Choosing Dog Food For A Balanced And Healthy Diet Needs More Careful Thought That You Might Think

Monday, October 29th, 2007

Your dog needs a balanced diet of protein, carbohydrates and fats to maintain good general health, a healthy skin and coat, and plenty of energy. Broad guidelines are: 20-25% protein, 20-35% fat and 40-60% carbohydrate. Like humans, they need vitamins and minerals, though unlike us their need for Vitamin C is satisfied by their ability to synthesize it for themselves. Essential vitamin B1, however, is not stored by dogs, and can be lost in food processing. It may need to be supplied as a supplement.

Just feeding your dog lean meat does not satisfy these guidelines. In nature, dogs will eat all of their prey, including fat and the contents of the gut, which as a whole provides close to this ideal balanced diet. In fact, dogs in the wild have been observed to prefer to eat the gut of their prey first. Studies have confirmed this preference in domestic dogs, by showing they generally prefer their food cooked, warm, wet and ground up rather than in raw meaty chunks. Dogs are not delicate eaters, however. As natural scavengers, they will eat almost anything when they are hungry, and will naturally gulp down large meals quickly when food is available. Their ancestors never knew when next they might get an opportunity to eat.

Commercially processed and balanced dog food is commonly fed to dogs to help meet their ideal requirements, incorporating the necessary vitamin and mineral supplements. Often these foods come in dry form for ease of storage, or in cans or sausages, and offer a simple and convenient solution that is popular with a high proportion of dog owners. The commercial pet food business is today a huge industry. Store bought commercial dog foods are not always cheap, however.

An alternative for dog owners is to mix their own balanced dog food diet. It’s tricky to get the right combination of the right foods. Human diet guidelines are not necessarily appropriate. You will have to read up on the subject to know what you are doing. To give one example of the unique dietary issues to consider, including too much dried skim milk powder could cause scouring because of its high lactose content that dogs find difficult to digest. Recipes that offer guidance are readily available should you choose to take this approach.

Dogs like to chew on large bones, but small bones and cooked bones that may splinter should be avoided. They are a common cause of death for dogs when ingested. Cooked chicken, lamb chop and fish bones are especially dangerous. Scraps from the table are always popular with dogs, and feeding your dog after you have eaten is one of the strategies you should adopt to assert your “alpha” position in the “pack.” But do watch out not just for small bones, but also for other dangers they may contain, like toothpicks.

An aspect of dog behavior is that they will learn to associate a particular food with a bad experience, such as a digestive upset, and, as a natural survival instinct, may never eat it again. This may explain the frustrating and mysterious aversions to some foods that dog owners occasionally observe.

Feeding your seemingly ravenous dog is a little more complicated than it appears to be at first glance, but rarely presents any difficulty once you are aware of the unique requirements of dogs.

Pit Bulls and Joint Related Problems: Dog Health Advice

Sunday, October 28th, 2007

Due to the highly energetic nature of the Pit Bull, they are more prone to joint problems and injuries. Irresponsible breeders also contribute to joint problems in the Pit Bull. Many breeders fail to have adequate health tests done for joint problems, and because of this, their animals are more likely to inherit genetic joint problems.

There are some things a Pit Bull owner can do to help prevent joint injury. One simple thing is to have your dogs warm up before they do their daily exercise. Walk with them for at least fifteen minutes before they have their play session to help keep their joints flexible. The warm up can help to prevent muscle injury as well as strain on joints.

Having your Pit Bull exercise and play on soft surfaces, such as dirt or grass, will also help prevent joint injury by lessening the amount of impact on them. Hard surfaces do a lot of impact damage over time to knees and hips especially.

Weight control can also help reduce joint damage and muscle strain, as well as other health problems. Your dog should get plenty of exercise as well to avoid obesity. Feeding puppies a lean diet can help to prevent them from developing hip dysplasia as they grow.

There are many supplements available as well that can be used to promote joint health. IT is best to check with your veterinarian to find out if one is needed, and if so, which one would be best for your Pit Bull. Current research suggests that every dog should receive supplements at the first signs of joint or muscle damage or weakness. These work well at helping to prevent damage, but can’t do a lot with the damage that has already occurred, so it is important to start them as early as possible.

One other thing that can help is to ensure your dog has a comfortable bed. Baby mattresses tend to work well, especially for dogs that already have some joint damage.

Your veterinarian can also be a crucial part of keeping your Pit Bull healthy. If you suspect any problems with joints or muscles, or signs of arthritis, it is imperative to have it treated immediately. Your vet will perform a very thorough exam, and take a complete medical history, including any injuries or procedures your Pit Bull may have had. Blood work and x-rays will probably be done to help diagnose the problem. Your vet will then prescribe whatever medications and treatment available to help your dog.

Dog Training Secrets

Saturday, October 27th, 2007

Every dog and every dog owner has his or her own unique dog training challenges. Each breed of dog has a different temperament as does each individual dog. And dog owners are no different. Despite the differences, there are some basic things in common for training all dogs.

No matter why you have a dog, he should at least have some very elementary dog training. No one wants a dog who isn’t housebroken, who runs away or into the street, who won’t sit, come or stay when you want him to. Both you and your dog will be happier with a little common ground on obedience training.

One of the first things to take into account when dog training is that dogs are programmed for a world of leaders and followers. You have to be the leader in your relationship. Signs of a leader are absolute consistency. Know what you want your dog to do and keep that constant from day to day and training session to training session. Don’t shout. That is a sign that you have lost control. And keep your dogs attention focused on you during the entire training session.

Attention is the second important thing to keep in mind for dog training and one of the hardest to maintain. It has been said that ninety percent of dog training is getting and keeping his attention. Dogs are very much like small children and have short attention spans. Keep training sessions short - 20 minutes is fine, or even a couple of 10 minute sessions. Work with your dog in a quiet environment that is free of distractions. Talk to your dog in a quiet voice. Use his name and explain what you want him to do. He may understand no more than, “Blah blah blah, Toby”, but your voice will keep him focused in your direction.

Experts have found that positive dog training is more effective that a system of rewards and punishment. A dog who looks forward to training sessions as fun and full of rewards is a dog who will learn faster and better. Reward accomplishments with treats or words of praise or pats. As your dog learns new skills, you can reward him for each step along the way. If he doesn’t respond the way you want, rethink what you are asking him to do and how you are asking him to do it. What worked as a dog training method for one dog may not work as well for the next. Your dog may need to review some more basic dog training lessons before going on to new lessons. Rather than punishment, a stern NO, blocking a movement with your hands, or withholding rewards when he doesn’t perform, and remaining consistent are the best ways to encourage your dog to exhibit the behavior you want. Remember that it is in his nature (as well as yours) to want to test limits and see how much he can get away with. Consistency in dog training and rewards are what get positive results, not punishments.

Dogs are very much like us. They want to follow a leader they respect. And dog training is just like school. They like to do things that are fun and make them feel good, where they get rewards for accomplishing what is asked of them. And they want the same thing their owners want, a happy and safe relationship with the ones they are love. A little dog obedience training will go a long way in making this happen.

What to Feed Your Parrot

Thursday, October 25th, 2007

Over the last few decades, a new trend popped up regarding pet nutrition, regardless of the type of pet involved. This trend focused on giving your pet the food that they would hypothetically eat in the wild if they were still feral. The supporters of this method argument it with the fact that eating raw, natural food keeps your pet healthy and lively, whereas stuffing him with commercial nutrients can cause some serious problems. At the same extent, supporters of the traditional diet methods say that the natural food diets don’t work, for the simple reason that the pet doesn’t get the amount of exercise, freedom and harshness he gets in his potential “wild” state, thus the natural diet has no effect. Parrots make no exception from the rule, as there have been many parrot nutrition disputes over the last few years, regarding the two types of diets.

So how should a parrot owner go about this problem? Should you only feed him natural stuff such as weeds, leaf buds, seeds and fruit parts? Should you try a commercial parrot food pack that boasts with having “all the nutrients your parrot needs”? Or should you try a combination of the two? Although it’s a matter of personal preference, one could conclude that a combination between natural and commercial food is the best, since it offers everything a parrot needs: tasty natural food and his daily requirement of vitamins from the commercial supplements.

When it comes to food, parrots are not picky at all. Although they might not enjoy everything you give them at first, they’ll usually get used to that food type in a short while. Still, you should note that not all food types are healthy for your parrot (although they’ll still eat them). Food holding large amounts of salt can be extremely unhealthy for your parrot, since he won’t be able to excrete all the salt. So avoid giving him any mashed chips, dinner leftovers and basically anything that you’ve salted beforehand.

Also, make sure your parrot doesn’t get a single type of food on his daily diet. Eating seeds may be tasty for him, but note that seeds are not that healthy and they definitely don’t contain the required amount of nutrients a parrot needs on a daily basis. Some pet dietitians compare seeds with junk food, since they will be eagerly eaten by your parrot, but they’re not the healthiest of options. Still, seeds have a very practical use. If your parrot got used to a specific type of diet and you want to switch to a healthier one (but usually less tasty) that he simply will refuse to eat at first, it’s a good idea to “sprinkle” the new food with some tasty seeds in order to tempt your parrot to eat. Once they get the taste of the seeds, they will dig right in to the new food type and eventually get used to it.

The amount and type of food your parrot requires is also heavily dependent on his species and his size. Make sure you try different diets for him and notice which one works, since the correctness of the diet is directly proportional with your parrot’s life span. A good, healthy diet can give him as much as an extra decade of life, so if you care about your pet it’s a good idea to make sure he gets what he needs from his food.

(c) Chris Bloor

Something Smells Funny - How Your Family Pet is Destroying Your Home

Wednesday, October 24th, 2007

We Americans LOVE our Pets. Dogs, Cats, Bunnies, Monkeys, Rats…you name it. We let them sleep in our beds and eat in our kitchens. We buy and cook them special foods. We dress them up and treat them like the members of the family that they are. But have you ever considered the damage pets can do to your most important investment, your home?

As a real estate agent working in Minnesota, I have seen some strange pets inside of some homes…everything from pot-bellied pigs to monkeys and bunnies with the run of the house. Oh, yeah and then there are the people who have dogs and cats too. Many homeowners take great measures to protected their homes and property but some do not. I have walked into vacant homes and had potential buyers pick out the exact location of where the previous owner had the litter box. I have seen puppy’s teeth marks on the sides of oak cupboards and cedar decking and claw marks on wood floors. I have walked through extensively landscaped yards destroyed by holes dug by chained dogs. I have witnessed a family whose cat jumps up and hangs on screens to notify their owner that they want to come inside. And then there was the family that let the horse wander in the front yard and let the bunny have the entire house to roam…you can just imagine the damage left behind on that one.

While amusing to read about, pets can be hard on your home. When you go to sell, you could have to make extensive repairs or discount your selling price to reflect the condition.

The smells are the worst. People who keep pets in carpeted rooms even in cages or kennels can have serious problems. Often the odors will not be removed with a simple steam cleaning. In most cases, I recommend that the carpet be replaced. But homeowners with serious damage find that they are not only replacing the carpet, the padding and sometimes even the sub-flooring needs to be removed to eliminate the smell.

It is possible to have your beloved pet and to protect your home.

Keep your pet well groomed to reduce odor, hair and nail damage.

Get a pet bed for your dogs and cats. (Several are available at www.olddogpaws.com). Our dog loves the extra comfort and it keeps dirt and sweat from his coat from going into the carpet fibers. We will move his from room to room during the day so he can stay with us. If this is too much trouble, buy several. They are considerably cheaper than replacing carpet. Our cat uses his bed daily too. It is positioned for his easy access in front of his favorite window so he doesn’t jump and leave marks on the woodwork.

Have a proper sized kennel or cage for exotic pets and clean often.

Clear all accidents immediately. Use special pet cleaners to remove odors and stains.

Cover all exposed woodwork especially around windows. Pets love to jump up and look out windows. Use gates to limit your pet’s access to soft wood floors like birch or cherry wood. Nail marks require the floor to be completely sanded down before refinishing. It can get very costly.

Don’t chain your dog to the side of your house. Chains and bolts can cause both cosmetic and structural damage to your home.

Copyright 2006 Teri Eckholm.

Can My Dog Get Flu?

Tuesday, October 23rd, 2007

In today’s society with flu pandemics and such grabbing so much of the spotlight, it is easy for us to overlook the fact that our dogs can also contract a version of flu. Yes it is true, there is a flu virus becoming prominent in the canine world that is believed to have originated as an equine strain. This equine strain has started to appear in dogs in the United States opening up a huge can of worms that we as dog owners now have to deal with. As if there was not already enough dangerous factors that we must be aware of, now there is another potentially serious relatively unknown one to consider.

The Canine Influenza virus presents similar to the human version of the flu:

- Nasal discharge

- Eye discharge

- Fever

- Coughing

- Sneezing

- Vomiting

- Labored breathing

Prophylaxis (Prevention)

- Keep your dog away from large dog populated areas.

- Avoid grooming shops, kennels, boarding kennels, etc.

- Keep your dog away from stray dogs

- Consult your vet for further prevention options

The trouble with the Canine Influenza virus, is that infected dogs can appear healthy. This is why it is crucial to keep your dog away from stray dogs, or dogs that you do not thoroughly know to be clear of the virus, (indoor pets)

Treatment

If you do feel that your dog has developed Canine Influenza, consult your vet immediately for best treatment options. Due to the relatively new appearance of the condition, treatment is limited to IV fluids, and Broad Spectrum antibiotics.

http://www.dogflu.ca

Do You Need to Supplement Your Cat’s Diet with Vitamins and Minerals?

Monday, October 22nd, 2007

Despite obvious physiology differences, your cat is not that different from you. Just as humans, cats require vitamins and minerals to survive. Whether or not you need to supplement your cat’s diets with vitamins depends largely on their diet and current health status.

The vitamins that cats need include both fat soluble and water-soluble vitamins. These vitamins are essential to a cat’s growth and for the efficient processing of fats in the body. These vitamins ensure that a cat’s bones are healthy and that they have sufficient protection from disease. Cats are prone to cuts and vitamins can help to repair wounds quickly. Fat-soluble vitamins are vitamins E, D, A, and K. The water-soluble vitamins include the B vitamins (B1, B2, B6, and B12) and vitamin C.

Vitamins are easily absorbed in a cat’s system. Minerals, on the other hand, require that the cat’s system is healthy for proper absorption. Any slight infection can affect a cat’s ability to absorb minerals. The minerals that cats require the most include calcium, magnesium, potassium, and sodium chloride.

The good news about foods for animals is that they are formulated to meet all the nutritional needs of the animal. Feeding your cat food is typically all that is necessary for them to obtain all the nutrients they need. However, there are some things that can affect the amount of nutrients in cat food. For starters, cat food can lose some of its nutritional value. This often happens if the food is kept on a store shelf for a significant amount of time.

If a stray cat has made its way to your doorstep, the condition of the cat may warrant the need for vitamin and mineral supplementation. Stray cats, especially abandoned kittens are susceptible to infections and diseases. The first step you should make when attempting to care for a stray cat is to have a veterinarian inspect the cat for diseases. The veterinarian will give you instructions for caring for the stray cat, including vitamin and mineral supplementation. You should follow the instructions given to you. An excessive amount of a particular vitamin or mineral can cause a toxic reaction in a cat that could be fatal.

Why not check out our nutrition guide at http://www.nutritional-supplement-guides.com/nut-ebook.html

and also what supplement we personally use for our nutrition needs at http://www.nutritional-supplement-guides.com/what-we-use.html

Shih Tzu Groom Shop Work Area

Sunday, October 21st, 2007

When you set up your Shih Tzu Groom Shop work area, have everything close at hand. Leave plenty of space for your work area.

The Grooming Table

Your Shih Tzu Groom Shop grooming table should be in the lightest part of the room. Near a window is an ideal spot for your grooming table. Use a pegboard on the wall nearest your Shih Tzu grooming table. The pegboard should hold almost all your grooming tools. Grooming tools that are within easy reach is most efficient. Put up a shelf to store spray cans and any items you can’t hang from a pegboard. Your Shih Tzu grooming table should be the center of the décor. A grooming table with a swinging tray underneath for additional storage of frequently-used tools and products is a most desirable feature.

Cages

Your cages in the Shih Tzu Groom Shop are best on a wall near your table. The cages, like your other equipment, should be set up for maximum efficiency. You should start your Shih Tzu Groom Shop with a minimum of a unit of four cages. You can add cages as your business increases. With two cage units you should be able to handle as many as ten Shih Tzu per day. If your business grows larger, you can devote a separate room just for cage units. A back room is usually an ideal spot for this.

Bathtub

When you install your tub consider your height. The tub should be installed waist-high for the operator’s comfort. A nice place to store bathing materials is beneath the tub.

The rest of the work area in your Shih Tzu Groom Shop should be planned and organized with an eye toward expansion. As your Shih Tzu Groom Shop business grows, you may need to hire another groomer, or bather, or more helpers. You will need to plan on adding three or more grooming tables.

Don’t forget a comfortable chair for times when one can sit during the day. A separate room for a break area is ideal.

Electrical Power

One of the most important things your Shih Tzu Groom Shop must have is sufficient electrical power. The more power the shop has, the better. Good lighting is a must. Daylight is the best light of all. Lots of windows can provide your Shih Tzu Groom Shop with much daylight and also places to display other for sale items. Regardless of the amount of daylight your shop has, however, you will still need your lights on at all times. Outlets in the right places and sufficient current to support the load are an absolute necessity.