Pet Information

Guinea pigs, originating from Peru and Bolivia, are wonderful pets - cute, social, yet inexpensive and relatively easy to take care of. However, most beginner guinea pig owners don’t know much about the animals. In fact, guinea pigs, like other small rodents, are rather delicate and an illness contracted for instance by a cold draft can be fatal for them within a very short period of time.

The most common mistakes made by inexperienced guinea pig owners include the following:

10) Wrong cage placement. Both too hot or too cold temperatures are bad for guinea pigs. They can easily get heatstroke at temperatures of above 90F (30C), but can also freeze at temperatures below 70F (10C). Drafts are to be avoided as well, since they can cause pneumonia.

9) Mistakes when handling. The correct way to pick up and hold a guinea pig is by placing one hand below the body, with the thumb around a front leg, and supporting the weight with the second hand below the hindquarters. A guinea pig should never be pulled by the fur or by a leg.
Not clipping nails. This should be done regularly, at least once a month, since the nails grow and get in the way of the guinea pig. If a long nail breaks, it may lead to infections and abscesses.

7) Using a wire mesh bottom cage. This is not a good idea with guinea pigs, since their small feet slip through the mesh and get irritated by the metal, causing foot sores and an illness called bumblefoot. A solid floor cage with a soft bedding like pelleted paper is much better.

6) Placing a boar and a sow together without being prepared for the consequences - a bunch of little guinea pigs. If not neutered, male and female guinea pigs put together will in all likelihood mate and cause offspring. Breeding guinea pigs is in general not recommended if you are not fully aware of the consequences.

5) Not making the house guinea-pig-proof. There are numerous danger in a typical household for a guinea pig on the loose. The most obvious ones include anything that moves - be it people, doors, things that can fall down, or anything that can squeeze a guinea pig. Another one is cables - guinea pigs chew everything in sight, and electric cables are not very good food! Green plants are another potential threat to guinea pig health - a lot of them (such as ficus or azalea) cause food poisoning if chewed on.

4) Not cleaning the cage regularly and often enough. Guinea pigs are clean animals and feel miserable in a dirty cage. Bad hygiene is also often the reason for infections and various serious diseases. A guinea pig cage should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a week (better twice), with the whole bedding renewed. Food bowls and the water tube should be cleaned daily.

3) Not providing enough space and exercise. A sight seen very often is a guinea pig hunched in the corner of a small cage, barely moving from that spot all day. Combined with unrestricted dry food access, this is a sure way to make a guinea pig overweight and thus significantly reduce its lifespan. For guinea pigs, the same basic principle applies as for humans - leaner is better. A healthy guinea pig should feel firm to the touch, not soft and wobbly. Methods to ensure that your guinea pig is in good shape and not overweight include enough space (at least 3-4 sq.ft for an adult guinea pig), toys to play with, regular exploration forays outside of the cage, and restricted food access (for instance, feeding twice a day).

2) Incorrect bedding. Wood shavings in particular, although very frequently used, are not a good bedding for guinea pigs. They can cause foot sores, injuries to the cavies’ delicate eyes, and wood dust which often accompanies shavings causes respiratory (lung) problems. Some kinds of wood, such as cedar or redwood, also contain oily components that can also cause allergies and illnesses with guinea pigs.

1) Improper food. This is probably the most frequent cause of illnesses and deaths among pet guinea pigs. In particular, feeding a lot of moist vegetables such as lettuce can cause diarrhea, which can be lethal for a guinea pig within one or two days. Insufficient access to water (for instance, failure to notice that a gravity water bottle’s ball was stuck and the guinea pig cannot drink enough) leads to dehydration and is also quite dangerous. Providing water in open bowls instead of a bottle can lead to contamination with droppings and bedding material and various infections as a result.

Having a dog groomed by a professional is one of life’s worthwhile luxuries. You don’t have to worry about getting your own bathroom flooded, hair down the drain, endless wet towels, not to mention a damp (still smelly) dog to deal with. People who have attempted to groom their dogs at home make the best grooming clients, as they can relate to all of the processes involved in this task. For those who have not undertaken this feat, it is often difficult to understand what could possibly take more than an hour or two.

It is important to understand the process of a professional grooming session and all that it entails. Of course, it involves a bath, which doesn’t sound difficult. But several factors determine what type of a bathing session: length and condition of hair, amount of shedding and/or matting of the hair, condition of skin, external parasites, etc. These factors also determine the method of coat conditioning, as well as blow-drying that will be used.

The brush out, deshedding, pedicure, ear cleaning and plucking, sanitary and feet trimming, etc…so much to do! Each of these tasks take significant time to perform correctly and safely Then, depending on breed, we still have the haircut. Remember: we are using very sharp objects on moving targets. Factor in the phone ringing for other appointments and owners showing up to drop off and pick up dogs, and you have a very busy salon atmosphere. And, don’t forget the bathroom breaks and watering…treats, too, and the clock keeps on ticking!

Many groomers have turned to “stack grooming” to alleviate salon stress and anxiety, not only for the pets, but also for the groomers and owners alike. It is by far the safest and least stressful situation for the pets being groomed. Basically all pets are dropped off and picked up around the same time of day. Then the groomer can work on different dogs in shifts; while one dog is drying, another is in the tub. While another is being clipped, a different dog has a conditioner on, etc. The greatest benefit is that the dogs are not forced to endure the entire grooming process start to finish without resting.

Two to four hours is a very long time for even healthy dogs to stand perfectly still, not to mention geriatric pets or those with medical conditions, arthritis, etc. Dogs become much more stressed being forced to stand for lengthy periods of time, rather than resting comfortably in a kennel in between tasks.

In our industry extensive studies have shown this method has had a very positive impact on the reaction that dogs have to the grooming process in general. They go home more rested and happy than after “marathon” grooming sessions. Owners’ reactions have been very positive as well; they enjoy the idea of their pets having an entire day of pampering and personal attention.

If you are new at the process and are trying to choose a groomer, inquire what techniques are used. Good communication is a must. Don’t be anxious if your groomer asks you to pick up your dog at the end of the day: if you are comfortable with your choice of groomers, relax and let Fido enjoy his restful day at the salon!

When it comes to providing a place for birds in your area to splash, bathe, play, and drink, a bird bath can please both the feathered and human inhabitants of the property. Bird baths serve as a huge draw to entice birds of all types to your yard, and in turn, the birds receive a necessary place to refresh themselves on hot summer days or chilly winter nights. Before you purchase a bird bath, first consider where you will place the bird bath in your yard or garden to ensure the specific style you wish will fit the outdoor space.

You have countless options when it comes to where to place a bird bath, but the most popular places include:

• Decks or Porches: If you do not have a great deal of space in your yard, or do not have a yard at all, consider purchasing a bird bath that affixes to the railings on a deck of porch. In addition to having the bird bath close to reach for refilling, installing a bird bath on your deck or porch will allow you to enjoy the birds that flock to your bath up close and personal.

• Up in the Trees: What better place to put a bath for your birds than up in the trees? Choose a hanging bird bath that will suspend in your trees so that your birds will not have to leave home to get a drink of water or take a bath. Consider hanging a bird bath near a window so that you can enjoy the birds while they splish and splash. However, keep in mind that bird baths will need to be cleaned and refilled, so avoid hanging a bird bath too far out of your reach so that you will not be able to properly maintain the bath.

• In Your Garden: If space permits, consider creating a sanctuary for the birds in your area. Use stylish bird baths to add style and flair to your yard or garden. Since running water is popular with birds, often enticing them to visit your bird bath over a neighbor’s bird bath, use a fountain bird bath to add a special touch. In addition to enticing the birds in your area, the tranquil sound of running water will allow you to enjoy your outdoor space and relax in your garden.

• Under the Trees: Since many birds seek the shelter of bird baths to escape from summer’s oppressive heat, placing a bird bath under the shade of trees in your yard will further entice birds to your area. However, keep in mind that the leaves and other debris from the trees can cause the bird bath to become dirty quicker so that it requires cleaning more frequently. Also, the blocked view from the trees may not allow you to see the birds that visit your yard and enjoy the bird bath. Generally, individuals choose to place bird baths in open places to prevent hassles associated with frequent cleanings.

• Near Your Home: Watching birds frolic will allow you to relax and unwind in your own home. Place your bird bath near a window that will allow you to oversee your feathered friends. Great places to watch birds include the kitchen, living room, bed room, or home office. Imagine taking a break from work to enjoy watching the birds or watching the flock while washing dishes in your kitchen.

Wherever you decide to place your bird bath in your yard or garden, remember the reason: to entice birds to your yard. Furthermore, consider the great variety of styles and sizes that will allow you to find a bath that matches your personal tastes.

Introduction to the Water

Whether your pup is headed to the duck blind or you just want to teach him to swim for fun and exercise the techniques are the same.

Dogs are land mammals and are not born knowing how to swim. Occasionally a young dog will wade right in and go, but most need a gentle introduction and some encouragement to swim.

When the weather and water are warm, I start my pups on the water as soon as I bring them home from the breeder. The introductory lessons are the same for pups and grown dogs.

The main point to remember when introducing a pup to the water is don’t push or rush him. Give the pup a reason to want to swim — to retrieve, to follow you, or to chase another dog, and then allow him to choose to swim.

Once the pup knows he can swim, be sure to supply sufficient practice so he can learn to swim well. Much later in training you can work on force fetch and obedience to commands on the water.

Never throw or force into the water a dog that does not know how to swim. If you rush him he may panic. Once your pup is afraid of the water your job will be much harder.

Learning to Swim

The best set-up for getting your pup started swimming is warm water, a warm day, and a bottom that drops off gradually. You can wade in and walk or play with other dogs and allow your pup to follow. If you have a shallow stream, a long walk on a hot day is good. Your dog will enjoy the trip and sooner or later he will find himself in over his shoulders and swimming.

If your pup likes to retrieve, throw bumpers where he can still keep his feet on the bottom and retrieve. As he gains confidence gradually throw a bumper farther out — at some point he will have to swim to get it.

Sometimes I wade in holding the pup and have my wife or helper stand a short distance away in the water. Gently lower the pup into the water and face him toward my wife. She calls him and I let him go to swim a short distance to her. When he gets there my wife picks him up and makes a big fuss over him before turning him to face me and sending him back. As he gains confidence we back away from each other so he must swim farther each time.

One of my training ponds has a small island 50 feet long and 20 feet wide. This island is only 60 feet from the nearest shore. Big dogs can walk most of the way across but must swim a bit in the middle to get to shore. With an older pup I have waded out to the island carrying a reluctant swimmer. I set them on the shore and wade off to stand some short distance away in the water. No pup has stayed on the island long.

Stages

When they begin to swim most dogs will swim with the front end only. This results in a head-up, splashing stroke that is not very effective or efficient. This “puppy splashing” is common. With more experience a pup will engage his rear end and level out and swim.

Typically a new swimmer will start by splashing his way out and back to retrieve his bumper or ball. At some point you’ll observe that he splashes out to retrieve but swims on the return.

Once they begin to swim well on the return, it’s just a short time until most dogs begin to swim on the way out, too.

Some pups will go through these stages in one day, some in a week. Most dogs introduced to the water after six months of age take a little longer to work through these stages. Over the years I have had a few dogs that splashed for eight or 10 weeks before they swam well. With time, even the most determined splashers eventually learned to dig in and swim.

A final caution: be very careful about training on cold water. Cold water can be very uncomfortable and once your dog learns he doesn’t like cold water he may be reluctant to enter even warm water. Some trainers say the minimum water temperature for training grown dogs is 56 degrees, but for pups I want it at least 60 degrees, with warm air temperatures as well.

Have fun and enjoy your pup’s new water skills,

Pat Nolan

Would you put together a model plane without looking at the finished plane picture or looking at the plans? Does a builder build a house without a plan?

The answer to these is pretty clearly no. A homemade snake or other reptile cage is so much simpler though, you say. I can just put it together as I go. Not so, my young apprentice. There are many pitfalls awaiting the inexperienced. Simple things you can miss. Silly mistakes you can make, and believe me, it is very easy to make them. There are a host of things that can make a simple cage take much longer than it should plus some possible costly mistakes.

If you have never kept a reptile, then before you even plan a reptile cage, you need to do some research on what sort of cage your retile will need. A snake will need cages of certain dimensions; lizards will need other dimensions and arboreal species yet another type of cage with different dimensions. It’s also helpful if you know how large your pet will get so you can plan ahead.

Another benefit of a plan is it helps you to think about your pet reptiles other needs such as heat mats, basking lights, UV lights, misting systems, substrates, decorations such as artificial walls, artificial trees and branches, and how these can be made and placed in the cage.

Once you have a clear idea of what you want the finished product to look like and how large it will be you are ready to plan how you are going to construct it. At this stage, having a plan, however rudimentary, is important. Once you have a plan in place you can think through the issues. In many cases it will allow you to remove the problem before you even start, as the plan often reveals an error or issue. Naturally, the more detailed the reptile cage plan, the more you can make allowance for possible issues. It can also eliminate waste and save money as you only purchase the correct amount of material.

Having a plan is useful as it allows you to see and understand how the cage will be constructed. You can work out how you may want to alter the plan if you feel the need to change.

And finally a plan is essential for the construction phase. What goes where, what is the order of construction, what size should this piece be and so on.

When building a reptile enclosure, if the plans are detailed enough you will constantly refer to them. This also helps minimise those costly errors.

Using a plan, whether is be yours, someone else’s or a purchased plan, will save you time, money and effort. It will produce a much better result for you and your pet.

I did not create the “labels” Imperial or “Teacup.” These words were already set in stone before I ever came on board. I picked up the terms only because potential customers were asking me for “Imperial Size” or “Teacup Size.” I RARELY get a request for a “Standard” size shih tzu as defined by the American Kennel Club. Since these words of Imperial Shih Tzu and Teacup Shih Tzu were so common to describe a particular size of shih tzu and I was seeing these are the terms people place in search engines boxes looking for the size THEY WANT in a shih tzu, I began using the terms as well mainly to be able to communicate with potential customers in their own language.

The smaller size shih tzu are NOT smaller just because they are UNHEALTHY. This is a downright myth or lie being spread by those who are in favor of only one size shih tzu, which they say, is the only size shih tzu that should be on the market. And the ill-will I have heard from this group of people against these little guys is almost unreal, as if these smaller size shih tzus should not have the same rights as the “standard” size, maybe not even the “right to live” if this side of the poll had its ultimate way about things. And……as if people who have these little guys for sale command a higher price, that this is proof the breeder is doing something outrageously WRONG. Well……..like I said…….RARELY does anyone ask me for a “standard” size shih tzu. There is a huge market of individuals and families who prefer these smaller sizes including me. I like all the sizes, but the smaller ones are my favorite. They are like little tiny treasures, almost always sweeter than the bigger guys. To me, they are like a rare exquisite jewel in the midst of all kinds of other jewels. They do require more work on the part of the breeder. Often, to keep them going at first because they are so small they have to be hand-fed and fed extra supplements like Nutri-cal daily. For these reasons of being that tiny treasured, exquisite jewel, rare and unique from all the rest, and because of the all extra labor involved in raising them, they command a higher price.

And…….I still say, from all I have read…….the smaller size shih tzu…….most likely the under 6 pounds, the 7 and 8 pounders were the very first shih tzu to ever be brought into this world by the Chinese Emporess Dowager in the Imperial Palace of China. The bigger sizes were rejected by these early day breedings conducted in the Palace. They were often sold to the peasants in the streets. The smaller ones were kept under careful guard, were the ones actually very much pampered that slept on satin pillows in the palace, that were owned by the elite and wealthy of that period of time, were given as gifts to the diplomats that visited the Imperial Palace as the most ultimate gift of all to ever receive from the Princess. They were the shih tzu that was highly reverened and cherished. These little under the table dogs were sometimes so small the Chinese could carry them in their sleeves. Try getting a 9 to 16 lb. dog in your sleeve? Won’t work no matter how big that sleeve is. We owe all our bloodlines to these early breeders. The Princess was mean and ruthless and was known to have little regard for anyone else but her shih tzu. She was burned out several times and eventually I suppose when all the chips were down, she felt beaten, and was found to have committed suicide with all her little shih tzu around her. So the legends of the shih tzu are steeped in mysterious myths and stories that it is no wonder there is still so much controversy about them and……it is about these little guys the most it seems. They seem to be the most mysterious of all - another reason why they command a higher price tag. They are EXQUISITE LITTLE CREATURES.

They actually do belong recognized in a class all their own. I hope to see The American Kennel Club someday do just that. New breeds are being created everyday. I don’t know why this group of people against the little guys try to make such a fuss over them not being appropriate to be anything but a PET and they imply any breeder having them are doing something outrageously wrong to the breed. I wonder do people carry on the same about Teacup Poodles? These little under 6 pounders would be so cute in the showring and in fact, I have a picture of one who was 6 pounds who won a championship (one of my shih tzu books). They belong in a class all their own. Name them Imperials. Name them Teacups. Do away with the Teacup name. Don’t matter to me on that.

At first very few people got hold of these little guys. Why? Because they were one of a kind - like a very precious jewel in the midst of all kinds of other jewels.

I also think that because so many other people were able to get hold of the bigger sizes in those days is where these bigger sizes now came from. They went out all over to other countries - but not the tiny treasures of the Imperial Palace. They were the secret of that period of time. They are still fairly rare, fairly scarce. Anything that can be produced in vast numbers is always “cheaper.” I remember when VCR’s and Microwaves first came out, they were so expensive I thought I could never own one. But then……they started being manufactured by the millions, which brought the prices down, and many other people could afford them.

Right now, these little guys are still fairly scarce, which makes their value go up also. And they are many times just as healthy as the bigger guys.

I wonder don’t these people who are against the little guys know that even humans come in all sizes and shapes……what if suddenly there was some kind of a stamp put on humans and if every person was not the weight of 170 pounds and 6 foot tall, they were deemed INAPPROPRIATE to be alive…….There are big people and little people and I am so grateful because I am one of the little people standing about 5 feet 2 inches tall. My weight has gone up through the years, so I might qualify as a person based on weight…….

I cherish the smaller sizes. All of mine have been extra joy to have around!!!! I don’t in-breed them or have some kind of special formula to create them. Size is created by genes of the bloodlines. And yes, you could call the smallest in the crew a runt just the same. Personally though, I like the word “teacup” better. I think it more closely describes them and is a cuter term. If I were breeding Police Dogs, or Alaskan Working Dogs, I would call the smallest one in the crew, the runt. But I choose to call the smallest shih tzu - teacups and imperials. In my mind, that simply means a certain size. Rather than saying, I want a dog 6 pounds or under. A person can say I want a Teacup, and I know the size they are asking me for.

Birds are usually attracted by the geographical locations and tend to move to the place that resembles to their favorite location. Therefore, you must refer to the specialty magazines and documentations to find out the type of birds in your area and the geographical location those birds like. You can consult books based on the migration and species of birds to find out the details about the species of birds that are found in your area in summers and winters as many birds migrate from one place to another for the same. The best way is to take the photograph of the birds that you see in your surroundings and then find the information about that bird to acknowledge the type of location these birds thrive for.

The best way to attract a large number of birds is to have a source of water, that is, a pond or pool of any size. This would attract many ducks, gooses or birds at your garden.

The next thing the birds look for is food, the second basic necessity for living beings. Therefore, arrange for a place where the adequate food such as bird seeds, bread or any bird food like corn is available easily. Many birds love to eat sun-flower seeds that are easy to find and are inexpensive also. You must look for the needs of each and every type of birds in your area to meet their demands.

By following the above stated methods you can attract the large number of birds in your garden. You must not keep scarecrow or anything like that in the garden as it may scare the birds away from your garden. For example- in many cases the neighbor’s dog is a big threat for the birds and birds usually don’t like to live there where there are dogs.

Remember its not so that every breed of birds would adjust with every other breed, therefore such two breeds must not stay together in your garden. The garden should have a natural look and there should be no noise of children or any such loud noises that may disturb the birds. It’s very important to understand the nature of birds you are inviting to your garden.

With careful planning, bringing home a puppy to share with your family can be a wonderful experience. However, a new puppy is a lot of hard work.

Before you ever bring your new puppy home, you must prepare your home for the new member of the family. To “puppy proof” your home, it is a good idea to get down on the floor where the puppy will be and look around from his eye level. Electrical cords, houseplants, “lost” items under furniture, and stairs are some of the things that could seriously hurt a puppy.

As soon as you bring your puppy home, it’s important to call your vet and make an appointment to have the puppy examined. Your vet will want to start vaccinations and de-worming at this time, and will help you schedule the series of shots your dog will need at this young age. If you are concerned about flea prevention, your vet can help you choose a product that is safe to use on puppies.

Your puppy will need a puppy food that is 100% balanced nutrition for puppies. This will be found right on the label. With a high quality puppy food, tailored for a growing puppy’s nutritional needs, it won’t be necessary to add any vitamins to his diet. At all times, clean water should be available for the puppy to drink.

A real challenge for any new puppy owner is house training. The best way to begin this process is to confine your puppy to a very small area of the house at first, or perhaps purchase a crate. Half of this area should be covered with newspaper, while the other half should be created as his sleeping area. Puppies don’t want to sleep in a wet or soiled bed, so they will go to the newspaper. When you see this behavior, praise him and offer him a treat. As the puppy begins to understand the process, you can gradually give him more space and begin to work on out-of-doors training.

A puppy is a baby! He needs proper rest and playtime stay happy and healthy. Providing your puppy with a soft, comfortable bed and several puppy-friendly toys will help with this. Get down on the floor with your puppy at playtime.

Puppies are a joy to have in the home and as we all know, they’re so cute. With just a little effort, your puppy will be a problem-free member of the family in no time at all.

When Joe–at the age of seventeen–neared his last days, I ran away from home. I knew I wouldn’t be able to take it. Yes, literally I escaped witnessing my favorite pet’s death. Probably that’s why he still feels alive to me.

Joe, a Newfoundland mix, was plucked from the town’s pound when he was a six week-old puppy. Although a mix, he had all the traits of the breed, starting with loyalty, gentleness, and watching over our children. He loved life and he loved food. Twelve years after his passing, our sons still consider him as their younger brother. As a breed, a Newfoundland is considered a working dog, but Joe was the most wonderful pet one could ever wish for.

The Newfoundland is thought to be a cousin to the now extinct American Black Wolf, which also had the classical white spot on its chest. During the first attempts of the conquistadors to settle the new continent, Newfoundlands roamed the plains in huge, wild packs since they were indigenous to North America.

What Thoreau said in Walden about Newfoundlands does not even begin to do this breed justice. “A man is not a good man to me because he will feed me if I should be starving, or warm me if I should be freezing, or pull me out of a ditch if I should ever fall into one. I can find you a Newfoundland dog that will do as much.” Newfoundlands are much more than that. They are not only working dogs but also the most loyal companions one can ever hope for.

For centuries, these dogs were tamed and trained by the Indians, Algonquins and later the Sioux, as load carriers before the Spaniards introduced the horse to the Americas.

Newfoundlands were also the breed who traveled on explorers’ ships. As a good watchdog, a Newfoundland was the dog of choice on board. The dog also had swimming, life-saving, and sniffing abilities. A Newfoundland smelled land before it could be seen from the ship and alerted everyone with his excited behavior.

The Newfoundland of today is a big heavy dog with muscular shoulders, strong neck, strong-boned forelegs, long black fur with a white spot on the chest, and a powerful body. The original Newfoundland had a short neck, but in today’s dog shows, the breed is expected to have a longer neck to help carry itself with dignity. The average adult dog is 28 inches high and weighs somewhere between 120 to 150 pounds.

Some Newfoundlands have white and black or bronze fur as opposed to the general black with white tuft on chest. The coat of an average Newfoundland is bright black and water resistant. Its outer layer is long and smooth in contrast to the short and dense inner layer. The lesser Newfoundland or St. John’s Newfoundland is the smaller version of the original breed.

The temperament of this breed is inimitable. Incredible feats of Newfoundlands abound in the news media, because intelligent and unusually adaptable dogs that they are, they quickly figure out what their owners want to do and they start working with their owners toward the same goals.

A Newfoundland is very loyal, dignified, fun-loving and soft-natured. His gentleness and serenity has made him the star of children’s stories, like the Newfoundland in Peter Pan.

The feats of this breed have been etched in history as well. It is said, when Leif Ericson visited Newfoundland in 1001, he carried his dogs with him that mated with the original Newfoundlands, thus producing the forefathers of the present day Newfoundland dogs.

A brave Newfoundland saved a French emperor from drowning. That emperor was Napoleon Bonaparte.

During the Civil War, a Newfoundland named Major fought the confederates by biting them until he was killed with a musket shot to his head in the Battle of Mansfield, Lousiana.

During World War II, Newfoundlands were used as carriers of water, supplies, and ammunition. Canadians claim that they have documented proof that this dog was in existence even during 3000 BC together with the Canadian Indians of Newfoundland who buried their dead together with their dogs.

The Newfoundland has been made the official animal emblem on October 5, 1972, by the government of Newfoundland, Canada. Not only the Newfoundland as breed has his picture on the Canadian stamps now, but also a Newfoundland as pet has carved his love in this owner’s heart.

Naming your cat has to be one of the most difficult choices you will have to make. Most cats come home as kittens and will display a unique personality which may suggest name to you. Soon however, they may change and the name you first thought of may seem silly or inappropriate. If you have had cats before and allowed your child to choose, Henry soon became Henrietta. Perhaps you named a cat Tiny and later they outgrew their name. Her are some ideas to get you started on choosing the best name for your four legged companion.

1. Look around the neighborhood. Are there any place names that you can adapt kitty’s name to?

2. Cats have been named after people, song titles, movies and other things that appeal to their owners.

3. How independent is your new cat. If they need constant attention then a cute cuddly name will be better. If they are aloof, then maybe an upper class name or title will suit better.

4. Consider the length of the name you choose. If it’s too long you will probably shorten it later, so be careful or else you will have a cat with two names!

5. What season were they born in and what was the weather like?

6. Is pussy’s color distinctive? If so use a variation.

7. Let a child make up a name. it can be any child; yours , the neighbor’s, a child walking past. Kids often say the craziest things and sometimes it just works for a new kitty!

8. Choose short names that are easy for pussy to remember too. After all you don’t want to confuse the master of the house with a difficult to remember name!

9. what school do you think your cat should attend? Maybe Harvard or Yale or possibly an English college. There are some great names there.

10. Does pussy remind you of anyone famous or do you want her to be remembered as an historical character.

11. What about a rock star? Does pussy look like a lead guitarist or a drummer. Look at the names of rock bands and their members. (Band members are people who could have made an equally comfortable living making up names for cats.)

12. what about a business name. does your new kitten look like a budding media mogul or CEO of an Internet giant? If so just go straight to the yellow pages and look at the names.

If all of these tips fail, then you may just have to let pussy choose her/himself. Here’s how to do just that. First, talk to her and ask questions about possible names. When she hears her name she may respond with a cute “yes that’s my name” or alternatively “No, now get serious”. Sometimes kitty will pay attention if you seem to be on the right track, and other time just walk away. Either way she’s given you an idea, so why not try it even if you don’t like the choice. Using this method, you will soon learn a valuable lesson, and that is, whichever way you look at it, pussy will always get her own way.