Archive for March, 2008

The Attempted Murder of My Jack Russell Terrier

Monday, March 31st, 2008

My dog Jimbo is your typical Jack Russell Terrier.

He thinks he’s a Great Dane, fears no other creature, and believes himself utterly invincible.

Every day of his canine life he has, in constant vigilance guarded and patrolled his territory, of the which solely consists of…me, my husband, my house, and six acres of a mostly wooded yard. And as he considers his job to be intensely serious, he continuously seeks my attention…to take notice of this most valiant and diligent vocation.

Each day, without fail, he will patiently wait for me to come home. And as my car approaches, Jimbo, purposely placing himself in my full view, will suddenly dart across the path of the car in seemingly hot pursuit of, it would appear, some phantom intruder. And I always play along with this charade, praising loudly, commending the little ham for being such an astute watchdog.

Recently one afternoon I sat sipping tea at my favorite spot on the back deck that overlooks the woods not twenty feet away. Jimbo sat contentedly at my feet when suddenly we heard some sort of creature, and one that, by the sound of the footsteps, appeared to be rather large.

Jimbo was immediately to his feet pointed towards the direction of the trespasser…and obviously ready to lurch.

In a moment the creature showed itself from behind the bush. It was a large doe and incredibly, as the deer in this area are extremely shy, she was fearlessly coming nearer and nearer.

Jimbo, like a streak of lightning, did lurch, charging the doe with all the speed and agility so afforded Jack Russells. But to my surprise, as well as Jimbo’s, this doe, without a shred of shyness, charged my Jimbo, coming very nearly close to stomping his little head with vicious ferocity.

But Jimbo was quick and escaped, albeit just barely. And this feisty doe, who held no resemblance whatever to the sweet and mild natured mother deer in the movie Bambi, glared at him as he skipped away, disgusted having missed the opportunity to utterly murder him and turned slowly and disappeared into the wood.

Now it was immediately clear that Jimbo viewed this hoof-pounding-near-death-experience as a triumphant conquest for him, and at the same time fulfilling a life-long dream…that I would at last be a front row witness to him in full action…the conquering homeland defense dog. And he couldn’t believe his luck, that the challenger turned out to be a creature as huge as a deer! What a show of bravery! What a test of strength! And ALL with my master’s full attention!

I never, ever saw him so cocky. However, little did he know that a week later he would be facing this same foe…but this time at Waterloo.

It was late Sunday afternoon as I sat at my computer on the second story of our home. My husband had just come up to get something from the balcony when, frantically, he slammed the door back shouting, “Something’s Got Jimbo!!”

It was then that I heard screams that I never heard any creature make - sometimes like a woman, sometimes like gutteral gurglings of total and utter desperation. It was quite a distance from the house but amazingly my husband made his way to the crime in seconds. I could only stand on the balcony screaming Jimbo’s name.

But just as my husband reached the spot, which was hidden from my view, I saw Jimbo spring from the bush running as I have never seen an animal run. Close behind was my husband, and following not far behind him, prancing a most sinister prance, was that same ferocious deer from the week before.

I ran downstairs and into the yard and found both my husband and Jimbo hiding in the shed out of breath, shaking, pupils dialated black with fear, complete terror still on their faces. I turned to see the lunatic deer, head proudly held high, again disappear into the wood.

To this day Jimbo wears a small dent in his skull just above his left eye. The attempted murder was unsuccessful and he still patrols our yard with all valiant diligence. However, he takes no notice, not even a stolen, fleeting glance of one particular trespasser, one who frequently and most freely roams and grazes any part of our yard she so pleases.

Even teasingly she will feed close to Jimbo’s dog house, daring him to but wink at her.

But he never acknowledges her presence, in fact…he does not speak of the matter at all.

Trisha Adams

How to Predict and Locate the Deer

Sunday, March 30th, 2008

In hunting deer there are times when your predictions could become more reliable than your experiences. In this article you will learn how a good prediction can give better result from the author’s experience.

One of the others accompanied me into the woods, the fourth man circling to a place where he thought the deer might cross a wood road. I saw the deer several times that day, but the man whom I had stationed on the road killed it after sunset at the crossing I had predicted the deer would use at that time. It is unusual to be correct in making long-range predictions such as this unless the hunter is familiar with the actions of the particular deer which he is following, the deer’s range and its feeding grounds. In the above case, I had followed the same deer in the same area several days before and I was quite sure it would leave the large piece of woods for a favored feeding ground as soon as it was hungry. In order to reach this feeding area, it would have to cross a road, and the crossing which I selected was the most probable of the ones which crossed the road.

One of the most discouraging hunts I have ever experienced occurred when I trailed two deer all day long, knew where they were going for a half-hour before they arrived, was unable to get a companion in position for the kill and was unable to do the job myself.

After almost a day of frustration, I sent two men to cover a crossing and they let the deer pass, unseen, between them. When I arrived at the crossing, they joined me on the track long enough to determine the deer’s future intentions. This did not take long, but my companions were uncertain and would not go to the place which I had picked as the next crossing. I left them to follow the trail while I went to a gap in a stone wall which I thought the deer would use.

It would be necessary for the deer to cross a small open field in order to reach this gap so I stationed myself about a hundred feet away where I could watch both field and gap. The deer came into sight about a hundred yards away, walking towards the gap. They approached at an angle and when they were about a hundred feet from me and about the same distance from the gap, I fired and missed. They broke into a run and I fired five more shots without a hit. Six shots and six misses at a distance of not over two hundred feet was the frustrating climax of a frustrating day.

These incidents have all had does leading the chase. When it comes to predicting what a lone buck will do, we have a different proposition. In the first place, it is difficult to define a buck’s range, and, during the hunting season, he is seldom on that range but off hunting does. If the hunter runs across a buck which is away from his home range, but has not attached himself to some doe, he will probably head for his old range if started and if followed for any great distance. When I run across one of these ranging bucks, I consider myself lucky if I have the opportunity to sight him twice before he heads for home. By the time I am sure of his intentions, it is usually too late to contact a companion and try to get ahead of the deer.

It can be more frustrated when a hunter get no deer to hunt when he go for hunting in the forest, and this situation can spoil the chances for a hunter to cover when trailing for the deer. But a better study on how to make the prediction will help the hunter to locate the deer.

Goldfish Disease Prevention And Treatment

Tuesday, March 25th, 2008

Many goldfish are imported in very cold water, in crowded conditions, making them very susceptible to disease (especially ich). Although goldfish are not very particular about water conditions, they still do better at a ph of 7.2 to 7.8 and a high mineral content (especially calcium and magnesium- KH of 80 ppm or more).

Goldfish also are basically “grazing fish” and need to be fed frequent small amounts of fish food that are not made from animal based products. Goldfish do well on foods high in vegetable based proteins (such as spirulina), they need a high fat content and Vitamins C & E, and carotenoid for color enhancement.

Canister filters are great for goldfish, due to there high efficiency and great bio load and mechanical filtration abilities (although make sure to clean them regularly, or they become nitrate factories). Unfortunately they are generally expensive. A combination of “hang on back” filters (such as ReSun and Aqua Clear) and sponge filters are an excellent combination for less money.

Regular water changes are a must. A small 20% change once per week is best (sometimes larger less frequent changes can be performed as per one’s busy schedule). Using a gravel vacuum is the best and easiest way to change water (a new device called an “Aquarium Cleaning Machine” is awesome for larger tanks). Make sure the water is of similar ph and temperature and has no chlorine or choramine when you add it to your aquarium.

Remember, goldfish are dirty animals, can grow up to 12” (or more), so house them in an appropriate aquarium for good health and long life. Even if you start out with a ten gallon aquarium, I recommend moving up to a 45-60 gallon aquarium as soon as possible.

Add or subtract many of these points, and your goldfish may have problems. I recommend ”Wonder Shells” (For ph and KH control) or “Medicated Wonder Shells” for prevention and/ or treatment of goldfish disease (ich/ fungus), and water conditions. Of coarse good maintenance, proper feeding, proper filtration, are not replaced by this product. I have used this product on my aquarium maintenance route (27 years experience) with GREAT results.

Cat Training Aids on The Market

Monday, March 24th, 2008

There are many types of cat-training aids on the market. Some of the most helpful training tools are leashes, a scat mat, catnip, toys, and food treats.

Having a simply and lightweight cat leash lets you train your cat to go for a walk or ride in the car. Cats require exercise, and using a leash while taking a walk with your cat outside will provide protection and keep the cat from running off. You want the cat to walk with you, not ahead of you, so train the cat to expect that you will be the leader. Both of you will enjoy your walks much more if this approach is taken.

The scat mat is good for showing cats that certain areas are not open to them. These devices send out pulses of static electricity when a cat enters the forbidden area. There are many sizes and colors of scat mats. Some even come in transparent versions so the cat cannot see that they are on the area. Additionally, scat mats are safe to use. They can be connected if you have especially large areas where you do not want your cat to go. Dummy scat mats do not include the electric pulse and may be used after the cat is trained to provide reminders of appropriate behavior.

Catnip can be used on cat litter to attract the cat to the litter box. Male cats tend to respond more to catnip, which has a scent similar to the urine of a female cat. Catnip comes in different forms for training. Toys that are filled with catnip can help a cat to learn a specific behavior. For fund, catnip in bubble form is available. It is similar to the kind of soap-bubble toy that children play with, but it has an added scent of catnip. The product is safe for your cat and will not harm him or her. Catnip is also available in a powered form that you can rub on your hand. You can even buy catnip seed and plant it inside or outside your home to give the cat a real treat.

If your cat is pouncing on things like it would pounce on a mouse, it may be useful to give the cat a toy mouse. Cats, by nature, will pounce as if they are killing something. Having a toy mouse lets the cat act in a normal way. Some toy mice on the market can be wound up so the cat can chase them. Others may be stuffed with catnip. Training a cat has a lot to do with letting it fulfill its natural instincts. A cat that can perform its normal activities will be a happier and healthier companion.

Offering healthy food rewards is another good tool for training a cat. Many cat treats include vitamins so you will know that the cat is getting what it needs nutritionally. If you are a baker, you might want to try to make your own cat treats. There are even prepackaged mixes available.

Remember to be patient with your cat while it is learning.

Boxer - Facts Every Owner of this Dog Breed Should Know

Sunday, March 23rd, 2008

A German breed descending from mastiffs, the Boxer was originally bred for the purpose of hunting. The first Boxers were bred to be fierce but these traits are not seen today. Boxers today tend to be gentle, loving and energetic dogs. They are stocky dogs of a medium size. Male Boxers will grow to an average height of 22 to 25 inches and weight of 60 to 70 pounds. Females Boxers will reach an average height of 21 to 24 inches and weight of 53 to 65 pounds. Boxers have an average life span of 11 to 14 years. Their coats are smooth and shorthaired, making Boxers easy to groom. In fact, Boxers tend to be ‘clean freaks’ and will clean themselves regularly. Generally, Boxer coats come in only two colors: brindle and fawn.

Some Boxers have white markings on them, known as flash, which can extend all over making them appear white. Boxers have short muzzles and their lower jaws extend past their upper ones. This gives them a very secure bite, something useful when they were hunting. Boxers are considered highly intelligent and easy to train. However, they can be independent thinkers and this can make them stubborn and sneaky. Though energetic they are gentle with children and other animals (if properly socialized) and make an excellent family pet.

They enjoy playing with children and will protect its family when a stranger approaches. Once introduced to the stranger, though, he will become a friend and the Boxer will greet him with enthusiasm in the future. Boxers are energetic dogs that love to run, jump, fetch and play so once daily exercise at a minimum is required. Boxers tend to be fairly active indoors and may become destructive if not given time to ‘burn off some steam.’ A well fenced in yard (if off leash) is also a must. Boxers are prone to many medical problems. Due to their short snouts, they tend to snore and drool, and have difficulty regulating their body temperature, making it difficult for them to live in locations where temperature extremes are common.

Boxers are also more likely to develop cardiomyopathy, sub-aortic stenosis, and hip dysplasia. Some Boxers are prone to epilepsy, and from age eight on they are more likely to get tumors than other breeds. They tend to have allergies and some Boxers may have excessive flatulence. Some white Boxers are prone to deafness. Boxers may also develop corneal dystrophy or Demodectic mange and some are prone to bloat. torsion (bloat) and if they do not get enough exercise will quickly become obese, leading to other health problems.

There is a website that has great information on Boxers and most other breeds of dogs. It has details that pertain to a dog breeds health, grooming, living conditions, best food choices and more, the website is called: Dog And Cat Facts, and can be found at this url =>http://www.dogandcatfacts.com

Copyright © 2006 Robert W. Benjamin

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.

Is the Golden Retriever the Best Breed for You?

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

The purpose of this article is to improve the public’s knowledge about dogs, the Golden Retriever in particular. Many people decide that they want a dog based off of appearance alone. While this may not be a terrible thing to do if the person has the ability to accommodate all types of dogs, for some individuals the care for specific types of dog breeds is not possible. The best way to avoid any surprises after the adopting or purchase of a dog is to understand the breed and what it takes to care for it. We will go over some of the basic characteristics of the Golden Retriever to help you get a better understanding of the Golden Retriever as a breed and possibly a new addition to your family.

The Golden Retriever is possibly the most all- around, good natured dog on earth. The golden is known for its talents in many things from being great guide dogs for the blind, to sniffing out drugs and retrieving hunted animals. The best attribute of this breed is their gentle demeanor and unwavering, sweet temperament. Standing about 24 inches and weighing about 75 lbs, the Golden Retriever is a large dog which must get a lot of high quality food and regular exercise to keep their waist line in check. This breed is not very demanding in the grooming department, just routine maintenance. Since this is such a popular breed it has lent itself to a lot of over breeding by people who are not necessarily committed to producing a high quality animal. Be sure to buy from a reputable breeder so that you can ensure that all of the fantastic qualities of the Golden Retriever, both physical and behavioral, and displayed by your new companion.

We hope that we have assisted you I your quest for knowledge and understanding of the Golden Retriever. Please look below for some additional resources. The first thing you will want to do is see what the Golden Retriever looks like. The next thing you will need to do is house train your Golden Retriever. We find that one of the most common reasons that someone will get rid of Golden Retriever’s is that they are not house trained. There is a wonderful manual that can be used and you will find the link below. Lastly we want you to show off your new Golden Retriever. There is a wonderful online dog community complete with a forum for you to post pictures to. Check it out.

The key to success is to love your Golden Retriever and nothing will help you achieve that more than bonding with them. Spend time with your Golden Retriever and make them a happy and healthy addition to your family.

Dog Clothes-Let Dogs Be Dogs

Friday, March 21st, 2008

Many dog owners love to dress up their little pooches in small dog clothes, and we’re no exception. Our Chihuahuas, Sox and Bruiser, have just as many small dog clothes and small dog sweaters as any other pampered pup. Dressing up little dogs can have a very important function, especially in the harsh cold of winter. Dog booties can protect paws from rock salt and collections of ice in between toes. Small dog sweaters and dog coats protect thin coated breeds form losing too much heat to the freezing wind and ward off frost bite. They also help small dogs in warmer climates that stay inside very air conditioned houses. Having the right small dog clothes is an important step in keeping your little one safe and warm through winter.

Even with the functions small dog clothing serves, there is a point where dressing up your dogs can go too far. Putting a dog costume on them one night for a Halloween or Christmas party is fine, but putting dog clothes and booties on them everyday can be detrimental. When the weather isn’t cold, dog clothes can lead to overheating, and the excessive bootie wear can soften the natural calluses on a dog’s paws. Softened paws become sore easily and are more susceptible to damage.

We tend to project human status onto our dogs, but sometimes it’s best to just let dogs be dogs.

Labrador Retrievers - Beloved Companion and Therapy Dogs

Thursday, March 20th, 2008

By far the most common use of today’s Labrador is as a home companion, a role at which he excels. Surprisingly, the Labrador Retriever was rarely kept strictly as a house pet until several decades after the breed’s introduction to the united States. The initial fanciers of the breed became acquainted with him through knowledge of the shooting game. When the breed was well established as a sporting companion, his docile, brainy nature won his way out of the kennel and into the home.

The Labrador Retriever’s ability to quickly adapt and respond to instruction made the transition quite easy. Today, puppies raised in the home actually become so entwined in the lives of their owners that they often suffer when relegated to the kennel life. (If you are planning to keep a kennel of Labradors, select puppies that are properly socialized but still familiar with kennel life.)

As a companion, the Labrador Retriever is good-natured and gentle enough to accept the roughhousing of youngsters without returning it. If properly socialized while young, a Labrador will share his “home with another dog, providing there is enough affection for all. It is more common for a Labrador to misbehave out of jealousy than out of dislike for another animal.

Labrador Retrievers are long on self-control and loyalty, but they do not make the most avid watchdogs. As a rule, they are not overly suspicious of strangers or highly protective of loved ones, and when natural instincts are not stimulated they can be inattentive to such a task. Always keen for a scent or sound, a Labrador Retriever would certainly give voice at the approach of an intruder, but he might be won over by a friendly gesture or a luscious piece of sirloin. If left on duty, a Labrador Retriever may wander off in search of a scent that has caught his attention. In short, he is a people-dog. If you really need a watchdog, get your Labrador a German Shepherd friend!

The value of companionship with this breed should not be underestimated. In recent years, obedience-trained Labradors as well as other breeds are being used as Therapy Dogs to enrich the lives of nursing home residents and even emotionally disturbed children. The process is simple: a group of experienced dog handlers, such as those trained by Therapy Dogs International, bring their dogs to visit, perhaps put on an obedience performance for the audience, and then let animals and humans mingle, if conditions permit. The dogs are all obedience trained and have proven themselves to be extremely gentle and outgoing. Their job is to make people feel wanted, and it works wonders for alleviating the loneliness and depression that often burden such lives. Labradors love people and the few hours Therapy Dogs share with others enrich both dog and man.

Dog Training part II - Age for early training

Wednesday, March 19th, 2008

Dog training begins virtually at birth. Dogs that are handled and petted by humans regularly during the first eight weeks of life are generally much more amenable to being trained and living in human households. Ideally, puppies should be placed in their permanent homes between about 8 and 10 weeks of age. In some places it is against the law to take puppies away from their mothers before the age of 8 weeks. Before this age, puppies are still learning tremendous amounts of socialization skills from their mother. Puppies are innately more fearful of new things during the period from 10 to 12 weeks, which makes it harder for them to adapt to a new home.

Puppies can begin learning tricks and commands as early as 8 to 12 weeks of age; the only limitations are the pup’s stamina, concentration, and physical coordination. It is much easier to live with young dogs that have already learned basic commands such as sit. Waiting until the puppy is much older and larger and has already learned bad habits makes the training much more difficult.

There are some professional trainers who disagree with this idea, particularly those who train working dogs, detection dogs, police dogs, etc. They feel that obedience work shouldn’t start until the dog is at least a year old, or after the prey drive has fully developed. These trainers also take the position that spaying and neutering is harmful to the training process, again because of its negative impact on the dog’s prey drive.

Next: Dog Training part III - Communicating with the dog

Dogs and Children - A Good Combination?

Tuesday, March 18th, 2008

Some people may think that it an anomaly that we often hear stories of dogs attacking children and yet, parents still choose to bring dogs into their families with little thought of the possible adverse consequences.

The vast majority of families with a dog will thankfully never have to deal with any of the terrible situations we hear about on the news. Dogs love people. Most dogs love children. Children generally love dogs as much as their parents do, and it is very doubtful that after thousands of years the connection between canine and humankind will be broken.

So the question is how to make the best possible environment for your children and your dog so that you won’t need to worry unduly about unexpected tragedy.

Experts generally agree upon at least three key areas which must be borne in mind when bringing a dog into a household with children.

First, be sure that very young children, as well as older children who may display immature, or impulsive, behaviors, are NEVER left unattended with a dog. Your dog is unlikely to suddenly choose to attack, but a dog - like a small child itself - will not always choose the best response when it is unintentionally teased, harmed or threatened in play. You wouldn’t leave small children unattended in play for more than a few seconds or minutes (depending upon their age). So if your child and your dog are together, you should be even more vigilant, as the potential for accidents is at least doubled.

Secondly, you should discourage roughhousing with the dog. Larger dogs can generally handle more play, without becoming agitated. But this is not a universal comment. Some large breeds may become agitated, or excited, in play and accidently harm your child. Large breeds may easily knock over small children unintentionally. Obviously smaller breeds could feel endangered with rough play and feel compelled to protect themselves from harm. Toughhousing is therefore to be discouraged with all breeds.

Thirdly, ensure that your family dog is moderately well trained. While some trainers may feel that the owner is adequately qualified to take on this task, you may wish to consider having your dog professionally trained if possible.

Aggression can happen with even the most loving owners when incorrect training, or improper handling of the dog is not addressed early on. Choosing a fully-trained dog may give you greater peace of mind you are looking for when selecting a pet for your children. Or if you train the dog yourself, you need to ensure that the dog understands that YOU are the top dog, AND that the dog is NOT above your children in the pecking order.

There are many other issues that are important to consider when buying a dog for your family. But taking the time to understand and learn about dogs before bringing one home, is definitely more conducive to you finding the life-long friend your children deserve!

(c) 2005 - Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs