Pet Information

Pets are an integral part of many families. They love us, comfort us, and they have their own unique personalities. And the loss of a dog or cat can be a very painful experience. But how do you cope mourning the loss of a pet?

The loss of a pet is very similar to the loss of a human relative or companion. However, many people (usually those who have never had a cat or dog as a companion) simply can’t imagine that the pain and depression you feel is real, or that it should be real. But be assured, the pain you feel for the loss of your dog is as real and as valid as the pain you feel for the loss of Uncle Roscoe. And you should recognize that you are going to experience much of what a person would feel at the loss of a human companion when mourning the loss of a pet.

These feelings will usually progress through guilt, denial, anger, and depression.

Guilt will usually be expressed in an “if only I had been more careful” attitude. Since the dog or cat can’t watch out for itself, it must have been my fault. Thus we blame ourselves or try to second guess ourselves in the actions we took – or didn’t take.

Denial, as with the loss of a human companion, is a strong desire for the loss not to have occurred. This feeling can even keep you from adopting a new companion from the guilt of being disloyal to the lost one. However, adopting a new companion will probably do the most to help you complete the grieving process.

Anger will be directed at the veterinarian who failed to save your companion, the driver of the car that hit and killed your cat, or the other animals who may have played a part in your companion’s death. While this is certainly normal, it doesn’t change anything and should be worked through with the goal of getting through your grief but should be recognized as a natural part of mourning the loss of a pet.

The final stage is depression. The worst aspect of depression is that the very condition leaves you powerless to work through your feelings – you’re too depressed to do anything or want to do anything. It’s here that support and understanding from those around you can be most effective.

Above all, get back in the game. As we said at the beginning of the article, pets are a tremendous source of comfort for us and a new companion can help us cope with the irreversible loss of the previous companion. I hope by recognizing these natural morning emotions that you can with understand and gain comfort when mourning the loss of a pet.

Every year the American Kennel Club releases the number of dogs registered for each dog breed, and that information is used to discover the favorite dog breeds in the United States for that year. Here are the AKC favorites for 2006:

• Labrador Retriever (137,867)

• Golden Retriever (48,509)

• Yorkshire Terrier (47,2
• German Shepherd Dog (45,014)

• Beagle (42,592)

• Dachshund (38,566)

• Boxer (37,2
• Poodle (31,6
• Shih Tzu (28,087)

• Miniature Schnauzer (24,144)

Compare this list with the top ten dogs from the United Kingdom’s list:

• Labrador Retriever

• English Cocker Spaniel

• English Springer Spaniel

• German Shepherd Dog

• Staffordshire Bull Terrier

• Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

• Golden Retriever

• West Highland Terrier

• Boxer

• Border Terrier

Interesting that there are several dog breeds in the U.K. top ten list that are not near the top ten in the United States.

In the United States the Labrador Retriever has been in the number one position for 16 years in a row. Meanwhile the Chihuahua slipped from 10th place to number 11th, replaced by the Miniature Schnauzer.

It’s not surprising that the two most popular dog breeds in the United States and Canada are the Labrador Retriever and the Golden Retriever. Both are such wonderful dogs to own with their easy-going nature and high intelligence.

These two dog breeds, along with the German Shepherd Dog, made the top ten dog list in the U.S., Canada, and the U.K. The Labrador Retriever and Golden Retriever make great dogs for families and are listed in a top ten list of dogs for children.

In the same list of “child-friendly dogs” are the Beagle, Poodle, French Bulldog, Pug, Cairn Terrier, Old English Sheepdog, King Charles Spaniel and Cocker Spaniel, several of which made the AKC top ten dog list.

Looking at the United States AKC top ten dog list the Yorkshire Terrier has moved up to third place, it’s highest point since it became recognized by the AKC in 1885. With their spirited, loving yet willful personality, they deserve to be among the top ten popular dog breeds. Their only drawback is the daily grooming required, but that’s little inconvenience compared to the love they give.

While the Labrador Retriever has been number one since 1991, the breed that held the number one position the longest is the Cocker Spaniel, from 1936 to 1952 and again from 1983 to 1990 for a total of 23 years. Watch for the Labrador Retriever to beat that record.

The Poodle comes in a very close second for the number of years as America’s favorite breed; 1960 to 1982, a total of 22 years. It was in 1972 that the large breeds took over as America’s favorites when the Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers and Chow Chows rose in popularity throughout the 1980s and 1990s.

By comparison, small dogs held anywhere from one to four slots in the top ten at that time. However, as we entered into the new millennium small dogs have increased in popularity among Americans, perhaps due to their portability or perhaps because celebrities are making these smaller breeds more visible.

Notice all the small dogs that are in the list of the 11-20 most popular:

• Chihuahua (23,575)

• Pug (22,064)

• Bulldog (20,556)

• Pomeranian (19,511)

• Cocker Spaniel (16,343)

• Rottweiler (15,916)

• Boston Terrier (15,852)

• Shetland Sheepdog (14,2
• Maltese (13,676)

• German Shorthaired Pointer (13,273)

Four of these dogs are from the AKCs Toy group and another, the Boston Terrier, is a small dog from the Terrier group. Add the five small dogs from the top ten list and that’s why the new millennium seems to belong to the small dog.

Whatever your favorite breed, we can all agree that dogs continue to hold a very special place in the hearts of millions of Americans, and this is a bond that needs no special breed at all.

Copyright 2006 Carol Stack

Housetraining a dog is one of the most difficult parts of owning a dog for many owners and failing to house train a dog is also one of the main reason dogs are abandoned. The following is a list of keys factors used by Josh Schermer of Downtown Pets a New York City dog walking and dog training company.

1. The best way to house train a dog is with a crate.

Crating a dog while also increasing it’s daily walks provides the best example of home and bathroom to the dog.

2. A dog must earn it’s freedom from the crate.

When you wake up in the morning take your dog out immediately for a bathroom break. If it goes it can be out of the crate for a short period of time. If it doesn’t go then you need to put it back in the crate, feed it and then take it out again. This must be the routine in the beginning of housetraining and your dog must earn it’s freedom.

3. How long can this freedom last for?

Start on the short side with thirty minutes to an hour BUT you also must keep your dog within viewing distance during this time. Close the doors to the area you’re in and / or keep your dog on a lead too. As your dog proves an ability to not go in the house you can increase this free time out of the crate.

4. How long should a dog be “in” a crate? As a rule a dog should not be in a crate more than five hours unless it’s during the time you go to sleep at night where they will be in there all night.

5. Can I crate an adolescent puppy?

Yes you can but keep in mind that a puppy will likely need to go to the bathroom a frequency in respect to it’s age. So a two month old puppy will need to go every two hours and so on.

6. Why is my dog going # 1 in the crate?

The major reason a dog goes in a crate is because it has been left in there to long. But when it makes a mistake is it only going number one? If it is try and start only giving it water as it leaves the crate to go out for a walk. If after that your dog is still is going number one in the crate it might have a bladder infection and you should make an appointment with your vet. Please make sure to consult your veterinarian before altering your dogs drinking and or eating schedule.

7. Why is my dog going # 2 in the crate.

Your crate might be to big? It should only allow your dog to stretch out and no more. The point of the crate is to not let your dog move away from a #1 or #2 if they go in the crate. If the crate is to big then can move to a side of the mistake.

8. What type of walking schedule should I keep to housetrain my dog?

Start on the heavy side. If your dog is a medium to big dog and over six months you can get away with a walk every five or six hours from waking up in the morning. But if you have a younger puppy and or a smaller dog who is not housetrained you might want to start with a heavier walk load. Keep in mind the majority of these can be bathroom breaks but throw in at least one good cardio walk a day too.

9. Do dogs like crates?

Overall they do and it actually has a calming affect on many dogs. We’ve had many owners who once their dog has become house trained they have taken the door off the crate, put a cover on it and it’s become their dogs own little den (which is how they look at it anyway, like a wolf would).

Lexy is our little Bichon. She is going to be 7 years old in January and is only 12 lbs but runs a very tight ship (in other words, she is in charge).

For the first 5 years, she was a very active dog. She walked every day and enjoyed her time out and about. Then she started to lose her momentum and didn’t care about her daily walks. We didn’t think much about it at first as she was growing up, but as time went on it began to get worse.

We had read about the deterioration of joints concerning the Bichon. My husband Ken and I had always taken care of our Lexy but this situation had us worried.

We took her to the veterinarian and he made suggestions about surgery and possibly a regimen of shots each week and the cost for these things were going to put a dent in our money situation – but we said anything for Lexy to feel better.

I had already been looking through catalogs and on line at products that claimed to relieve joint pain and could give Lexy a new lease on life. We said we should try something. What could it hurt because at this time we were carrying Lexy to go up and down stairs and to get up and down on furniture. She moaned with every move and all she wanted to do was lie down (and that was even hard).

We tried a product called Joint Care 2 Advanced with MSM from Doctors Foster & Smith for moderate to severe arthritic conditions for dogs and cats and is available on line at www.DrsFosterSmith.com or through their catalog. Within two weeks, we saw a return of Lexy’s agility. She began to walk and play again like her old self! I even think Lexy was aware of the improvement. She was happy!

Lexy has now given us all the joy we experienced before and more. She has us laughing at her antics again. Even our vet could not believe the difference.

If you have a dog experiencing the same problems as Lexy had, give this a try and hopefully you will get the same results.

We along with our friends and family cannot believe the difference it has made for our Lexy – she is back to her old (new) self again!

Having a saltwater aquarium can be fun and rewarding or can be upsetting if a person lacks knowledge on the proper and right ways of taking care of fish especially in the saltwater aquarium.

Setting up one requires some equipment to be used for the success of your saltwater aquarium. Filters and air pump are some of the most important facilities. Some decorations can be added such as sand and gravels, which sometimes varies in different colors. You can also include plastic or real plants, castle or miniatures ship and other fancy decorations in the aquarium, but just be very careful that it won’t clutter inside. Light is also essential in saltwater aquarium for the enhancement of the color of the aquarium and especially the fishes survival.

Saltwater aquarium requires three types of filtration. One is the Biological filtration, which involves the removal of the bacteria, which is often created by the fish on its activities, and processes that it undergoes inside the tank. Second, the chemical filtration that is more on the removing of the discoloration and chemicals on the water that harms the fish inside the tank. Third, is the mechanical filtration, which deals more with the removal of the visible materials floating on the aquarium such as uneaten fish foods, wastes of the fishes and other squanders floating or at the bottom of the saltwater aquarium, and this job is commonly done by the net.

There are many considerations regarding the proper ways in keeping the fish alive in a saltwater aquarium, unlike freshwater aquariums; saltwater aquarium is more difficult to set up. One very good example is mixing saltwater. We must remember that water evaporates while the salt is left, which means that the salinity of the water on the tank always varies, which can cause harm especially on the fishes inside the aquarium. A hydrometer may help you track the salinity of the water and add some salt to get the right salinity content of the water.

Beginners can set up their saltwater aquarium depending on what they like. You can just put fish only in the aquarium, or fish with full reef ambience, or whatever design you want, as long as it you make sure that the fish inside the aquarium would be able to survive.

Experienced aquarists and experts say that we must always find the perfect place for the aquarium in the house. If the location of your saltwater aquarium is always struck by sunlight, it may result to changes on the temperature of the water on the tank and would produce more algae due to the sun and its UV rays, which may harm your fish inside the aquarium.

Cats are the most popular pets in the United States. According to the latest version of the U.S. Pet Ownership & Demographics Sourcebook (2002 Edition) there were almost 70 Million pet cats in the United States. Why are cats so popular? There are as many answers to this question as there are cat owners, but the low health risks cats pose to their owners is certainly near the top of this list. Even though the potential health risks cats pose to people are small, it is important that cat owners are aware of these risks and understand how to reduce them.

The majority of all risks stemming from cat ownership are associated with the cat litter box and/or cat feces. There are two categories of risks. The first category contains health risks posed by bacteria and parasites to both cat owners and their cats. The second category contains injuries resulting from an automatic litter box or self cleaning litter box.

Primarily the health problems experienced by cat owners or their cats come from the first category and the most significant of these risks is called Toxoplasmosis. Toxoplasmosis is an infection caused by a tiny parasite called Toxoplasma gondii which can be found in raw or undercooked meat, unwashed fruits and vegetables, dirty cat litter boxes and outdoor soil where cat feces can be found. According to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) more than 60 million people in the United States may be infected with the Toxoplasma parasite(1). Fortunately, very few people ever experience any symptoms because a healthy person’s immune system usually keeps the parasite from causing illness. However, pregnant women and individuals who have compromised immune systems, such as individuals infected with the HIV virus, are at risk and should take precautions to avoid being infected by the parasite. For people in this group a Toxoplasma infection could cause serious health !

problems to the individual or to a pregnant woman’s unborn child.

Again, most of the 60 million plus American’s infected with Toxoplasmosis parasite will never experience any symptoms. Most of those who do experience symptoms will simply think they have the Flu as the most common symptoms include swollen glands, fever, headache, muscle pain, or a stiff neck. For those in the high risk group, Toxoplasmosis can cause damage to the brain, eyes and internal organs. According to the US Food and Drug Administration, children born with Toxoplasma gondii can suffer from hearing loss, mental retardation, and blindness with some children developing brain or eye problems years after birth(2). The CDC estimates that 400-4000 fetuses are infected with the Toxoplasma gondii parasite each year and as many as 80 infants die from Toxoplasmosis annually(2).

So how does an individual contract Toxoplasmosis? A Toxoplasmosis infection is caused by ingesting the Toxoplasma gondi parasite. Most cat owners are infected with the parasite by accidentally ingesting infected cat feces. This happens when a person touches their mouth after handling a cat litter box, working in a garden or sand box or touching anything that has come in contact with cat feces(3).

People in the high risk group may wonder whether or not they should give up their cat to avoid infection. According to the CDC, it is not necessary for cat lovers to give up their cats, but it is important for them to protect themselves from infections. The USFDA makes the following recommendations for avoiding infections(2):

1) If possible, have someone else change the litter box. If you have to clean it, wear disposable gloves and wash your hands thoroughly with soap and warm water afterwards.

2) Change the litter box daily. The parasite doesn’t become infectious until one to five days after the feces are deposited in the litter box.

3) Wear gloves when gardening in a garden or handling sand from a sandbox because cats may have excreted feces in them. Be sure to wash your hands with soap and warm water afterwards.

4) Cover outdoor sandboxes to prevent cats from using them as litter boxes.

5) Feed your cat commercial dry or canned food. Never feed your cat raw meat because it can be a source of the Toxoplasmosis gondii parasite.

6) Keep indoor cats indoors. Be especially cautious if you bring outdoor cats indoors.

7) Avoid stray cats, especially kittens.
Don’t get a new cat while you’re pregnant.

Safer Child, Inc. makes the following additional recommendations(4):

1) Have your veterinarian test your cat for the Toxoplasmosis parasite. If you cat is infected, you may want to consider having someone else keep your cat during your pregnancy.

2) Keep sandboxes covered to prevent cats from using the sandbox as a litter box.

3) Be aware of neighborhood sandboxes as the parasite can be brought home on shoes, clothing and toys.

Similar to Toxoplasmosis, Escherichia coli (commonly called E. coli) can infect humans thru contact with feline fecal material, although the primary means of infection is thru ingestion or raw or undercooked meats. E. Coli is a bacterium commonly found in the intestinal tract of humans and animals. Almost all strains of the bacteria are harmless. However a few strains can produce powerful toxins and cause severe illness, especially in children under 5 years of age(5). Symptoms usually include diarrhea and abdominal cramps. In children under 5, 2%-7% of E. coli cases can cause kidney failure. Fortunately, E. coli is easy to prevent. Using the preventative measures, outlined above for Toxoplasmosis will greatly reduce the risks of you or your children contracting an E. coli infection.

In addition to these human risks, there are a few health risks cat litter boxes actually pose to cats that cat owners should be aware of. Just as a dirty litter box poses health risks to humans, cats are equally at risk if forced to use a dirty litter box. Since cats stay clean by licking themselves, allowing a cat’s litter box to get too dirty can cause infections when a cat cleans it’s paws after using the dirty litter box. The most common infection is a urinary tract infection, and although this type of infection is rarely fatal it can be very uncomfortable for your cat and will most likely require treatment by your veterinarian.

Finally, a lesser-known health risk to cats is actually caused by cat litter itself. What many cat owners do not realize is that some types of cat litter can be harmful or even fatal to their cat. Both clumping and non-clumping litters pose health problems to cats. Clumping cat litters are probably the most popular type of cat litter because of their convenience, hygienic qualities and the fact that clumping litters are required for use in self-cleaning litter boxes. Unfortunately, some clumping litters can be harmful to cats. Clay based clumping litters can contain the mineral sodium bentonite, which can be harmful or fatal to your cat. It is best to avoid using clay based cat litters, especially with kittens. Wheat or corn based clumping litters such as Swheat Scoop, World’s Best Cat Litter and Littermaid cat litter work very well and are non-toxic(6).

By their very nature, non-clumping litters do not absorb and isolate a cat’s urine or feces like clumping litters do. As a result, it is much harder to keep your cat’s litter box clean when using non-clumping litter. When using non-clumping litter it is important to frequently clean and disinfect the litter box itself to reduce the chance of bacterial buildups that can cause urinary or other infections in your cat.

The second category of health risks covers injuries caused by an automatic litter box or self cleaning litter box. Occurrences of this type of injury are rare, but they can happen. An automatic or self cleaning litter box does just what it’s name implies. Usually between 10-15 minutes after a cat uses the litter box, the litter box automatically cleans itself by “sweeping” or “raking” the cat waste into a sealed compartment or bag. For cat owners, injuries can occur if a small child or toddler plays with the automatic litter box during the cleaning cycle. All major brands of automatic litter boxes contain sensors to prevent the cleaning mechanism from activating when a cat or other foreign object is inside the box. However, children can still be injured if they put their hand inside the cleaning mechanism in such a manner as to avoid the sensors.

Although these types of injuries are very rare it is best to take precautions. Placing the litter box in a location where your cat can get to it but small children can’t is an easy method. This is good advice for any litter box as this is the best way to keep children from contracting one of the illnesses described earlier in this article. If you can’t keep the automatic litter box out of a child’s reach then it is best to put the litter box inside a litter box cover. There are many types of covers and all of them will help prevent a child from reaching the litter box and the cleaning mechanism. A final option is to unplug the litter box or put it into a “manual operation” mode. Both of these options will require the cat owner to start the cleaning cycle whenever necessary. Although this reduces some of the convenience of an automatic litter box it certainly removes the danger to children.

Automatic or self cleaning litter boxes are completely safe for almost all cats. However, most manufacturers recommend that the litter box be used in “manual operation” mode for cats under 5 lbs. Cats under 5 lbs many not be large enough to activate the sensors and the cleaning mechanism could cause injury. Since most adult cats weigh over 5 lbs, it is only necessary to use the “manual operation” mode until kittens grow to 5 lbs.

This article is not intended to dissuade anyone from owning a cat. 70 Million cat owners can’t be wrong; cats make great pets! So, if you already own a cat or are thinking of becoming a cat owner it simply makes good sense to be aware of the health risks associated with cat ownership. Understanding the risks can definately increase the enjoyment of cat ownership.

(1)Toxoplasmosis Fact Sheet; http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dpd/parasites/toxoplasmosis/factsht_toxoplasmosis.htm

(2) While You’re Pregnant – USFDA

http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~pregnant/whiltoxo.html

(3) Toxoplasmosis – An important Message for Cat Owners; http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dpd/parasites/toxoplasmosis/toxoplasmosis_brochure_8.2004.pdf

(4) Safer Child, Inc.;

http://www.saferchild.org/pets&.htm

(5) Escherichia coli O157:H7 Fact Sheet;

http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dbmd/diseaseinfo/escherichiacoli_g.htm

(6) Stanford Cat Network’s – Guide to Caring for Your Adopted Cat or Kitten;

http://www.stanford.edu/group/CATNET/articles/careguide.html#litter

http://www.stanford.edu/group/CATNET/articles/careguide.html#litter

Check out our other articles at http://www.litterboxesandmore.com

Separation anxiety, also known in the dog training world as owner absent misbehavior, is one of the most frequently encountered problems in the world of dog training.

Separation anxiety can manifest itself in many different ways, including chewing, destroying the owner’s property, excessive barking, self destructive behavior and inappropriate urination and defecation.

Shih Tzu suffering from separation anxiety often whine, bark, cry, howl, dig, chew and scratch at the door the entire time their family members are away. Well meaning owners often unwittingly encourage this misbehavior by rushing home to reassure the shih tzu, but it is important for the well being of both shih tzu and owner that the shih tzu learn to deal with extended periods of separation.

How the owner leaves the house can often contribute to separation anxiety issues. A long and drawn out period of farewell can make matters worse by making the shih tzu feel even more isolated when the owner finally leaves. These long types of farewells can get the shih tzu excited, and then leave him with lots of excess energy and no way to work it off. These excited, isolated shih tzu often work off their excess energy in the most destructive of ways, such as chewing up a favorite rug or piece of furniture.

Excess energy is often mistaken for separation anxiety, since results are often the same. If you think that excess amounts of energy may be the problem, try giving your more exercise to see if that eliminates the problem.

If separation anxiety is truly the problem, it is important to address the root causes of that anxiety. In order to prevent separation anxiety from occurring, it is important for the shih tzu to feel happy, safe, secure and comfortable while the owner is away for the day. It is important, for instance, to give the shih tzu plenty of things to keep it busy while you are away. This means providing it with lots of toys, such as balls or chew toys. A pet companion is often effective at relieving separation anxiety as well. Giving the shih tzu a playmate, such as another dog or a cat, is a great way for busy pet parents and pets alike to cope with the stress of being left alone.

Setting aside scheduled play times, during which the shih tzu is given your undivided attention, is another great way to alleviate boredom and separation anxiety. Playing with the shih tzu, and providing it with sufficient attention and exercise, is a proven way to avoid a stressed and anxious shih tzu. A happy shih tzu that has been well exercised and well conditioned will generally sleep the day away happily and patiently wait for the return of its owner. It is important to schedule one of these daily play sessions before you leave the house each day. It is important to give the shih tzu a few minutes to settle down after playtime before you leave.

For shih tzu that are already experiencing separation anxiety and associated misbehaviors, it is important to get him accustomed to your leaving gradually. Be sure to practice leaving and returning at irregular intervals, several times during the day. Doing so will get your shih tzu accustomed to your deparartures and help him realize that you are not leaving him forever. Shih tzu that have been previously lost, or those that have been surrendered to shelters and readopted, often have the worst problems with separation anxiety. Part of treating this problem is teaching the shih tzu that your leaving is not permanent.

One of the delightful things about life in a rural community is our collective love of animals, both domestic and wild. It is that love that makes us vulnerable when bad things happen to these animals, and such tragedies are becoming increasingly common as “wilderness” and “civilization” collide.

In April of last year, a neighbor asked us if we’d seen their cat, who’d been missing for several days at the time. We hadn’t. Mysterious and sad as this was, when one of our cats went missing, 3½ weeks later, I absolutely didn’t make a connection.

Our neighbors were very supportive; many, upon seeing our “Missing Cat” fliers, called with encouragement, suggestions, and possible sightings.

As I made the rounds with the third revision of fliers (first just “Missing Cat”, then “Missing Cat, REWARD”, then “Missing Cat, REWARD”, much bigger) I noticed something chilling—a new “Missing Cat” flier…a third missing cat.

With the possibility of a predator, it was time to start taking our cats in at night. (No small task when you have several.) One didn’t want to come, ran and disappeared into the darkness, and was never seen again. Our “stealth predator” must have been hiding in the shadows, waiting.

I decided to call the phone number on the new “Missing Cat” flier and compare notes. The details of the disappearances—four cats from three families—were strikingly similar. All were pampered indoor-outdoor pets; they were largely timid cats, unlikely to approach a stranger; all disappeared without a trace. It had to be a wild animal predator.

As I discussed the matter with County Animal Control, one suspect rose to the top of the list—Canis latrans—coyote. (We’ll never know for sure, but certain details—such as the number of victims over a short time and in a small area—suggest coyote rather than mountain lion. Another clue: shortly before the first disappearance, a neighbor I had just met told me she’d seen a baby coyote run through our backyard.)

For 13 years, we had lived at peace with our wild animal neighbors, and this rocked my sense of security.

The consolation—if there is any—is that, compared to a car accident, dog attack, or abduction by an evil person, death by coyote is quick and, as far as we know, relatively free of suffering. Coyotes kill to eat, and they do it efficiently. Still, it is heartbreaking to lose a beloved pet, and it is our responsibility to take care of them.

So I did some research to see what we could do to protect ourselves and our pets. Unfortunately, coyotes are difficult to eradicate. Trapping and relocation are not advised, as any young coyotes orphaned by this process will seek easy prey (e.g., our pets). This is very likely what happened in my neighborhood.

The good news is that coyotes rarely attack people, and when they do, it’s not in the manner of a vicious dog, but rather a bite-and-run kind of thing. Coyotes can be frightened, if you see them. Shake a noisemaker (I keep a tea tin full of hardware by the front door) or throw things at them. Fire a SuperSoaker (high-powered toy water gun) filled with water or vinegar at them.

We rarely see them, however, as they tend to be nocturnal. The key is to eliminate all that attracts coyotes, mainly food. Coyotes are generalists, meaning they’ll eat just about anything. With that in mind:

 Keep your cats and small dogs indoors at night; your medium and large dogs, too. Coyotes hunting in packs can take down a fairly big animal.

 Rabbits, chickens, etc. that are kept outdoors need protection. That means strong fencing with a small enclosure inside of it where they can hide.

 Don’t let your pets’ food become coyote bait. Your vet will agree that cats are best fed indoors, and dogs should be fed only what they will eat all at once, with no leftovers.

 Restrict the use of birdseed. Get rid of all squirrel, deer, and other wildlife feed; any naturalist will tell you they’re a bad idea anyway, for reasons I won’t go into here.

 Put garden compost in enclosed bins, and gather your ripe fruits and vegetables immediately.

 Take the bells off your cats. The same bells that alert birds to your cats’ presence also betray their whereabouts to coyotes. (Once you’ve eliminated the birdseed, you’ll have fewer birds within your cats’ reach, anyway.)

 Besides food, coyotes are attracted to potential partners. An unneutered male dog will be attracted to a female coyote; a male coyote will be attracted to an unspayed female dog; both scenarios spell trouble. Spay and neuter your pets.

 Mothballs and ammonia around your property may repel coyotes, as will a motion-sensitive light.

 Consider a fence. It will need to be at least six feet tall and extending six inches below ground. In my research I discovered something called a “roll fence,” which has—as you might have guessed—a rolling piece at the top. This design keeps your cats from climbing out, or any uninvited guests from climbing in. As they try to grasp the top bar, it rolls. The wild critters stay out, the tame ones in, and peace reigns once more.

Our best bet is to make those predators feel so unwelcome that they’ll pack up their families and move back to the boonies. Neighbors working together can accomplish this goal.

All puppies and dogs need some form of training. What’s so good about Reward Training and why would we choose to Reward Train our dog or puppy?

Reward Training uses the principles of Operant Conditioning, specifically Positive Reinforcement. Positive Reinforcement is where we give a reward to increase or maintain behavior.

Any voluntary behavior which has been increased or maintained has, at some point, been reinforced. Without reinforcement, that voluntary behavior will eventually stop happening. That’s fine if it’s a behavior you don’t want, but if it’s a behavior you do want then Reward Training is important to reinforce any good behavior you want to see more of.

Reward Training is also fun for both dog and owner, resulting in a deeply bonded relationship based on trust and respect. If you want a dog who behaves out of fear, then Reward Training won’t work very well for you. There is a difference between respect and fear.

Reward Training puts you in charge of the good things in life, and gives you opportunities to hand them out frequently. Dogs learn that they can’t just take what they want, they need to work as a team with you. Owners learn pretty much the same thing, but from a position of leadership.

The most common form of Reward Training these days is known as Clicker Training. Clicker Training is a training method that uses a sound to ‘mark’ good behavior, then a reward is given. The sound says to the dog “Yes! What you did right then is what I want you to repeat! Here is your reward.” If you are interested in Reward Training, then finding a clicker training class is probably the easiest way to learn. There are also many good books on Clicker Training and Reward Training for dogs and puppies.

The Boston Terrier is one of the few breeds of dog that America can claim as its own. Around 1870, Robert C. Hooper of Boston purchased Hooper’s Judge, a cross between an English Bulldog and an English White Terrier. Hooper’s Judge was bred with a smaller female, and that litter bred with French bulldogs, providing the beginnings of the Boston Terrier, America’s first non-hunting dog. Though originally bred for dog fighting, Boston Terriers are no longer used for that purpose and the aggressive traits have been bred out of the breed.

Also know as the Boston Bull, Boston Terriers are compact, muscular dogs with short, wide muzzles, dark, large round eyes, short tails and pointy erect ears. Their short coats come in black and white or brown and white and are easy to groom. Some breeders have tried selling all white Boston Terriers as rare. However, an all white coloring generally indicates a genetic weakness, making them more prone to health problems. Though Boston Terriers do shed, it is not excessive and with regular brushing, the shedding is easy to manage. Baths are only given when necessary.

With the proper care, Boston Terriers can live 15 years or longer, but usually average about 13 years. Boston Terriers will grow to an average of 15 to 17 inches in height and 10 to 25 pounds in weight. Their smaller size makes them suitable for all types of living environments including apartments. Boston Terriers do need regular sessions of walking and playtime, and do not require large amounts of space for their exercise. They are sociable and friendly dogs that are described as intelligent and energetic. Boston Terriers make good family pets and companions and are generally good around children and other pets. They make fair watchdogs; some Boston Terriers will bark only when necessary and others will never bark.

Boston Terriers are prone to breathing problems, due to their short snouts. Some of them will snore when sleeping, which can be a sign of a more serious medical condition, but it can be corrected with surgery. Exercise caution when out in excessive heat and humidity with a Boston Terrier, as they are more prone to heat exhaustion due to their short snouts. Boston Terriers are more likely to experience problems with heart and skin tumors and are more likely to suffer eye injuries due to their prominent eyes.

There is a website that has great information on Boston Terriers and most other breeds of dogs. It has details that pertain to a dog breeds health, grooming, living conditions, best food choices and more, the website is called: Dog And Cat Facts, and can be found at this url:

http://www.dogandcatfacts.com

By Robert W. Benjamin

Copyright © 2006

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